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  • Originally posted by TheFloyd View Post
    Got a new 2017 GXL a couple of week ago and fitted it with a toyota genuine bullbar. I have been trying to find some clear information about mounting front recovery points on a 2017 P150 that has this bullbar, and it is surprisingly difficult to get the info i am after. seems pretty easy to find detailed product and mounting guides for 120 series or for 150's that have the ARB bullbar, but not the toyota bar.
    Hi Again all,
    OK, Done it, and it was a complete doddle. If anyone else has the Genuine Toyota Alloy Bullbar on their 150 Prado, and cant find instructions, I can tell you that I had no issue fitting mine. As mentioned before, I just took a gamble and bought these http://www.marks4wd.com/rppra150.html which were way cheaper from what seem to be other identical products on the market. they arrived from interstate (free shipping) within 4 days and they took me about 30 minutes to install.

    Bits that you might want to know (because i wanted to know this)...
    1 - The bottom bolt points that hold on your bullbar (regardless of brand) have a thread built into the chassis. There is no nasty little nut to go fishing out when you remove the bolt. (wow i was relieved when i discovered this!)
    2 - when you undo the bottom bold point of your bullbar, nothing happens! so dont worry about your BB falling on you or shifting etc...
    3 - the bolts in point are bloody tight! lots of old-man noises and you will have them off though, with a big socket or ring spanner.
    4 - you dont need to drill holes in anything. The RP that i bought had a few options for mounting up to three bolts per side. I used two of them, which was documented as fine to do, as the third bolt was optional or for fitting to FJ's (I think).
    5 - The bolts you get with the recovery points are significantly higher rated than the ones you removed from the factory fitted bullbar, so just replace them.
    6 - the bullbar comes with a big black (thick) washer on its lower mounting point. I couldnt really be sure what this is for, but I used it to pack out the back mounting of the RP, so that the RP was evenly spaced off the chassis. (the bullbar spaced it at the front and the big black washer at the back. seemed like that was the right thing to do, as the black washer was the same thickness as the BB mounting bracket.
    7 - the back mounting hole is a perfect fit for the bolt. about 15cm further back on the chassis there is a rectangle hole and after a little bit of wire bending, it takes about 5 minutes to sort out your technique and slip the nut on a wire, into the chassis so you can bolt into it. (i was worried about how tricky this would be, but it was simple)
    7.5 - (afterthought point) - i have seen guides where people fold the little plastic guard up out of the way and others where people were all panicked about the washer bottle on the driver side... ignore all this, there is no issue at all.
    8 - loosely put the bolt through the front of the mount and the bullbar, so that you have it all lined up correctly. then it is helpful to have a second pair of hands to swing the RP up and hold it in position while you position the nut-o-wire and slip the bolt through the spring washer, the flat washer, the RP, the big-black-spacer-washery-thing, the chassis and into the waiting wire-o-nut.
    9 - get it all nice and tight with a socket, then break out the torque wrench.
    10 - the instructions say to tighten it to 115-165nm (if i recall correctly). I selected 145nm for no good reason. fortunately a mate of mine had a thumper of a torque wrench which could do this, but i was surprised to find that this was probably no tigher than what i could have achieved with a big socket and a bit more of that aforementioned 'old-man-noise'. in short, bloody-tight.
    11 - the last thing i did was to snip off the wire tails for the rear mounting bolts, just inside the rectangle chassis holes. i bent them so that they are hovering in mid-air so that they dont rattle on anything, but left them visible so that if i even need to take these things off, i can grab them with something before i start!

    I really hope that someone finds this useful. I have searched earth for a nice and clear explanation for my setup and so far i think that this is the only one.

    PS, I assure you that i am in no way affiliated with marks4wd, but i am pretty happy with their product and service. Would be nice if they bothered to update their installation manual to include this information though!.

    Floyd.

    Comment


    • Good work. I brought the same one and received yesterday. Didn't attempt to fit them. But now i know what i am doing. I paid $88 with postage. Cheers
      Pearl white kakadu rolling on fuel hostage 18" with 285 60 18

      Comment


      • Originally posted by TheFloyd View Post
        7.5 - (afterthought point) - i have seen guides where people fold the little plastic guard up out of the way and others where people were all panicked about the washer bottle on the driver side... ignore all this, there is no issue at all.
        Thanks for the detailed instructions.

        Washer bottle clearance is only an issue on the V6. The plastic guard needs to be trimmed to make room.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Theodor View Post
          Phew! What a read.

