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  • Upgrade: Rear power socket

    I have a dual battery setup but rather than replace the wiring to the rear power socket I wanted to run another one directly from the aux battery.

    I was thinking of using a Merit plug as they appear to be more robust than a cigarette plug.

    Should i put an inline fuse in? I'm going to be running a fridge/freezer.

    What amp fuse should I use?

    Thanks.

  • #2
    I have put in a second battery and I have also rerun the cable from the aux battery to the rear socket..

    ..I havent put a fuse in yet as the fridge cable has a fuse but I will be putting in a multi fuse panel for other additions to the aux battery soon and will then fuse the fridge..

    ..Not sue on the rating yet...havent looked that far.
    2005 VX Turbo Diesel + a heap of add-ons.

    Comment


    • #3
      I've been trying to decide where to put a fuseblock to get easy access to it and to keep it neat and tidy.

      Was thinking of under the cover under the right hand side rear door.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah I think I know where you are talking about. Might be a good spot. Anywhere you can easily get access and also have room for additions.
        2005 VX Turbo Diesel + a heap of add-ons.

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        • #5
          Whilst I have a 95 series, the principles are the same.

          I used a merit socket also as you mentioed. A lot more robust that a cig lighter plug/socket, and have never had it vibrate loose. I did also install a cig lighter socket as well off the same wiring. Merrit for the fridge, cig ligheter for the fluro in camp.

          From the battery, I go to a fuse block in the engine bay (From Jaycar, uses inline blade fuses).

          From this I ran dual 6mm cable - pos and neg to the rear of the vehicle. (6mm dia of metal, not including the insulation on the cable - a trap for young players). This gives me the minimum voltage drop. (A fuse or fuse block should be a close to the battery as possible to reduce shorts/ fire risk).

          Other accessories like the cig lighter sockets inside the vehicle (used to run the GPS/PDA and to charge camera's etc), and the UHF radio were wired to the fuse block as wel.

          I have seen it done where there was a fuse block in the jack recess in the rear. I'm not sure about the 120 series, but the 95 series jack is a waste of time one you have any lift. It's just too short, so a taller bottle jack is required as a minimum anyway. That leaves the jack recess spare/empty as the replacement wont fit there.

          Hope this helps ...........

          John
          Ex 95 and 79 series owner, now FJ Cruiser owner.

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          • #6
            Thanks John,

            I couldn't find an blade fusebox at Jaycar. I've been looking for one for a couple of weeks now. Can only find the blocks that use the glass type fuses.

            The jack housing is a good idea. I'll have to figure out how to get the cable to that side of the vehicle. I was planning on it being on the other side.

            Will check this evening.

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            • #7
              Aaron,

              The blade holders are CAT. NO. SZ2045 on Jaycars website.

              Marty
              2002 VX

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              • #8
                That's just what I've been looking for. Thanks Marty.

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                • #9
                  This one is nice. Pity about the price! $50



                  ...A great feature of this distribution block is the 3 digit LED voltage display, so you can keep an eye on your battery's condition...
                  2005 VX Turbo Diesel + a heap of add-ons.

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                  • #10
                    That is a nice fuse box.

                    Is it better to run the pos and neg from the battery all the way (dual cables) rather than get the earth from the chassis at the rear?

                    I've heard this mentioned previously. Can someone confirm that please?

                    Thanks.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      did this in a mates surf, must do my prado one day too...
                      have a look at the notes on what i did with the stereo/uhf....

                      http://users.tpg.com.au/burston4/dual+battery.pdf

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                      • #12
                        oh and 6mm cable is 6mm Cross Sectional Area of the conductor, not diameter....

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                        • #13
                          I agree,
                          Run pos and neg from the battery. You can also have problems getting a good negative when connecting to the bodywork
                          GXL, Petrol, 5Sp Auto, BFG ATs, OME Suspension, ARB Airlockers front and Rear, Barret 2050 HF radio and Autotune, GME 4400 UHF, Outback Drawers and cargo barrier, ARB colour coded steel bullbar and K&N steel rear step, roofrack, dual batteries, recovery gear, roof rack bag etc

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by playdo
                            I agree,
                            Run pos and neg from the battery. You can also have problems getting a good negative when connecting to the bodywork
                            Interesting.....I will have to go and check out my setup. I have only run the +ve and have taken the negative from the body.

                            Alos my fridge cuts out at 11.5V and my cable is probably only 6mm in total. I imagine if there is enough of a voltage drop the fridge will cut out earlier than when the battery actually reaches 11.5V.

                            Learn something every day.
                            2005 VX Turbo Diesel + a heap of add-ons.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks for the replies.

                              I'm going to be using cable from Jaycar rated at 56amps.
                              I've read other posts from people using that cable without issue.

                              Comment

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