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Rattle in rear area - Door?

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  • #16
    Got the car back from service now and the issue is fixed. The dealer said they took it to a panel beater who worked on the door latch assembly and got it fixed nicely. No more rattle. So much quieter. All good.

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    • #17
      Get them to tighten the rear spoiler screws, or do it yourself, pull out the black plugs on the top of the door and do it yourself. Hopefully that works

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      • #18
        Mine had started rattling in rear area, and getting worse each day almost driving me nuts, at the end found its the spoiler at the rear glass. For those whoe experience the same, exactly wich part is loose and rattle or its the whole spoiler assembly? Thanks in advance

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        • #19
          After many weeks of pulling things out and riding in the back, I put some lubricant on the latch and the rattle disappeared.
          The 3rd row seats never went back in, it's surprising how much more room you have with those seats out.

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          • #20
            To add another reason to the list of squeaks & rattles in the rear door already mentioned here.

            Part way through our WA trip a few months back, we noticed a rattle in the rear door but only heard it when driving around after camp was setup and the back of the car empty. Once we were packed up, couldn't hear the noise anymore. The wonderful dirt roads will do this occasionally. When we got home and emptied the car, I started searching for this noise as I got time.

            Searched PP, found quite a few useful threads on this subject, followed what was mentioned and none of it made any difference, the noise was still there. Cleaned the rubber seal several times, removed the seal, cleaned and removed the plastic clip in guide, lubricated hinges and latch, lots of short drives after each attempt and made very little difference.

            The only time the noise would stop, was when the spare tyre was removed. Removed the spare tyre holder, cleaned behind it, refitted (several times) and ensured the 4 bolts were tight but still the noise persisted and the spare always shuddered a lot when the door was closed.

            Spent some time in the back of the car with the wife driving and it sounded like something was loose/broken inside the door, so off to the panel beaters to see what we could find. With plastic trim removed, we could still hear the noise, nothing obvious was loose but it would stop when we held the metal frame between the inner and outer door skins. As we looked further, we found several broken spot welds on the inside door skin that held the inner skin to the metal frame inside. The broken spot welds were later drilled out and welded, which removed most of the noise.

            In the picture below, some of the broken spot welds have a black texta mark next to them.


            We then removed the spare and the holder and while moving the bracket inside the door could see movement between the outer door skin and the frame inside the door that the tyre bracket mounts too. After some discussion, rightly or wrongly and with what’s left of my sanity on the line, it was decided to use some heavy duty rivets through the door skin and into the inner frame, as this would hopefully stop the movement and the rest of the noise and they did. With the spare tyre bracket mounted, they cant be seen.


            Was this the best fix or the right fix, I don’t know. How long will the fix last, I don’t know. Time will tell on both questions but for the moment, the noise is gone.

            Options if the issue returns seem to be a new door or a wheel carrier, neither of them are cheap.

            To answer a few questions.
            Yes, tyre pressures were dropped for all sections of dirt road to 30psi hot which was about 25psi cold. Maximum speed was kept to 80kph and yes I was over taken a few times.
            Yes, there was a spacer behind the tyre bracket. Kamar if it matters and has since been removed.
            Yes, a dirty gear bag was hung on the tyre to save leaving rubbish behind.
            We didn’t do anything different to other trips we have done in the 150 or previous 95.
            [B]Dave[/B] - 2010 Silver GXL Prado 150 TD Manual.

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            • #21
              Hey DGW I have got exactly the same problem with mine. Also had the Kaymar spacer and light on. I just took it off today and it reduced but did not stop the very annoying rattle. If I grab the tyre on both sides and rock it back and forward I can still hear the noise. I concluded that it must have something to do with the inner and outer skins but didn't think about broken welds. My question is therefore; has your rivet solution solved the problem? If so I think I might give it a go myself. Maybe the Kaymar spacer can go back on after all.

              Thanks
              Neil
              2018 GXL D4D auto, ARB bar, dual batteries, BFG A/T's, Dobinson/Bilstein suspension

              Comment


              • #22
                Hi Sleeky5,

                So far so good but I haven't really challenged it with good long corrugated road. On the few short corrugated sections and the high quality roads around here, the noise appears to be gone. I haven't added the wheel spacer back in yet.....

                This noise did my head before stripping the door and seeing what had happened inside. On seeing the inside, the noise makes a lot of sense.
                [B]Dave[/B] - 2010 Silver GXL Prado 150 TD Manual.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Thanks so much for this thread guys. I will try all of the above (spoiler tightening, strut check), but I fear it too is a broken weld in the door as I also have had a Kaymar rear spacer with a 285/65 R18 Cooper AT3 on the back for the last 44000km.