          So after such a long thread, I'm wondering if anyone has installed one or two ARB recovery points on their 150s? I've heard that some plastic section needs to be cut. I've also heard you may have to drill a hole into the chassis. I just wanted to confirm what has been people's experience. I've installed some other ARB gear and their instructions are usually comprehensible. But obviously they don't supply instructions unless you've purchased the product.

          T
          Fitted a RH side ARB recovery point last night, Took about three hours. Managed to to it without removing the ARB Deluxe Bullbar. Instructions say you have to but I used a HighLift jack to support the one side as I removed all the mounting bolts and crumple plate. Probably a big dangerous but I was working on my own as all my mates were fishing :-)
          One bolt will drop off inside the chassis rail but it's not too hard to recover with your little finger.

          Comment


          • Whereabouts did you get yours for $88 Skprado?

            Comment


            • Originally posted by jongrant View Post
              Whereabouts did you get yours for $88 Skprado?
              Here you go mate from ebay

              https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191958482153

              Cheers
              Pearl white kakadu rolling on fuel hostage 18" with 285 60 18

              Comment


              • Will these fit standard 150 V6 with out bullbar ?? Also would these impede on brown Davis bash plates or won't interfere ??
                Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

                Comment


                • Easy job. All up take me 1 hour 30 minutes to do. That includes looking for tools n packup. More time i have to spend to find the bolt is inside the chassis than other parts. Here are somepics after all done.







                  Pearl white kakadu rolling on fuel hostage 18" with 285 60 18

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by malloc View Post
                    Thanks for the detailed instructions.

                    Washer bottle clearance is only an issue on the V6. The plastic guard needs to be trimmed to make room.
                    No problem! Thanks for clearing up that point about the washer bottle, because i couldn't for the life of me work out what everyone was on about with this




                    Originally posted by Skprado View Post
                    Here you go mate from ebay

                    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191958482153

                    Cheers
                    That is a great price! This Kit looks exactly like what i bought too.
                    TheFloyd
                    Lurker
                    Last edited by TheFloyd; 09-07-2017, 06:51 PM.

                    Comment


                    • ..
                      TheFloyd
                      Lurker
                      Last edited by TheFloyd; 09-07-2017, 07:01 PM. Reason: Cant work out how to delete a post?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by malloc View Post
                        Thanks for the detailed instructions.

                        Washer bottle clearance is only an issue on the V6. The plastic guard needs to be trimmed to make room.
                        No issue here. May be gaurd was already trimmed.
                        Pearl white kakadu rolling on fuel hostage 18" with 285 60 18

                        Comment


                        • That is a great price! This Kit looks exactly like what i bought too.[/QUOTE]

                          It is same kit . Depends where to buy from. $88-$170. Cheers
                          Pearl white kakadu rolling on fuel hostage 18" with 285 60 18

                          Comment


                          • Ordered one tonight from the eBay listing Skprado mentioned. Use "C5OZ" in the coupon code and pay by Paypal to get another 5% off. Not much, but better in your pocket than theirs..

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by TheFloyd View Post
                              6 - the bullbar comes with a big black (thick) washer on its lower mounting point. I couldnt really be sure what this is for, but I used it to pack out the back mounting of the RP, so that the RP was evenly spaced off the chassis. (the bullbar spaced it at the front and the big black washer at the back. seemed like that was the right thing to do, as the black washer was the same thickness as the BB mounting bracket.
                              Hi Everyone,
                              Thanks Floyd for sharing your experience with the factory alloy bar. Mine's a 2012 GXL with factory bar and I did as you did and "took a gamble" - got the same RP kit from RoadSafe (RP-PRA150). I did the same as you and put the "big-black-spacer-washery-thing" from the front bolt between the chassis and the RP at the rear bolt hole. Even though it is the same thickness as the bullbar attachment there is still at least 5mm of a gap between the spacer and the RP (i.e. it's nowhere near thick enough to make the RP flush at the rear hole.) I even took the spacer from the other side and putting TWO of them was still not thick enough to fully close the gap.

                              Am I right in thinking that unless the RP is bolted on completely FLAT that it would put dangerous stresses on the bolt and RP?

                              Stacking up standard M12 washers under between the RP and the chassis doesn't seem like the best way to do things. A nice big thick "spacery-washery-thing" would be better. Anyone know where I can get something like that, or what the best way to space the point would be?

                              Attached photos of the spacer washer from the front bolt, and the passenger side with bolt holes.

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Click image for larger version

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                              Thanks for any suggestions!

                              - Simon

                              Comment


                              • Hi everyone

                                I have ordered the roadsafe recovery points. One thing that is not clear to me. What is the purpose of the nut-o-wire?
                                Can someone explain please.

                                Regards

                                Comment

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