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Time to focus on replacing some worn suspension components...

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  • Time to focus on replacing some worn suspension components...

    With 390xxx on the clock and some squeaks developing, Im going to focus on getting the suspension back up to par. I'll be using a mixture of rubber and poly for bushes but it's raising some other questions for me.

    I'm currently sitting on a 40/45mm +150 constant load lift using Dobinsons... At this point in time I dont have that weight. I will be swapping my oem nudge bar for a Xrox bar, winch, 20kg of lights and a dual battery system. In the rear there is often passengers in the third row and when there isnt... my toolboxes.

    So... now you know everything else except my suspension. What areas should I be looking at? Swaybar link bushes and seaybar to body bushes are already poly but the rest is factory.

    Also with my lift currently and when the exyra weight is applied, would an adjustable panhard be needed/recommended or perhaps even worthwhile? I havent noticed any lopsided tyrewear yet and I've got about 15,000km on the lift but my tyres do seem to be a hard compound.

  • #2
    Anybody with some suggestions?

    Comment


    • #3
      How big do you want to go? If you are happy around a 40-50mm I don't think you can go wrong with the usual suspects. Give #### a pm.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm happy with the suspension lift. Anything further would be tyre height. Body lift out of the question as I dont think the benefits are there

        Comment


        • #5
          So what are you actually asking here? At that mileage I would go over every suspension bush thoroughly and replace any that looked suspect. I would be looking to use rubber bushes wherever possible, personally I find they isolate any road noise and bumps slightly better than other options. Upper and lower front ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. are others I would check. If your diff is very close to centre of the vehicle I wouldn't worry about an adjustable panhard rod, all it does is centre the diff, it won't cause any major or noticable irregular tyre wear.
          [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
          TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Ranj,
            I highly suggest a thorough inspection of all 4 front ball joints. If they are still originals they may not be far off from a failure (which is dangerous).

            There's also 4 bushings in the front, uppers and lowers, but I wouldn't change them unless you believe they are worn. The lowers are very difficult to diagnose without removal, but if worn they tend to creak during speed bumps or change of direction at slow speed.

            As for the rear 5 links - you'll know when they're stuffed when your vehicle starts floating/wobbling around corners like a boat. The only complete replacement kits are poly. For rubber you'll need to do some digging - Toyota sells bushings for only 1 or 2 of the links, and I think some others can be sourced aftermarket. In case your curious I run aftermarket links which use heim joints one end and poly the other - they're a little more specialised for offroading.

            Forget an adjustable panhard. If you try to correct the diff location you'll just send your prop shaft into the aux tank, which is simply not worth it for a minor alignment issue. If you end up lifting much higher, eg like mine which is 3-4", then the diff location will be bad enough that something should be done.
            glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi RanJ
              As suggested before, upper and lower ball joints would be very high on my list to do, if not been touched. A good Japanese brand, weather it's genuine or 555, would be the only one's to touch

              Have just had the front bushes done in mine. I would recommend getting in done in a shop. As the lower camber bolts are well known to seize in the bush and are a nightmare to remove. Yes it can be done as a diy but as a mobile mechanic you get to know when to fight or run. This job is not a nice laying on your back trying to cut bolt's out. The old girl ended up on the hoist for two day's, with a lot of profanities thrown at it lol. Fitted Superpro rubber bushes, don't like the poly stuff "to hard". Seem pretty good so far.....

              Check the steering rack bushes and tie rods as well.

              Haven't found anything for the rear, but mine aren't that bad.

              It's worth doing if you're looking at keeping it for awhile. Good luck mate Kris
              96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for all the advice guys. Glen, as a question, ive got an adjustable rod here in the shop that I can have... so in your mind, keep it incase I do lift higher but don't put it on u til so?

                The ball joints seem ok but a couple of the wishbone bushes are shagged. So I night just rip all four arms out and replace the bushes and joints. Do they need to be pressed in?

                It's a job I will do myself as I have all the tools here at the shop including a hoist. But I dont have a press.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by RanJ View Post
                  Thanks for all the advice guys. Glen, as a question, ive got an adjustable rod here in the shop that I can have... so in your mind, keep it incase I do lift higher but don't put it on u til so?

                  The ball joints seem ok but a couple of the wishbone bushes are shagged. So I night just rip all four arms out and replace the bushes and joints. Do they need to be pressed in?

                  It's a job I will do myself as I have all the tools here at the shop including a hoist. But I dont have a press.
                  Yeah they need to be pressed out. Have heard guy's using a hacksaw, and cut the bush to push out. Or a gas axe and melt the buggers out. There's a you tube video kickin around with some guy's using the std bottle jack. Wouldn't recommend this as you need to support the lca so you don't bend the bugger. Hope she don't put up too much of a fight
                  96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    RanJ drill the rubber out between the inner and outer bush sleeve, two hacksaw cuts 5mm apart don't go right through the 50mm strip will peel out and bush will fall out -easy, I pressed mine in with a 4 ton bottle jack press you just need a good 50mm tube support for the LCA to let the bush pass through, ,,, just make sure the bush orientation is correct. none of my cam adjuster bolts were siezed even though the alignment shop told me that two were and they couldn't do a alignment
                    2018 GXL 2.8 1GD,

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey Brissy, thats pretty much my extraction method except I cheat and use the air saw.

                      I might look at investing in a press...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I wonder if the old method of two fat thick washers and a threaded rod will pull the new bushes in place?

                        Just ordered new 22mm rear swaybar. New 11mm extended trailing arms, all 5 braided brake hoses and the remainder of the rear bushes.

                        Once thats in, I'll move to the front with a new 27mm swaybar, all control arm bushes, all ball joints and tie rods.

                        Checked the steering rack bushes and they showed no signs of wear and the front diff to body bushes looked in great shape also.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Should be like a new truck after all that
                          96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ranj,
                            You didn't mention the price of the adjustable panhard - if it's for free of course take it and fit it at your leisure. There's no harm in having one unless it has different joints which affects roadworthy (and if that's important to you).

                            I installed a 22mm rear sway bar recently, feels good on road, haven't tested offroad yet. There's a HD front bar as well but standard is already stiff enough IMO.

                            Why extended trailing arms? (and do you mean the lower arms?)
                            glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yeah the plan was always to grab it but shouls I fit now or when I need it? I've gone with when I need it. I ordered the complete bushing kit which does all the arms and panhard rod bushes so Im not going to change the lower trail arms for the extended unless I do lift higher. The rear wheels are sitting about 4mm further forwards then they should be but I think an 11mm extension is going to push them back to far. The next lift will be by tyre size which wont affect the position in the arch. Just the clearance which the extended arms could in fact make worse. So I'm just going to bash in some new bushes to the existing arms and call it quits.

                              Comment

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