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  • #31
    I found it easier to take the wheel off to get to the brake bleed nipple.
    Attach one end of the tube to the brake nipple
    Attach the other end to the lid of the bottle
    Loosen the brake bleeder nipple
    Pump on the brake pedal until the bottle fills up
    Empty the contents of the bottle into another larger collection bottle
    Screw bottle back onto the lid and repeat the brake pumping

    The bleeder kit comes with a magnetic disc which attached to the lid. So you can attach the lid to a metallic surface. I think I put it on the brake disc.
    Always check that there are no air bubbles in the tube. I didn't find any bubbles at all during the procedure using the SCA bleeder kit. Tighten the nipple after fresh fluid comes through.

    Sometimes it is hard to tell when the fresh fluid comes through, especially if you can't suck out all the fluid in the reservoir. In this case, you might want to get 3 plastic vials like these
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-60ml...item4170032428

    1st vial - fresh brake fluid
    2nd vial - old brake fluid from first lot extracted
    3rd vial - "extraction in progress" fluid to use as comparison between old and fresh fluid.

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    • #32
      When flushing the rear brakes on an car with ABS the pump runs and pushes the fluid out. Does anyone know if the pump stops after a certain time or does it keep running until the rear bleed nipples are closed?

      When I change my brake fluid I'm trying to make sure I get the old stuff out of the ABS unit.

      Also, the ABS solenoids can be opperated through Techstream. Is there a need to operate these while bleeding to remove the old fluid?

      Thanks,
      2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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      • #33
        The best flush procedure is done with the help of techstream or equivalent, however, flushing the brakes the old way with the ignition in the on position works very well too. Either way is exceptable.
        [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
        TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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        • #34
          If your worried about that tiny bit of fluid in the ABS and dont have a techstream, do the fluid flush, hit some dirt roads and make the ABS fire/pulse , then do a flush again.
          HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
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          • #35
            Im re-using an old thread so I don't start a new one:
            I flushed my brake fluid 2 months ago with 4 @ 500ml bottles of Nulon Dot 3 brake fluid only to discover this morning that the fluid in the reservoir is quite dark. It took me by surprise and I thought WTF? When bleeding I started at the furthurest wheel to the resevoir and finished with the front driver's side wheel closest to the resevoir. Before I began bleeding I withdrew down to the minimum line level in the resevoir with a clean syringe and plastic tube and topped back up with clean fluid. All bottles were brand new and unopened. I typically let gravity bleed for a couple of minutes per wheel and then pump the brake pedal slowly about 5 times with my hand to help eject any solids then just let gravity bleed until clean fluid drips out. I connect a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple and hold it on with a zip tie to stop it from working loose. I have the tube elevated a few inches from the bleed nipple to create an air pocket at the top of the elevation and then run the tube down Into my container or bucket to catch the drained fluid. I'm very careful never to let air enter back up the nipple. I've always used this method without any probs, but just this once the fluid has darkened in no time whatsoever and it threw me a bit. Everything was sealed properly so cannot blame moisture ingress. I hadn't been off-roading since I changed the fluid so no water crossings were driven. I changed it in my garage on a hot dry day so little moisture was in the air when I did it. And no unusual braking habits from normal to create huge amounts of heat that I'm aware of. Anyone come across this before and found out or suspected what the cause was? I'll no doubt flush the system again within the next weekend or two, but I just found it very odd as its a first for me. The only thing I can maybe possibly put it down to is I replaced my rear brakes and rotors when doing the flush with new Bendix pads and slotted & dimpled RDA rotors. I bedded them in properly & gently but maybe the extra heat created from the new brakes caused it?
            Brett1979
            Avid PP Poster!
            Last edited by Brett1979; 13-02-2017, 06:57 PM.
            2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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            • #36
              Wouldn't be too concerned about it. Bendix Dot 3 brake fluid has a tendency to get dark real quick compared with genuine Toyo stuff.

              If you're really worried, just buy yourself a refractometer or brake fluid tester and you can be pretty certain of the condition of the fluid. Just because its dark, doesn't mean its crap, just like engine oil some get darker sooner than others. All to do with the chemical compostion IMHO.

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              • #37
                Thanks for that. That's good to know. I've previously used Castrol and it stayed clear/light yellow for a long time. It's just that it threw me when the Nulon stuff went dark within 2 months. Thanks very much for your helpful advice. I bled the brakes on my wife's X-Trail with the Nulon Dot 3 on the Saturday just gone in the 44 deg heat we had (I knew Sunday would be hotter so did it on Saturday instead - Sunday we peaked at 48.2 deg). I'll check it again in April so see if it darkened as well. I'll flush mine again just to make sure since it'll only cost $33 for 3 bottles to do so, so no big deal. I'll use the Castrol Dot 3 just to see what it does over time given its stayed clear for much longer every time I've used it in the past. The previous brake fluid that was in the X-Trail was in for 2 years and still looked like it was new. I don't know if Nissan have their own branded brake fluid or not but buying genuine Nissan fluids is dear as poison. Her manual transmission fluid is due (2L worth of NS-2 fluid). It's a CVT transmission so needs special CVT fluid. There are only 2 brands in Australia that are imported from the USA that I could find during extensive online searching to try and get it cheaper. After much consideration I decided I didn't want to risk using another brand incase it screwed with her car. Nissan sell their own NS-2 fluid in 4L bottles for about $130. Doesn't surprise me with some of the things I've hea about gen Nissan fluids & parts before. I just hate it when a highly specialised fluid is required for a car that is difficult to source elsewhere without knowing if it's exactly the same that's required or not and the manufacturer pretty much has you by the balls to buy their product. Don't like it at all.
                Brett1979
                Avid PP Poster!
                Last edited by Brett1979; 14-02-2017, 07:10 PM.
                2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                • #38
                  What about bleeding abs module. Any other ideas or is it just either using a diagnostic tool to open the abs valves, or hitting dirt roads?

                  Also, anyone know the volume of the abs reservoir?

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