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  • 2014 Facelift Speaker Upgrade

    Hi All,

    I have a new 150, GXL Facelift.
    I'm not happy with the sound of the speakers, I believe the head unit is capable, as it is the same as used in the Kakadu (I think), but they have crippled it with cr@p speakers.
    So, I was looking at a simple upgrade of the front 6x9's, to a set of Focal or Inifinity..
    BUT, the Infinity set I have my eye on, are 2ohm, I though car stereo's were 4ohm's.

    Any advice? I don't want to spend the coin if they will not work properly.
    I wish I had paid for the JBL upgrade... Live and Learn..
    D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

  • #2
    Either amp them with an amp capable of a 2ohm output or run the focals. Hope you are planning on dynamatting the crap out of those doors. Interested in this thread, I'm not really impressed with the SQ either....
    [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
    TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

    Comment


    • #3
      I installed a set of Focals and dynamatted the doors at Christmas with the intention of leaving the standard head unit. (Mine is a GX though so hardly a premium head unit). Anyhow the standard crap lasted about three days after the speaker install, it just couldn't drive the speakers well enough.

      I added a Pioneer head unit and the sound quality is simply awesome. Had a mate in the car on the weekend and he couldn't believe I wasn't running a sub and amp. The dynamat and Focals were well worth the investment.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah, agree with the head unit in the pre facelift GX is absolute rubbish. My work Hilux had the same head unit. Now has Pioneer head unit running some old Alpine type Rs I had. Want to dynamat the doors in it too, and maybe an amp, but don't know how much longer I will have that particular ute for.
        [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
        TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

        Comment


        • #5
          First rule of thumb in car audio (after 17 years in the industry I like to think I know a little bit lol)... crap in = crap out.

          If you're starting with crap sound processing then you'll never escape it. Change the headunit. It wont cost a great deal extra then speakers and dynamat and all that jazz plus you gain extra volume which equates to more "headroom" and you pick ip some extra features along the way usually dependant upon choice.

          More often than not my customers find that after changing the headunit they have no reason to change speakers.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hey Ran J, have you had much to do with the bit 10 processors? I fully understand what you are saying about the head unit, but the facelift unit is quite user friendly and intergrated into the dash well. I really would prefer to not change out the head unit if possible. Thinking processor into 4ch amp running door speakers in dynamatted doors. Not sure on brands yet, as this is a bit down the list at this stage.
            [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
            TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

            Comment


            • #7
              That's a fair point mate, sometimes changing the headunit is not an option... or people just really like it.

              The bit 10 is good piece of kit. Really depends on what you're after. I recently made a post on another car forum about processors... I'll see if I can dig it up.

              Comment


              • #8
                Found it....
                There are a couple of different ways to approach it mate. Basically only limited by your goals, budget and knowledge.

                First off, you require a four channel convertor (or more, but unnecessary) Two channels for the front speakers and two channels for the rear speakers. The subs will take their feed from the rear channels by splitting your rcas, using the pre out on one of the amps or using a loc with a dedicated sub output.

                Your entry level LOCs are basically isolation transformers and require no power. They simply present the headunit with a 300-3000k ohm impedance instead of the speakers 4 ohm. This drops the power of the headunit significantly and it then outputs it into a level more suitable for the amplifier. When just adding a sub to a system and nothing else... They are perfect. With that said, many of my budget conscious customers use these in full systems when cost is a concern. They come in a couple of different types.

                Full Passive: These are the simplest of all and a four channel is about $40
                AP3044 4 channel hi/lo audio level | Aerpro

                Then you have Partially Active. Not much of an advantage for just a sub but they do allow better quality by feeding the reduced signal through a pre-amp before sending it to the amplifier. Some nicer units will actually provide an automatic trigger wire when it detects a signal. This is useful in cars like the VE where you can play the stereo without the ignition on. The one I've listed below does this.
                APHL4 4 ch. hi / low level converter | Aerpro

                After this, you start to head into your more complex realm... The first thing you will start to notice in the high end units is what they call Signal Summing. The VE does NOT require this at all. In some other cars you cannot take your feed from the headunit. It may be data (digital) or simply two channel with a data connection to the amp. The amp then has multiple outputs for each corner of the car. It will have a seperate output for each tweeter, for each mid driver and each subwoofer. In this instance, all of those outputs have a HPF, LPF or Bandpass filter applied to them inside the amp. Meaning a full range signal cannot be achieved. Nor can you simply grab all the speaker wires and join them together. Kiss the OEM amp good-bye. A LOC capable of signal summing will allow you for example to feed the tweeters, mid and lows and created a single pair of full range outputs. Hope this makes sense lol.
                Here is an entry level Signal Summing Line Output Convertor... you don't need this.
                APU8SUM Hi-lo level signal summing | Aerpro

                Others in the Mid Range level offer Sub control (RUX knob) With this unit, you can run your four inputs into it, then take a feed from your rear inputs, send it to the sub input and have a dedicated sub output on the LOC and if you have look... it has an EQ on it. Other models will allow four channel input converted directly to 6 channel output. Some have the bass controller optional... some include it.
                APHL6EQ 6 ch. hi / low level conevrter | Aerpro
                http://tdj.com.au/firmware/Aerpro/APHL6EQ.pdf

