DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

[LenGXV6 Member Find all posts View Profile Close LenGXV6]

Ok all, This is just for comment at the moment, Just started the first round of design for a roof rack/basket thingy. At the moment, looking at making it out of ally vice steel.
would welcome any comments on the design, and if you have done them yourself previously, any problem encounted and pics if possible.



NOTE: the cross wire section has not been added, but will sit flush on the bottom rails/supports. also have not included legs yet!!!!!

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

Len I have built a couple over the years. One out of aluminium many years ago and more recently a light weight basket to fit on a friend's Forrester. No real issues just make sure the welding is up to scratch and you control the distortion so the basket sits flat. Make sure you test the wire for the bottom before you go to the trouble of welding it in, ensure it is strong enough for the job because it is only supported at 3 places and you may want to stand in the thing when loading up. You probably want a 5mm or so wire diameter and 50mm mesh. I went a bit light on the Forrester basket but it was ok because it will only see 50kg distributed load and no off road use.

On the subject of the legs for the basket I kept my Jarram Overlander that I used on the 90 series. This rack had integral gutter mount legs. Obviously these were useless on the 120 so I played around with Rhino bars for a while. But the time taken to fit the bars and then the rack was annoying. I wanted to fit separate legs to reduce the time to fit the bars then the rack. The problem with making new mounts is that the mounting points in the roof are different heights and angles.

I ultimately gave up on making some legs and then looked for a fitting kit from a rack supplier. I tried Jarram (available but expensive), TJM wouldn't sell their fitting kit separately and I couldn't get an answer from ECB. ARB on the other hand were quite happy to sell me the fitting kit and I am really happy with it. I don't leave the rack on all the time, just have it for trips away/camping etc so ease of fitting was important. Besides with the rack on the overall vehicle height becomes an issue. Using a fitting kit will save you lots of time and headaches so I recommend that course of action if the budget will tolerate it. That way all you need to do is have the bottom of your rack flat and have a couple of points where you bolt the fitting kit to the rack.

And I recently replaced the wind deflector at the front. Ring around plastic suppliers/signwriters. I picked up a piece of 4mm polycarbonate big enough to do the job for $75. PC cuts easily with a jigsaw and will bend without heat.

Michael

[LenGXV6 Member Find all posts View Profile Close LenGXV6]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

Thanks for the info.

I was thinking more along the lines of doing this as a bolt together rather then weld - have no welding experience or know some one who has.

being ally, it should not be that hard to tap screw threads into ally, and then when happy with the whole set up, loctite the SS bolts into position.

as to the feet, had a look at a friends Tracklander rack, and the feet are realy just two pieces of angle bolted together at the correct height. can not see a problem with making them.

Getting the wire mesh to fit tight just maybe a problem, but one I am willing to work on. Defiantly do not want the mesh to sag under weight.

[jeff s Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close jeff s]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

Hi Len.

I would have reservations with using alloy tube and only using tapped holes and screws to hold it together.
The Tube will not offer much thickness for the screw to get a good purchase, and I would think that with use the screws will just tear out eventually.

The mounts for the rack are not your normal gutter mount from roof racks of old or Nissans. They are tricky little buggers.
For a rack to carry any sort of weight you should use all 6 mounting points, and all will need to be secured tightly. You don't want any movement there or you could do some real damage to the top of your car.

Just a few things to ponder.

I can offer welding of steel, but unfortunately I am not set up for alloy.

Jeff.

[BBB Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BBB]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

......On the subject of the legs for the basket I kept my Jarram Overlander that I used on the 90 series. This rack had integral gutter mount legs. Obviously these were useless on the 120 .......I wanted to fit separate legs to reduce the time to fit the bars then the rack. The problem with making new mounts is that the mounting points in the roof are different heights and angles.

I ultimately gave up on making some legs and then looked for a fitting kit from a rack supplier. I tried Jarram (available but expensive), TJM wouldn't sell their fitting kit separately and I couldn't get an answer from ECB. ARB on the other hand were quite happy to sell me the fitting kit and I am really happy with it.........

Michael

Michael, is the fitting kit you refer to for your Overlander rack? What size is your rack? Do you have any photos of the fitting kit you can post here? I have a 2.1m long Overlander rack previously fitted to a Jackaroo which I am wondering whether could be fitted to a 120 series using this 'fitting kit' you refer to? How much do these suppliers charge for one?

Cheers
Bryan

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

Bryan,

My Overlander is the 'mid' size that was sold many many years ago. No longer available I believe. The rack measures 1450 x 1250 x 125. It was a size that suits us and the cost of a new Jarram or other rack for the 120 was prohibitive. The Overlander came with integral gutter mounts and was first mounted to a (sssh) NL Pajero then our 90 series.



