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  • Second Battery Fault

    Hi all, just wondering if anyone could help me out. I'm not that great with solving electrical issues hence this post. My dual battery system was already installed on my 2007 GXL when i bought it 2 1/2 years ago, whilst i only run a second fridge off it when we go camping it seems to be dying too quick. The advice i have received thus far is varied, 110 amp hour battery, 40l waeco fridge- everyone has told me the basic rule of thumb is on average the fridge will draw approx 2 amps hour so it should give me approx 50 hours of battery without charging/driving. The problem i have is that the battery is dead after about 10 hours so the diesel generator (Prado) needs to be run for a few hours to keep it charged. I have had the second battery "load tested" and all says the battery is ok, so my question is what are the best methods to DIY this myself. The way i see it a. the fridge draws more than the suggested 2 amps b. the battery is stuffed or c. the dual battery system doesnt work weel enough. The dual battery system is one ive never heard of its called "megatronics". Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers

  • #2
    1. How was the battery load tested? It sounds like the battery is knackered based on my own experience where my 130Ah battery lasted only 8 hours. It was properly load tested with a constant current draw and timed
    2. You might need a voltage booster diode for the diesel Prado to up the voltage on the alternator (PM LeighW)

    Comment


    • #3
      Hmmm not really enough information. How much charge is in the battery? Agree you probably need the LeighW diode if the megatronics is an isolator system. What size wire is running from the battery to the fridge? You may be losing a lot of Vs without even using it. As for the fridge it depends how full it is, what temperature it is set to, how many times it is opened, how hot it is in the car. Does the fridge have a low voltage cutout and what is it set at, and so on.

      The other thing to keep in mind is if you have a fully charged 110AH battery you probably only get 50 or 60AH out of it without damaging the battery by taking it too low.

      The fridge will probably draw about 4A and run for 20 to 25 minutes per hour on average if it is reasonably full and set to 0C. So somewhere between 25 and 40AH per day. Again depends on how hot it all is. I have some readings from my NL 50L weekender somewhere on here and I think it was about 16AH minimum to about 28 maximum depending on rainy day versus red hot day.

      So I would think that you might have a couple of issues, the battery is probably not as fresh as it could be, you are probably not feeding it enough volts to keep it fully charged and you may be losing some voltage in the cabling.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

      Comment


      • #4
        Try giving the battery a good boost charge...
        I was having problems similar to yours and I found my battery was constantly flat...
        Whenever I go away I charge both my batteries overnight with my 20amp multistage charger and I haven't had a problem since.
        Daily driving for a few hours whilst I'm away is plenty to keep to battery topped up... And that's running a 78ltr ARB fridge.
        Quite often I take my charger with me if I'm away for more than a few days so I can boost charge them overnight if I'm near a power source.
        I used to have a lot of dramas with this kind of stuff but now I take a proactive approach and I haven't had a problem.
        HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
        MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

        Comment


        • #5
          maybe also check the battery type, i recently discovered i wasnt giving my battery enough charge, it is a calcium type so it needed a higher input that the charger i had wasnt providing

          Comment


          • #6
            mjrandom, last time i volt tested the battery i think it was about 13.5v and the reading from the anderson plug and fridge plug was the same, have never used the anderson plug and fridge plug at the same time but will be rolling out the new campertrailer this long weekend here in Perth to see how it goes. As for the fridge i usually run it at 2C and keep it as full as possible as i was told this helps the fridge out. Do you have any advice on testing how much the fridge is drawing?
            Cheers

            Comment


            • #7
              The only way to test the capacity of the battery is to remove it from the car, charge it up using a multi-stage charger, then discharge it using the current the manufacturer tested the battery at.

              My crude method was to run the fridge off the battery and record the voltage periodically. You can then gauge roughly what the capacity is. If you are still only getting 10 hours from the battery, then it is time to replace it.
              amts
              Ninja Poster.
              Last edited by amts; 31-05-2013, 03:29 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                I tend to agree with mjrandom in regards to the fridge drawing 4 amps while running. The current draw will increase as the battery voltage decreases and this is why volt drop can become an issue. My 40l engel in my rig will run for about 14 hrs in 40c weather until the batt (120AH) drops down to about 12.9v which is about as low as I generally let it go (have to look after these expensive batteries!!)