                Here are some more examples...
                Audison bit Ten (considered one of the best. I say it's definetly awesome, but as for the best... it's all personal taste)
                http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/1761...-AccuBASS.html (one of my favourites in regards to bang for buck)
                CL441dsp - Car Audio - OEM Interface - OEM Integration - JL Audio (offers automatic EQ tuning)


                After this.. we go into the full blown sound processor units. These are the bees knees. They allow on the fly tuning from Mobile iOS/Android device, bluetooth, laptop or video output to headunit and then IR remote control. These guys also cost real money... as you can imagine. Additional features often include things like time delay control, bass enhancers, acoustic alignment from left to right and often auto tuning when a microphone is plugged in. Some also offer bluetooth music streaming!

                and... if so inclined... 5.7-7.1 surround sound.

                Audison bit One (I love this for ultra high end vehicles as it accepts fibre optic input.)
                3SIXTY Digital Processors - 3SIXTY.3 - Rockford Fosgate® (Possibly the most feature packed unit at a price)
                Alpine Electronics of Australia (offers quite a bit and not a bad price compared to the rest)

                After this, you can add other options such as active crossovers, line drivers and bass enhancers


                First off... I recommend none of these brands FOR YOUR APPLICATION. I have no idea what you want to achieve, how much you understand and how big your budget is. I simply provided some insight and some examples. You make a wrong purchase... thats on you!

                As for which is the best unit, whoever says that X is the best one because they've got one and it's great... are not helping you. Unless they have the exact same requirements as you, they are not helping. It is merely a suggestion. This forum has many experts in ICE, many wanna-be experts in ICE, many who freely admit they have no clue but offer what they know (which is good) and then you also have your neighbour who has a mate who's brother in-law used such and such and hit 170dB in his Lancer with a Sony Xplod subwoofer.

                Its upto you to decide who is who! haha... good luck and if you have further questions, fire away! You are more than welcome to PM me and I will respond (usually!) but remember, you will only get my opinion. Ask on your thread and you get a lot more opinions. Some good, some not so good. Hopefully the former

                Peace!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sorry for hijacking MDSimpson, I can make a new one if you want, just let me know.

                  So RanJ, I'm really chasing decent SQ but not crazy sound levels. I find the stock speakers lack warmth, and make everything sound a bit tinny. I don't have room for a sub, with draws it really cuts my options. I listen to all kinds of music, from Keith Urban to top 40, so I'm not looking to build a specific system. The wife drives the Prado every day and loves the factory head unit, but also agrees the SQ isn't great.

                  Hoping you can point me in a direction to go with this one. This will be the first sound system I have done to look factory, hasn't used an aftermarket HU, and is for SQ not just loud. I have been away from the car audio scene for a few years, left it behind when I made the move to 4wd. Budget isn't a big concern (within reason) I just want good value and something that will last, not the Sony xplods I had in my first car that lasted 6 mths before the voice coils died.

                  Talking to different people I have been steered towards Polk, Focal and Alpine.
                  [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
                  TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    No problem Andy... HiJack away as long as the subject is the same..

                    RanJ, that is a lot to absorb, I'll need to read it through a few times for it to sink in,

                    Can I assume some Dynamat inside the doors, and some good fronts will be enough for now?

                    Pugaree, Your Focals, are they 2 ohm? Sound OK? Sound Awesome, or made no difference.
                    D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      N
                      Originally posted by MDSimpson View Post
                      No problem Andy... HiJack away as long as the subject is the same..

                      RanJ, that is a lot to absorb, I'll need to read it through a few times for it to sink in,

                      Can I assume some Dynamat inside the doors, and some good fronts will be enough for now?

                      Pugaree, Your Focals, are they 2 ohm? Sound OK? Sound Awesome, or made no difference.
                      Sounds awesome, really thumps when you want it to or produces nice voice clarity for talk back which I also listen to. Not sure about the impedance, will check for you. I have only done the front doors with the dynamat, will do the rear at some stage, not so much for the sound systems sake but to reduce road noise.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I put in some Focal integration 6x9's in the front, Focal 6 1/2" coaxials with tweeters in the rear and 2 x 12" Focal subs powered by 2 Focal amps installed under each seat and it sounds awesome. I have kept the gxl headunit as the sound is good enough for me. BDL Car Stereo in Canberra did the install and were surprised how good the stock unit performed so an upgrade is unlikely.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          So if I've read correct the front speakers are 6x9's?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Pugaree, that's where i'll start too then, fronts and dynamat.
                            I'm eyeing off a set of Infinity Kappa 693.9I 6x9" 3 Way Car Speakers but these are 2ohm, there is a set of Focal R690C which are 4ohm, similar price.

                            Jap-jet, yes 6x9 in the front.. 6.5" in the rear doors.
                            D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              For the best increase in sound quality I would swap to 6-6.5" in the front doors, although a drop in bottom end will be noticed.

                              Andy, have you considered an underseat sub? Many companies make some great ones. Soundstream do an awesome and pioneer make this long narrow one that I've fitted to the front of a drawer system before. It rested between the front of the draws and the rear of the back seats.

                              Comment

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