I looked at bolting some angles to the roof mounts so I could use the rack on the 120 but gave up because of the weird angles that the mounts sat. I found that the Overlander roof rack is a little longer than the spacing across the three roof mounts. So after dismissing the other suppliers as per previous post I went to ARB and measured up their standard fitting kit and decided I could make it work. The ARB rack is 1790 long. I was also lucky in the ARB dealer let me (pay) and take the fitting kit but would accept it back if I couldn't make it work. Don't scratch it though.

When I arrived home I fitted the kit to the roof and then checked the measurements and was sure I could make it go together. One thing that is different with my roof rack set up is how I have fitted the rack to the roof. I do not have the rack fitted all the time because of the fuel consumption penalty plus the overall height becomes an issue. Without the rack on the car sits at 2070ish to the top of the roof. Also I do not like the idea of removing the factory clips and installing the roof rack supports into the roof every time I want to use the roof rack. Each time you have a chance of stripping a thread or letting water leak into the car. So I made up aluminium plates that are bolted onto the roof mounts. All sealed and permanent. The ARB sealing rubber that comes with the kit are about 8950% better than the factory and Rhino 'o' ring arrangements. The plates have tapped holes that the roof rack supports bolt onto.



I bolted the ARB kit to the plates and then placed the roof rack on top. The rack extended far enough past the mounts that I could trim the excess length without compromising the strength. All good.



I then marked the cutting lines on the kit.



And cut the kit to suit. This removed the front and rear outer edge where the ARB rack bolts but that would not be an issue for me as I was planning on bolting my Overlander rack where the gutter mounts used to fit and also riveting the front and rear.



The rack and fitting kit are joined and sit in the shed supported by ropes and pulleys. When I need the rack I screw studs into the plates and then back the Prado into the shed and drop the rack onto the plates in the roof. Bolt up using internal tooth style lock washers and cap nuts. On our December camping trip I had a solar panel in the rack and it stayed in place for two weeks. No problems. All nuts and bolts remained tight.



It would be worth your while looking at the position of the roof mounts and then the fitting kit before you decide what to do. I guess the fitting kit is about 1575 ~ 1600 from front to back overall so your Overlander rack will overhang about 300 ish each end. In other words it will be about 375mm further back than my rack. Your rack will sit 150 further back and further forward than the ARB rack if you mount it centrally. While the overhang is unlikely to be a strength problem for the rack I don't know how far back it will sit and you may end up too far back. If you can find someone with an ARB rack you could place yours on top and see how it will fare.

PPers apologies for the long post.

Good luck.

[BBB Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BBB]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

Awesome post, Michael. Thank you so much for that. Very informative. I did not realise the fitting kit involved parralel 'rails' either side. I assumed it would just be 4 or 6 feet. The rails make it an easier option. I don't think the overhang would be a problem with them. Could not quite see the cross section of the rails but assumed they were L shaped angle irons which you just bolt your rack to through one of its crossbars? I also would want the rack quickly removeable. I gather your rack bolts into the two smaller holes of the little roof jigs you made up?
Cheers
Bryan
BTW how much did ARB or Overlander quote you for a new rack, whatever size when you enquired?

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

The fitting kit is a single piece of steel each side which is a 'channel' in cross section. This shot should give you an idea. The bottom section of the channel that bolts to the roof is only just long enough for each 'foot' while the top is continuous. At each end and in the middle there is a longer extension of the channel.



The continuous top section makes it easy to adapt to a roof rack with a flat bottom (I knew 'someone' like that once). I packed the front and rear with good old chopping board and riveted through that into the aluminium box section of the rack because the cross members that suited the gutter mounts are about 8mm lower than the bottom of the rack. I used M10 bolts into speed nuts in those cross members which are aluminium unitstrut material or equivalent.

As to cost for the Jarram or ARB or TJM or ECB racks I really cannot remember but was $1,200 ~ 1,500 depending on supplier and material. Also I didn't need a rack 1800+ long so didn't give it any more thought. ARB only had steel racks at that stage and they will suck up about half your roof load allowance.

I think the fitting kit was about $160, having said that ARB prices are in their catalogue supplement and I am pretty sure I managed to get a little discount but it may have been more. The Jarram fitting kit was 6 individual legs but freighted to Australia (oops, fitting anti WA flak jacket right now) the cost would have been around $300 for the set.

The tapped holes in the plates take M8 x 40 316 s/s studs which then have M8 316 cap nuts on top. The countersunk holes have M6 countersunk screws into the roof so they finish flush. By the look of it I used normal spring washers at the front.

Does this help?

[jeff s Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close jeff s]

Re: DIY Roof Rack/Basket Thingy

That looks a pretty good way to mount it, I think you will have many years of trouble free use.
I like it,
I am looking at getting a rack. Mainly for the PP GTG, Was looking at a TJM alloy one. I like the rack but have not seen the mounting kit yet.
If it looks any less than what you have I will make a replica of yours.

Thanks for the pics.



Jeff.