                  I'm getting that rattle/squeak just driving around town and with trip from Melbourne to Fraser Island coming up that would do my head in! I guess the tyre and the bike rack attached to the tyre from time to time (with 2 adult bikes - light -ish) may have caused this...

                  DGW, how hard is it to get that rear trim off to check the problem? I'm sorta handy - did a driving light install but not super handy (no welding or even soldering experience!). Happy to give a rivet gun a go again - they make the best noise and fix so much!

                  Any advice much appreciated.
                  vxdaz
                  Junior Member
                  Last edited by vxdaz; 12-08-2016, 10:04 PM. Reason: sperring
                  2014 VX, White, TJM Bullbar, Xray Vision HID driving lights, Hayman Reese Towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, dobinsons lift, Coopers LT ATs

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I also did the rivet thing which seemed to be quite siccessfu. In preparation for a Simpson trip I put the Kaymar thingy back on with a light and HF radio aerial. The rattle returned almost immediately and seemed much worse after the trip. I took it off again when I got back and the rattle disappeared again. I guess it has something to do with the additional leaverage from the spare wheel being further out from the door. I think the Kaymar will be going on Gumtree. Can you fit the wheel on without the spacer? I would suggest you try taking it off before you you go riveting things.

                    Regards
                    Neil
                    2018 GXL D4D auto, ARB bar, dual batteries, BFG A/T's, Dobinson/Bilstein suspension

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Lulu View Post
                      I was having issues with a rattle in the back and found that the jack had wound itself down a bit when stored and was no longer stored securely.
                      I'm a plus one for the jack. Seems to happen fairly regularly... Jack comes down a bit and works loose.
                      2013 (MY14 Facelift) GX - KDJ150R
                      -ARB Alloy Roof Rack -SMART Bar -LED rear work light
                      -Dual batt. (Red arc sBi) -Secondary fuel filter
                      -9" Supacentre LED spotlights -Bushskinz bash plates
                      -Safari snorkel

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by sleeky5 View Post
                        I also did the rivet thing which seemed to be quite siccessfu. In preparation for a Simpson trip I put the Kaymar thingy back on with a light and HF radio aerial. The rattle returned almost immediately and seemed much worse after the trip. I took it off again when I got back and the rattle disappeared again. I guess it has something to do with the additional leaverage from the spare wheel being further out from the door. I think the Kaymar will be going on Gumtree. Can you fit the wheel on without the spacer? I would suggest you try taking it off before you you go riveting things.

                        Regards
                        Neil
                        Hi sleeky5

                        Thanks for that, I tried putting on the spare wheel with no spacer but those extra mm won't let it fit. I'll have a look based on DGW's suggestions and fix and see if the door internal welding points have gone.

                        Thanks for the suggestions.
                        2014 VX, White, TJM Bullbar, Xray Vision HID driving lights, Hayman Reese Towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, dobinsons lift, Coopers LT ATs

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I made a spacer for my 120 out of one of those plastic chopping boards which wasn't as wide as the Kaymar. That just moved my spare out enough to fit without rubbing. It may not fix your problem but worth trying if you can do without the Kaymar.
                          2018 GXL D4D auto, ARB bar, dual batteries, BFG A/T's, Dobinson/Bilstein suspension

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by sleeky5 View Post
                            I made a spacer for my 120 out of one of those plastic chopping boards which wasn't as wide as the Kaymar. That just moved my spare out enough to fit without rubbing. It may not fix your problem but worth trying if you can do without the Kaymar.
                            Hi again

                            After some thought I've removed the Kaymar spacer and packed it out with some washers spring washers together with some loctite on the factory nuts at the top and factory bolts at the bottom. Rattle has gone. If this is an engineering no no on the pack out then please let me know.

                            I did remove the rear trim, no broken bits thank heavens but did get to tighten up the spoiler bolts anyway. Trim back on, rear tyre on and all quiet.
                            2014 VX, White, TJM Bullbar, Xray Vision HID driving lights, Hayman Reese Towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, dobinsons lift, Coopers LT ATs

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Great outcome. The only thing I didn't try was loctite. Let me know how it stands up after the next expedition.
                              2018 GXL D4D auto, ARB bar, dual batteries, BFG A/T's, Dobinson/Bilstein suspension

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                done almost everything in this thread and still have the rattle at 22k Nov 14 build, at least it matches the rattle in the engine.

                                Toyota can't find the door rattle(2 attempts) and will monitor the engine rattle/noise. Oil changed at 2000, 7k 12, 17k and now at 22K

                                First and last Toyota we will buy POS

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