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  • Rubber Body Mounts

    Did a quick search, all I could find is the recent thread on the small body lift done with nylon.

    My question is, has anyone ever had the body mounts in their Prado replaced?

    If you have, was it expensive? Easy?

    Any comments would be appreciated.
    NOW FOR SALE!!! - 2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, Cooper ST MAXX, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, [url="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?18043-Rock-sliders-steel-side-steps"]AJ Sliders[/url]

  • #2
    Re: Rubber Body Mounts

    Whoa, I thought it was quite an intelligent question.

    I get quite a lot of feedback through the steering wheel when going over bumps and I am trying to eliminate why this is. I have had the suspension upgraded, and although this has improved it (amongst all the other benefits of upgrading the suspension), it hasn't eliminated it.

    My thought was, with the body mounts being so soft to make the ride comfortable, surely they wear like any other type of rubber through use.

    I am of the belief my vehicle did a fair amount of offroad adventures and trips prior to me purchasing it, so thought this might be an area to consider and wanted to gauge people's opinions...

    By your comment it seems I should be able to get another 1,100,000kms out of my soft rubber body mounts...
    NOW FOR SALE!!! - 2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, Cooper ST MAXX, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, [url="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?18043-Rock-sliders-steel-side-steps"]AJ Sliders[/url]

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    • #3
      Re: Rubber Body Mounts

      the body mounts in the earlier prado's were soft.
      i have replaced these previously (when i worked for toyota)
      on probably 4 prados, and all under warranty.

      the very front mounts will be the first to go,
      hence why i put 6mm extra on the front (to compensate).

      the job is reasonably easy. would take up to 3 hours if not familiar.
      the time consuming things are inner guards.

      they cost about $70 each
      [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

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      • #4
        Re: Rubber Body Mounts

        Thanks Damonat, much appreciated
        NOW FOR SALE!!! - 2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, Cooper ST MAXX, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, [url="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?18043-Rock-sliders-steel-side-steps"]AJ Sliders[/url]

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Rubber Body Mounts

          Originally posted by Madkore
          I get quite a lot of feedback through the steering wheel when going over bumps and I am trying to eliminate why this is.
          ...and if replacement of the body mounts hasn't sorted out your issue then the steering rack could be the root cause. Check out this thread for more details:
          http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic....=steering+rack
          2014 Toyota Prado 150 D4D Auto (facelift); ARB Deluxe Bullbar; OME 2" Lift; Rhino Pioneer Platform Rack; Redarc BCDC 1225 with Optima Yellow Top; BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KM2; Lightforce Genuine Custom 70w HID; GME UHF; Safari Snorkel; Rigid Industry SR-Q2 side lights (yet to be installed); Domin8or winch (yet to be installed)

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          • #6
            Reviving an an old thread here...

            Has anyone replaced the body mounts on their 120 of late? and if so, were the complete set of mounts replaced?

            Over the week end I attempted to drop my ARB Sahara bar down approx 15mm as the gap between the bar and the front guards are way too close causing rubbing over corrugations and bumpy tracks etc. We loosened off the nuts only to find that we could only achieve an extra couple of mm. Whilst the holes are elongated to allow for adjustment, there was no way I was going to get the gap to an acceptable level (approx 20mm) It was suggested to me that the body mounts have compressed over the years (2004 model) and that the body mounts should be replaced to bring the body back up to it's factory height between chassis and body. Alternatively I could elongate the slots in the Bullbar mounting bracket to allow me to drop the bar to the desired distance from the guard, but is this the right thing to do?

            Current clearance between bar and guard. 11mm on Passenger side and 10mm on drivers...



            This is the ARB Bar mounting bracket. You can see the elongation of the holes (arrow)



            Front Passenger side body mount (part No. 52201C for the upper piece)

            2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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            • #7
              Slot the holes.
              Mine had the gusset brackets for the bar (sovereign) hitting the front apron and causing a knocking noise on bumps. 10 mins with the angle grinder once the bracket was off fixed it.
              http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-Sovereign-bar
              Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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              • #8
                Often they drill one bolt directly in to fix the position, once they are happy with it. Maybe one is not slotted?
                Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
                Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.

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                • #9
                  The bar should be dowelled after it is in its final resting place. That is part of ARB's instructions but something I do anyway.
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                  • #10
                    forgive my ignorance, but what does "dowelled" mean ?

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                    • #11
                      A fitted bolt or straight dowel in a hole drilled through both/all sections which locks it in place while the other bolts take any load. The hole is just size for size or if you use a dowel a little under size and the dowel is driven in.

                      Does that make sense? Very common to do this on large machines between the bed and the baseplate or bearing blocks.
                      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                        A fitted bolt or straight dowel in a hole drilled through both/all sections which locks it in place while the other bolts take any load. The hole is just size for size or if you use a dowel a little under size and the dowel is driven in.

                        Does that make sense? Very common to do this on large machines between the bed and the baseplate or bearing blocks.
                        Yeah but not necessary for a bullbar.
                        Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I would be replacing the worn parts rather than modifying other parts to suit. It shouldn't be that hard to change them, I have had the body jacked up on mine off these mounts, a bit of mucking around but not rocket science. Half a day for an amateur should have it good as new.

                          Cheers Andrew
                          [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


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                          • #14
                            Hi Craig like the guys above said there should be several bolts which lock the bull bar in place after it has been aligned. I have fitted several ARB bars and they all had this. With mine there was the three slotted bolt holes each side as shown in you picture. Once the bull bar is correctly aligned the instructions say to drill a further two bolt holes each side which lock it into place. Looks like the bottom bolt in your picture, I can't see the top bolt but it should be there. With my bar the locking holes were only drilled in one layer, this was to give you a guide where the holes needed to be drilled. These 4 lock bolts are meant to prevent the bar coming out of alignment during whiting or rough roads, I have seen several bars move the first time the winch is used which don't have the holes drilled.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            [FONT=Comic Sans MS][B][COLOR=#000080][COLOR=#FF0000]2003 V6 Parado Grande.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
                            Custom rear drawer system, Custom 6mm alloy bash plate and Custom rear steel bar, Dual battery and ARB duel compressor. SPC upper control arms. So far....[COLOR=#0000CD]See my build[/COLOR] [URL]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?31855-Kevdebbi-s-120-V6-Grande[/URL][/B][/FONT]
                            [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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                            • #15
                              My thoughts too AJ.. The 2 front ones are the easiest to get too, the other 6 will require removing some side trims and carpet to get to the bolts through the floor pan. Still unsure whether it would be ok to just replace the 2 mounts up front or if that would cause any unnecessary stress on the body at the 2nd point where there is a difference in height


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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