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Rattle in rear area - Door?

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  • #46
    After reading over this thread I moved on a few easy ones and it sorted the rear door squeak, thanks for the help

    lubed door latch
    chocked plastic infill next to rear wiper
    added foam tape to rear wheel brace tool box

    not sure which one it was but it’s sorted

    now onto the one in the front lol
    30K old and plenty of rattles a tad imbarracing for a 90k car

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by DGW View Post
      To add another reason to the list of squeaks & rattles in the rear door already mentioned here.

      Part way through our WA trip a few months back, we noticed a rattle in the rear door but only heard it when driving around after camp was setup and the back of the car empty. Once we were packed up, couldn't hear the noise anymore. The wonderful dirt roads will do this occasionally. When we got home and emptied the car, I started searching for this noise as I got time.

      Searched PP, found quite a few useful threads on this subject, followed what was mentioned and none of it made any difference, the noise was still there. Cleaned the rubber seal several times, removed the seal, cleaned and removed the plastic clip in guide, lubricated hinges and latch, lots of short drives after each attempt and made very little difference.

      The only time the noise would stop, was when the spare tyre was removed. Removed the spare tyre holder, cleaned behind it, refitted (several times) and ensured the 4 bolts were tight but still the noise persisted and the spare always shuddered a lot when the door was closed.

      Spent some time in the back of the car with the wife driving and it sounded like something was loose/broken inside the door, so off to the panel beaters to see what we could find. With plastic trim removed, we could still hear the noise, nothing obvious was loose but it would stop when we held the metal frame between the inner and outer door skins. As we looked further, we found several broken spot welds on the inside door skin that held the inner skin to the metal frame inside. The broken spot welds were later drilled out and welded, which removed most of the noise.

      In the picture below, some of the broken spot welds have a black texta mark next to them.


      We then removed the spare and the holder and while moving the bracket inside the door could see movement between the outer door skin and the frame inside the door that the tyre bracket mounts too. After some discussion, rightly or wrongly and with what’s left of my sanity on the line, it was decided to use some heavy duty rivets through the door skin and into the inner frame, as this would hopefully stop the movement and the rest of the noise and they did. With the spare tyre bracket mounted, they cant be seen.


      Was this the best fix or the right fix, I don’t know. How long will the fix last, I don’t know. Time will tell on both questions but for the moment, the noise is gone.

      Options if the issue returns seem to be a new door or a wheel carrier, neither of them are cheap.

      To answer a few questions.
      Yes, tyre pressures were dropped for all sections of dirt road to 30psi hot which was about 25psi cold. Maximum speed was kept to 80kph and yes I was over taken a few times.
      Yes, there was a spacer behind the tyre bracket. Kamar if it matters and has since been removed.
      Yes, a dirty gear bag was hung on the tyre to save leaving rubbish behind.
      We didn’t do anything different to other trips we have done in the 150 or previous 95.
      Hi DGW
      I've got what seems to be the same issue as you. Unfortunately I can't open the photos you have included. Looking to find the spot where the welds may be broken. Can you please repost them?
      Thanks
      Matt

      Comment


      • #48
        Hi Matt. I’ve been having the same issue. Have followed the posts and troubleshooting based on what I’ve read but nothing worked. EventualIy I took off the spare wheel and removed the plastic shroud as well. I found that the foam pieces that rest against the car body and provide some shock absorption were almost completely compressed, had lost all elasticity and would not have been dampening any movement of the plastic. So I removed the 5 or 6 pieces of foam that looked to be completely gone, cleaned down to bare plastic and replaced with 4.5mm insert rubber. Early days yet but the rattle is gone. When replacing the shroud I had to work a bit harder to get the plastic pin back in as the rubber keeps the shroud ever so slightly further off the mounting points.

        The rattle sounded like it was coming from around the inner door handle and could easily be replicated by lightly punching the spare wheel on the top RHS. Hopefully this can help you.

        Comment


        • #49
          I found I had three broken spot welds causing my knocking/ squeaking. Also have the Kaymar wheel spacer aerial mount. I drilled out the welds and rewelded them. Unfortunately no gas in welder and only 0.9mm gasless wire, currently in covid ISO so can’t get more gas so did what I could with tools I had.

          Comment


          • #50
            Hopefully this will helpSmall photos
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #51
              Just discovered this thread after spending many hours of my life that I'll never get back, trying to eliminate an annoying "clunk" in the back of the 2020 VX Prado. Here is the long list of what I tried, some of which is mentioned in this thread over the years. It is finally solved and I suspect it is the last item listed:
              1. Checked the jack was screwed in tight. It was. Even taking the jack out didn't help.
              2. Checked the tool set inside the tailgate to make sure everything was tight. It was. Took the tool tray out altogether. Didn't help.
              3. Put foam inside the other hatch on the inside of the tailgate to make sure nothing stored there would rattle. Didn't help.
              4. The strut has a loose ball joint (by design I think) and rattles when the tailgate is open but is meant to be squeezed against the plastic bumper when closed. I taped foam around the strut to clamp it tighter. Didn't help.
              5. I have a home made (but quite slick if I do say so) drawer system, so I tried removing everything in the drawers, putting foam in the box that had heavy shackles etc in it, and part dismantling the drawers in case something had got between the drawers and the carcass, or underneath, between the carcass and the floor pan. Didn't find anything and didn't help.
              6. There are several cables threaded behind the plastic cover of the passenger side wheel arch - for fridge outlet, rear view camera etc. Thought they may be tapping against the metal wheel arch. Worked like a gynaecologist through the hole where the cap holder sits to zip tie all the cable securely. Didn't help.
              7. Found the catch on the bottom of the spare wheel cover was a bit loose so bent the hook with pliers til tight again. Didn't help.
              8. I have the heavy rubber boot mat from Toyota and thought maybe it was flapping against the side panels going over bumps. Took it out. Didn't help.
              9. Read this thread and .....
                1. Checked that bolts holding the tailgate spoiler / wiper to the tailgate were all tight to spec. They are.
                2. Removed the spare wheel cover completely.
                3. Checked that the foam blocks between the tailgate and the plastic backing plate for the wheel cover are sound. They are. Can't make that plate rattle.
                4. Put some lubricant on the tailgate latch. Can't fathom why this might cause a rattle but getting desperate now.
                5. Prompted by the idea that the tailgate spoiler / wiper is the culprit, shook and rattled it. And there is a plastic cover underneath the driver's side end of the spoiler which was loose and rattly. Used black grizzly tape to secure it.
              Now the clunk is gone. So now I'm not sure which of the last 4 items fixed it, but I guess I'll undo them one at a time and see if it comes back. Sigh. Just glad it wasn't spot welds breaking as per other posts. But then everyone with that problem seemed to be using a spacer to set the spare wheel further off the tail gate and I don't use one of them.

              Comment


              • #52
                I had an occasional rattle that was driving me batty. Sat in the back and it appeared to come from within the jack storage area. Long story short, it turned out to be the plastic inner wheel arch had broken clips. A couple of Tek-screws later, all fixed.

                Comment

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