I have helped fit one. Installation of the dump pipe is much easier as the d4d has better access to the nuts that hold it to the turbo and there are only three to contend with.
The rest of the exhaust is identical to the 1kz exhaust (as is the factory unit) so I imagine gains would be very similar.
The factory muffler is a heavy " Baffle" type unit that I imagine doesn't help with flow and the section of pipe over the rear axle includes a big dent from the factory to clear the body (I kid you not :shock: )
I can't comment on the gains, but the person I helped with installation was happy with it.
Mick
[CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost![/COLOR][/SIZE][/I][/B][/CENTER]
i just cant get my hands in close enough once i have the spanner on the nut(between the pipe and block)
Try a 3/4 drive socket set.(1/2 is to big/ 1/4 is too small) With an extension, deep socket and universal joint/wobble bar you will have you hands out in the space between the fire wall and dump pipe, Much easier to work.
The nuts are very tight because they are a lock nut (The type were the top of the nut/last couple of threads are compressed)
Soak them well in CRC/Chemsearch or alike.
Mick
2007 D4D auto, Tunit Power Module, Scan GaugeII, Bilsteins & lovels HD, raised 50mm front & 60mm rear, 10,000lb Tmax winch, 7/16th Amsteelblue synthetic 23,000lb winch cable, TiTan HD winch solenoid pack, Outback draws with fridge slide & 50 litre Waeco, Ryno roof rack & Alloy Cage & extra set of Rhino HD Roof bars x 3, TJM type 15 steel Bullbar powder coated silver, Dual battery setup with custom tray, Bosch Navigator spots with 55w HID kit, Sand Grabber mats, Toyota Tow Bar, Sensor Touch Electric Brakes, Cooper ST 265/70/17 tyres, Uniden remote head UHF radio, Modified Milford Cargo Barrier, Extra power points in the back run with 10mm wire for fridge & inverter, Anderson plugs with 10mm wire front & back for the camper & compresor conections. 7 inch in dash JVC DVD player with bluetooth & Ipod adaptor, 39DB Stebel High Power TM80/2 Magnum Electric Horns. JL Audio 300/4, 300/2 power amps, Pioneer TS-C160R front splits & TS-D161S rear speakers & 12" Pioneer sub
Still need to fit some heavy duty engine & transmision gaurds, snorkel. 9inch headrest monitors
What are people's experience with aftermarket exhausts on a D4D? In particular did it result in any vibration or droning.
I'd had pretty much decided to get a Taipan XP but when I spoke to a well respected diesel performance expert here in Perth he said that he has had a number of issues with fitting aftermarket exhausts (they mainly fit TaipanXP) to D4Ds, to the point where he advises against it. He said that the new exhaust quite often results in vibrations that are virtually impossible eliminate. I have not heard of this issue from any other source and would normally just right it off as sales BS, but like I said, this came from a very experienced, well known diesel performance expert.
Well i did get my exhaust on eventually, i just wasnt able to post my results as i was banned for a month posting something for sale, anyway after the exhaust i have noticed a much faster spool up, alot better fuel economy, good increase in low end torque and slightly better top end, but the biggest increase was in the mid range! It feels like a weapon to drive now, much better power delivery and its feels effortless even with 32s on it. Its always felt like a slug on the beach compared to my v8 rovers, but i am impressed now, it is a completly different vehicle to drive on the sand now, im confident that it will tow the camper on the sand now without needing my other truck on the end of snatch strap to get it up the bigger dunes.
Fuel economy - keep in mind these figures dont take in to account the under reading due to 32s - was around 1000-1100 max per 150-160L fill, i thought this was pretty poor for a 3L turbo deisel, its now getting around 1300 from the same ammount of fuel, still not great but a hell of a lot better just from an exhaust, btw it is a 2003 auto and those Kms were a mixture of around town and driving to work(Stockton to Black Bill)
2007 D4D Prado Grande. tunit chip, 2.5" exhaust, headlight and bonnet protector. Reverse camera and sensors. Pioneer top of the range head unit with twin amps and sub and new speakers through out. tow bar.
