Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Fitting Electric Brake Controller

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    There might be copyright issues posting the diagram, I'm not too sure. Can we PM on this forum?

    AR2 is a 14 pin connector in the LHS footwell at the top of the connector cluster.

    The grey wire is shown as coming from the 30 amp BRK fuse, through pin 10 of AR2 and grey (still) going via the mating pin 10 to to the trailer connector (rear LHS) R23 (10 pin connector in your picture) pin 7. Do you have the trailer wiring unit spliced into the loom for R23 that I described earlier? I think I can see it in the background of your picture.

    There is a green wire shown coming from the 30 amp Towing fuse via AR2 pin 11 to R23 pin 4. So there is 2 'hot' wires in R23. White/black is ground pin 8 (next to the grey on pin 7), Red on pin 3 comes from a 10 amp "towing back up" fuse and circuit (probably reversing lights), pin 6 (looks like light green) is from the tail light circuit, pin 1 yellow is turn signal Left, pin 10 green is turn signal Right, pin 2 light blue comes via AR2 pin 5 and is the Stop (via the stop light solid state relay A54....see my comments earlier about not a good idea to pick up the stop signal from this circuit.)

    Hope that helps a bit.

    Cheers
    Geoff

    Comment


    • #32
      It is possible to buy terminals with short leads on them from Mr Toyota for a largish sum. This then enables you to insert the "repair wire" into the trailer socket and get easy connection to the unused wires at R23.

      The part numbers are -
      Repair wire 4.8mm 160mm 82998-12370
      Repair wire 2.3II 160mm 82998-12330

      These will fit into the trailer side plug that fits into the trailer wiring socket R23.

      They will allow easy connection to the two grey wires in the towing harness Socket R23.

      The grey wire with the smaller 2.3mm connector is only at 12V when the ign is on, but not at the accessory position. It is protected by a 7.5A fuse and this circuit is used by quite a few other important circuits.

      The grey wire with the larger 4.8mm connector is permanently at 12V and is protected by its own 30A fuse "Towing Brake".

      I will be using the ign 12v smaller grey wire protected with a 1 amp fuse to switch a relay that will connect to the permanent high current wire thus giving a source of 12V at high current when the ignition is on.

      The heavy green wire next to the heavy grey wire on the trailer connector is also permanently at 12V and is protected by the "Towing" 30 A fuse. Its use appears to be to provide power to trailer lights via the relays in the genuine Toyota towing harness if fitted. These relays are switched by the car light circuits and provide isolation between the trailer lights and the vehicle.

      I am guessing the "towing brake" wire is used for a similar purpose in some markets that have integrated electric towing brake controller wiring.

      I mentioned some of this in the "Useful Wires Colours" thread post #35 -

      http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ocations/page3

      Cheers
      Prone
      2018 Prado 150 VX Auto

      Comment


      • #33
        I should have reread that thread Prone as I've reinvented the wheel today. I've pretty much confirmed what you have both said with some minor differences and additions.

        I buzzed all this so it's not theory anymore. The grey wire indeed runs right from the LHS rear R23 socket through socket AR2 in the LHS footwell to a 30A fuse in the engine bay. My fuse however is marked 'Towing' (facelifted MY14 GXL). I haven't checked the green wire you mention.

        White/black is an earth wire as described.

        After confirming that this circuit doesn't power anything else (my CD is in the mail) I'd be happy to split this Grey wire prior to the footwell connector (see pics); use the live side to power the controller; and the tail as the 'blue' wire to the rear plug. One of those 'repair tails' would be handy here prone for a very neat install straight into the connector. I'll pick up the purple at the brake peddle for signal. Missed anything?