                Greenie
                White 150 GX, TJM t13, TJM scrub bars steps, TJM underbelly protection, Kaymar rear bar, matt black speedy avalanches with mickey T ATZ' P3s, ARB BP 51 suspension, Heat exchange shower, Safari snorkel, on board air tank, custom rear drawers, wind cheeta rack, custom maxtrax mounts, in dash ozi explorer, cargo barrier and more!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I use one of these

                  http://www.powerwerx.com/digital-met...owerpoles.html

                  To keep an eye on current draw from the fridge. 13.5V worries me a bit if that is the reading with engine off and battery settled for a few hours. Most I have seen with a full battery is about 13V. Can you trust your multimeter? Andrew as usual is correct, best way to test is to charge with an AC smart charger then load it up until it drops to whatever the manufacturer says is the minimum voltage (this varies so google battery make and model).

                  This is from ABR Sidewinder's site and gives you an idea of state of charge

                  http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page167aaaa.html

                  Likely the battery manufacturer won't be happy if the battery drops below 12.2V. About 50% charge, so 55AH in your case. Fridge at 0C should run 2 full days at the moment. Less than that and the battery is on the way out. If you get the meter you can see exactly how many AH have been delivered.

                  Let the battery settle without charge or load for an hour or two then check voltages at each outlet and then with the fridge running.

                  Is the battery an AGM? I guess it is and you will need a booster diode to bump the alternator output to get a full charge.

                  I will drop a couple of threads here that will give you some more info when I get home, otherwise search PradoPoint+voltage+booster in google bad also Redarc isolator. Lots of good words. Is yours a D4D as well?

                  Michael
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    While the "diode" trick does work I think you just cant go past a DC-DC charger....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by sandman View Post
                      While the "diode" trick does work I think you just cant go past a DC-DC charger....
                      Perfect if you're prepared to wait all day with your diesel genny running to charge your batteries...
                      [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The is some merit in the DC-DC chargers, I went looking for a system like this 10 years ago, but industry had not caught up with my imagination back then.

                        The DC-DC chargers can whack high current fast charge from a low current source. It boosts the voltage to +15v and thus can make the most potential out of your battery limited storage system. Normal car alternators will 'never' charge a battery to it's full potential as the voltage is just not high enough to reach a fully charged state, leaving most batteries only 90%, or even less.

                        If you run a high charge DC-DC charger you can charge your battery fully, making more from your limited space.

                        Plus you can charge a LOT faster than any generator (unless you have a special fast charge one)

                        Used in conjuction with a solar pannel system when the sun is shining and you can almost throw your genny away
                        peril
                        Senior Member
                        Last edited by peril; 01-06-2013, 06:32 PM.
                        2[FONT=Arial Narrow]008 Prado GXL D4D Auto with Prado Pack

                        4x4 History: 2000 Prado GXL 90 Series 1KZ-TE, 1992 4runner 2.8 Motson turbo, 1985 Landcruiser 60 Series 3.9L Diesel, 1985 4Runner 2L 2.4 Diesel later mod. + 2.4T (Factory Turbo), 1982 Hilux 2.2L Diesel in Yellow (callsign 'Yellow Peril') later mod. + 2.4L engine[/FONT]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Guys no need to start the diode vs DCDC charger debate here. OP post what is written on your aux battery so we can see what you are trying to charge. And any specs on the charger.
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yep lot's of hype about DC-DC chargers, installed under the bonnet they don't deliver. Even the install instructions suggest they won't put out full A or V above 55 degrees celcius.
                            [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              OH I didn't suggest NOT to run a diode, presumption there me thinks, perhaps run both and all you can to help. Just pointing out the benifits from a correctly functioning DC-DC charger. Perhaps the industry still hasn't caught up with my imagination, but the theory is sound.
                              peril
                              Senior Member
                              Last edited by peril; 01-06-2013, 06:39 PM.
                              2[FONT=Arial Narrow]008 Prado GXL D4D Auto with Prado Pack

                              4x4 History: 2000 Prado GXL 90 Series 1KZ-TE, 1992 4runner 2.8 Motson turbo, 1985 Landcruiser 60 Series 3.9L Diesel, 1985 4Runner 2L 2.4 Diesel later mod. + 2.4T (Factory Turbo), 1982 Hilux 2.2L Diesel in Yellow (callsign 'Yellow Peril') later mod. + 2.4L engine[/FONT]

                              Comment

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