I've just had the Taipanxp added to my 2004 Prado Grande Auto 1kz along with a K&N and turbo boost booster (+2psi boost). I have definitely notice a significant change in the motors willingness to rev past 3000rpm, now makes usable power up to late 3's. Also motor revs spool faster through 1,000rpm to 2,000rpm. Fuel economy has significantly changed (have done 2,000ks so far for a 7-8% fuel economy improvement (I have a safari chip installed as well)). Whilst exhaust noise isn't an issue (at any speed) there is definitely a "coarseness" around idle that is now present (more vibration) but onec underway it smooths out completely. K&N adds a lot of induction noise at low speed and larger throttle openings. All up am happy with the changes given the power increase and drivability.
2004 Prado Grande 1KZ, 4 spd auto, Safari D-tronic, K&N, Taipanxp exhaust, ARB Safai Bar, Cooper ATRs, Bilstein shocks, Axles straps, King front springs, UHF, Prodigy brake controller, Dual battery
Hi noelpolar, What is the turbo boost device you have, how does it work?
Originally posted by noelpolar
I've just had the Taipanxp added to my 2004 Prado Grande Auto 1kz along with a K&N and turbo boost booster (+2psi boost). I have definitely notice a significant change in the motors willingness to rev past 3000rpm, now makes usable power up to late 3's. Also motor revs spool faster through 1,000rpm to 2,000rpm. Fuel economy has significantly changed (have done 2,000ks so far for a 7-8% fuel economy improvement (I have a safari chip installed as well)). Whilst exhaust noise isn't an issue (at any speed) there is definitely a "coarseness" around idle that is now present (more vibration) but onec underway it smooths out completely. K&N adds a lot of induction noise at low speed and larger throttle openings. All up am happy with the changes given the power increase and drivability.
2007 D4D auto, Tunit Power Module, Scan GaugeII, Bilsteins & lovels HD, raised 50mm front & 60mm rear, 10,000lb Tmax winch, 7/16th Amsteelblue synthetic 23,000lb winch cable, TiTan HD winch solenoid pack, Outback draws with fridge slide & 50 litre Waeco, Ryno roof rack & Alloy Cage & extra set of Rhino HD Roof bars x 3, TJM type 15 steel Bullbar powder coated silver, Dual battery setup with custom tray, Bosch Navigator spots with 55w HID kit, Sand Grabber mats, Toyota Tow Bar, Sensor Touch Electric Brakes, Cooper ST 265/70/17 tyres, Uniden remote head UHF radio, Modified Milford Cargo Barrier, Extra power points in the back run with 10mm wire for fridge & inverter, Anderson plugs with 10mm wire front & back for the camper & compresor conections. 7 inch in dash JVC DVD player with bluetooth & Ipod adaptor, 39DB Stebel High Power TM80/2 Magnum Electric Horns. JL Audio 300/4, 300/2 power amps, Pioneer TS-C160R front splits & TS-D161S rear speakers & 12" Pioneer sub
Still need to fit some heavy duty engine & transmision gaurds, snorkel. 9inch headrest monitors
2004 Prado Grande 1KZ, 4 spd auto, Safari D-tronic, K&N, Taipanxp exhaust, ARB Safai Bar, Cooper ATRs, Bilstein shocks, Axles straps, King front springs, UHF, Prodigy brake controller, Dual battery
What is the turbo boost device you have, how does it work?
It would be a bleed/shuttle valve in the waste gate actuator line.
I notice you have a D4D, the only way to lift the boost on your engine is electronically via the ECU.
Mick
Hi Mick
Could you tell me where to get one of these bleed /shutttle valves please?
And how hard are they to fit,Can i do it my self?Iam not to bad at working on cars..
Cheers Jon
Hi Mick
Could you tell me where to get one of these bleed /shutttle valves please?
And how hard are they to fit,Can i do it my self?Iam not to bad at working on cars..
Cheers Jon
Thread running on 1kz boost controller here with all the information you need:
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