        Yep, the standard Hayman Reece loom used either came with or had the extra thinga-ma-jigy spliced into it.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	17.5 KB
ID:	645983
        Click image for larger version

Name:	image2.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	16.0 KB
ID:	645984
        Click image for larger version

Name:	image3.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	13.2 KB
ID:	645985

        Comment


        • #34
          Hi guys. Not sure if anyone has thought of this, but why would you would want to use a fuse for main power instead of the auto circuit breaker. Once that fuse blow's due to a fault, you have no controller. At least with the circuit breaker it will reset and give you some sort of brakes. They usually supply the breaker with the controller for a reason. Just my 2c worth.
          Kris
          96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by Playdoh96 View Post
            Hi guys. Not sure if anyone has thought of this, but why would you would want to use a fuse for main power instead of the auto circuit breaker. Once that fuse blow's due to a fault, you have no controller. At least with the circuit breaker it will reset and give you some sort of brakes. They usually supply the breaker with the controller for a reason. Just my 2c worth.
            Kris
            Like you have a auto circuit breaker in the vehicle for the headlights, great idea, as last thing you want is to be going round a bend on a winding road in pitch black dark. Try it you will be clear about how important that is.
            However, auto elec says, he has had faults & melted wires doing lots of damage. So better off to run a fuse, thats how he sets them up.
            That being said I set up using a narva 20amp auto reset.
            I might change to a fuse. It's not so bad if in the unlikely event you have a fault & the fuse blows, the vehicle brakes still work.
            At least your wiring is not melted.

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
              Like you have a auto circuit breaker in the vehicle for the headlights, great idea, as last thing you want is to be going round a bend on a winding road in pitch black dark. Try it you will be clear about how important that is.
              However, auto elec says, he has had faults & melted wires doing lots of damage. So better off to run a fuse, thats how he sets them up.
              That being said I set up using a narva 20amp auto reset.
              I might change to a fuse. It's not so bad if in the unlikely event you have a fault & the fuse blows, the vehicle brakes still work.
              At least your wiring is not melted.
              Sorry but I have to disagree. Only time I've seen melted wiring looms is from unprotected circuits ( unfuseed) circuit breaker are designed to open or unload wiring to protect loom.
              96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Playdoh96 View Post
                Hi guys. Not sure if anyone has thought of this, but why would you would want to use a fuse for main power instead of the auto circuit breaker. Once that fuse blow's due to a fault, you have no controller. At least with the circuit breaker it will reset and give you some sort of brakes. They usually supply the breaker with the controller for a reason. Just my 2c worth.
                Kris
                It's a reasonable question Kris. I started on this track just because I knew there was a quick connection made for this vehicle and I'd done the same thing so simply on a previous non-Toyota vehicle. I simply bought the tail from the parts department, plugged it into the the controller and into the dash and away we went. When I knew the wiring existed I was keen to find it.

                As far as the fuse goes, I used an auto-reset last time but I can't really say I understand them. It's ok if there is a once off fault and it resets. That's pretty convenient. But what happens if it a constant fault? Does it just keep resetting until something destroys itself?

                Comment


                • #38
                  Basically they work off of heat. With a dead short you have a heap of current trying to escape to earth, coursing a heap of heat, the circuit breaker will heat up a element inside and pull the switch apart " open circuit ". When the breaker cools it will reset and close the switch. This all happens quickly. As long as you are using the correct size wiring for the load /circuit breaker there is no need to worry. Hope this helps
                  Playdoh96
                  Member
                  Last edited by Playdoh96; 08-12-2013, 06:49 PM.
                  96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Yes they will just keep on cycling till they destroy themselves, occassionally
                    they can also weld the contacts together and the results are not good!

                    Leigh
                    HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Playdoh96 View Post
                      Sorry but I have to disagree. Only time I've seen melted wiring looms is from unprotected circuits ( unfuseed) circuit breaker are designed to open or unload wiring to protect loom.
                      Sorry, don't be sorry, it's what can happen, like I said that's why the auto elec here uses fuses.
                      He's sees it, so it's a fact.

                      You may not have seen it. That's really good.
                      Maybe a bit like 1kd injectors, I have never seen it, but its real!

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Each to there own. As long as any accessories are protected by correct size fuse/ circuit breaker you shouldn't have any issues Dingle. Good luck mate.
                        96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          With regards to the electric brakes, I seem to recall it is a regulation that they should
                          be fitted with a circuit breaker and not a fuse but I will stand corrected?
                          HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by LeighW View Post
                            With regards to the electric brakes, I seem to recall it is a regulation that they should
                            be fitted with a circuit breaker and not a fuse but I will stand corrected?
                            Well the instruction say auto reset circuit breaker, because its brakes this may be the case.
                            Another reason I used a breaker.

                            Originally posted by Playdoh96 View Post
                            Each to there own. As long as any accessories are protected by correct size fuse/ circuit breaker you shouldn't have any issues Dingle. Good luck mate.
                            Exactly! & Exactly!

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Dingle View Post
                              I should have reread that thread Prone as I've reinvented the wheel today. I've pretty much confirmed what you have both said with some minor differences and additions.

                              I buzzed all this so it's not theory anymore. The grey wire indeed runs right from the LHS rear R23 socket through socket AR2 in the LHS footwell to a 30A fuse in the engine bay. My fuse however is marked 'Towing' (facelifted MY14 GXL). I haven't checked the green wire you mention.

                              White/black is an earth wire as described.

                              After confirming that this circuit doesn't power anything else (my CD is in the mail) I'd be happy to split this Grey wire prior to the footwell connector (see pics); use the live side to power the controller; and the tail as the 'blue' wire to the rear plug. One of those 'repair tails' would be handy here prone for a very neat install straight into the connector. I'll pick up the purple at the brake peddle for signal. Missed anything?

                              Yep, the standard Hayman Reece loom used either came with or had the extra thinga-ma-jigy spliced into it.
                              I ran a new heavy wire from battery via a circuit breaker to power the electric brakes. Easy enough to do. I used kit from ABR Sidewinder. Not sure if that grey wire is large enough for the brake circuit. I tapped into the brake circuit at rear also using an extra wire I ran. (I hate being upside down working in the footwell!) Just make sure to tap onto the right side of the interface circuit if you do it at the rear. Should be on the car side of that interface and not the trailer side. If you get it wrong operating the trailer brakes manually will put on the trailer brake lights but not the car brake lights, also will not disengage cruise control! Important!

                              I could not find anything else on that grey wire 30A circuit.

                              Cheers
                              Prone
                              2018 Prado 150 VX Auto

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                I did a few quick calcs on the 3mm grey wire and it would good for a single axle but the voltage drop would be too much for anything more.

                                ADR 38—Trailer Brake Systems - makes no specific statements about fuses or wire size instead referring you to the Australian Standard. I'll have to wait until I can get back to work on Friday to access it.

                                Except for motor vehicles over 3.5 tonnes ‘GVM’ and trailers over 3.5 tonnes ‘ATM’, the electrical connectors between motor vehicles and trailers, for the purpose of operating the prescribed vehicle lighting and signalling must comply with Australian Standard 2513 – 1982 “Electrical Connections for Trailer Vehicles”.
                                Negative information about auto resetting circuit breakers (ARCB) wasn't easy to find. I did find though that aircraft circuits are not permitted to be protected by ARCB alone. A manual fuse must be used to protect the wire while an ARCB can be used to protect the electronic item. Then I found this article about air crashes due to manually resetting CB's without checking the cause. It's sobering and a good thing we're not airborne. http://flightsafety.org/asw/apr09/as...46-49.pdf?dl=1

                                I'll see what the Australian standards say and report back.

                                Comment

                                canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                                mencisport.com
                                antalya escort
                                tsyd.org deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                gaziantep escort
                                gaziantep escort
                                asyabahis maltcasino olabahis olabahis
                                erotik film izle Rus escort gaziantep rus escort
                                atasehir escort tuzla escort
                                sikis sex hatti
                                en iyi casino siteleri
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                casibom
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                betticket istanbulbahis
                                Working...
                                X