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  • #16
    Has anyone changed the timing belt themselves ,90 series 1999 3.4 lt. as im about to do mine in the coming weeks .Its done 250 k and im the second owner . The log books stopped at 140k so unknown is the status . so ive started and changed diff oils and transfer case oils , all were surprisingly clean. Just thought if there were some tips i should watch out out for before i start the timing belt. ( yes i bought a water pump as well .) Perhaps there is a step by step thread on this but havn't found one .

    Also not sure about the auto trans service , debatable i believe. what have others done. ?

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    • #17
      Haven't done the job myself yet but there are several Youtube videos which look very useful. Have a search for 5VZ-FE timing belt. Good luck with the job.

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      • #18
        I did mine myself 18 months ago I think and it's a 98 model.
        There is a good YouTube video or two on the 5VZ-FE t'belt change but they do leave out some steps due to time. I've replied to some other people's comments on here and chipped in with some feedback regarding it in the past and did point out a few things in detail to pay special attention to, to save yourself a repeat process, hitting a snag and saving time if a 2 day weekend is your deadline. Have a look through the 90 section to find it.

        A Hayne's manual will help and will fill in blanks the YouTube videos leave out.

        To type out a step by step in depth process from start to finish would be a time consuming exercise for someone to do. When you remove things from the get go, write down what you removed and write a number next to it if you've never embarked on this kind of mechanical work before. Put it all back together in the reverse process for ease of reference.
        From what I can remember and to just point out a few things for you, you'll need to remove your radiator straight up, as you'll need the room. You can't do this job with it in there as you run a risk of damaging your fins when removing stuff behind it and the crank pulley. This will mean the two hoses carrying trans fluid into and out of the transmission cooler section of your radiator will need to be removed. You will lose a little bit of fluid in the process, but not much. Have a spare litre bottle on hand to top back up afterwards.

        I used the torque of the starter motor to loosen my crank bolt to save heaps of time with a 450mm breaker bar resting on the chassis rail. Just a quick tick on and off of the starter motor will loosen the bolt. It's safe if you do it very quickly and not actually starting the motor. You can also use a longer breaker bar and rest the bottom on the ground and use the starter motor the same way. You'll need to buy a harmonica balancer puller kit to get the crank pulley off mostly likely as it'll be on tighter than your hand strength can remove. I bought one from Supercheap for $30 or so. I could only get 2 of the 3 bolts I think into the pulley itself, so where 3rd bolt would've gone in, I C clamped that side onto the pulley nice and tight. You'll then be winding the pulley off the backing behind it with a central fine tipped bolt that comes with the harmonic balancer puller kit.

        When re-tightening the crank shaft bolt back up I had to make an SST (special service tool) to keep the crank sprocket from freely turning in the process. I made mine quickly and cheaply out of a 500mm length of hardwood sleeper (50mm x 200mm) as I don't own welding equipment to make a steel one and didn't want to spend the $250 to buy one from Toyota. I measured out 3 holes and drilled them out in the correct position into the timber. The outside 2 holes are smaller for bolts to go through into the crank shaft pulley. The centre hole was larger for a socket extension and 19mm socket I think it was to go onto the crank bolt. The 500mm length of the sleeper made it just long enough to rest on the passenger side chassis rail while I tightened the bugger out of it with the torque wrench. I've still got the SST in the shed too for my next 90 series that I'll buy in a couple of years with less kilometres on it.

        With your water pump, take your time with it to make sure you don't have to re-do it if it leaks which trust me would be a total pain in the ar*e. When you've removed it and have to clean the surface of the engine block mating surface, make sure you go over and over and over with scraping off any left over gasket material and clean several times with a cloth and metho afterwards. Look it over with a fine toothed comb and make sure that surface is free of grit and tiny bits of gasket material. Buy a tube of Toyota Black FIPG for $38 or so when re-fitting your water pump. It's excellent stuff, but gets tacky within 5 minutes so work carefully but quickly when refitting the pump. It's very important to make sure you apply a 4mm bead of FIPG to the water pump. Apply it around the bolt holes too and don't dab it down flat under any circumstance during this process. Remember, a 4mm bead. Carefully and without too much force, press the gasket onto the water pump and manoeuvre slightly so all the bolt holes are roughly centred. Now do the same 4mm FIPG bead on the gasket. Then very carefully and slowly position the water pump onto the engine block. Make sure none of the thermostat bolts poking out break the FIPG bead you've created. Hand screw in all the bolts from opposite end to opposite end working your way into the middle. Now tighten them up bit by bit the same way. After tightening up bit by bit 3 times or so for all bolts you should then be able to torque up to 20nm. Bang! Your 4 or 5 minutes are up. Preparing and fitting your water pump carefully and properly will ensure you've done a good job and it'll last. Do it half assed and you'll be repeating this process after you've put everything back together and top it up with coolant only to realise it leaks.

        You'll need a vice to compress your timing belt tensioner when fitting it if it's not already pre-done in the timing belt kit.
        You may need some patience when trying to line up the TDC (top dead centre) markings on both cam shaft sprockets when fitting the new timing belt. If you turn them a touch too far to the left or right they'll flick over a quarter of a turn quickly with no warning. Watch your head if it's hanging over them and you've got a socket wrench attacked to the bolt. A 2nd pair of hands won't go astray here. I did mine by myself and I was working on it for about 20 minutes before getting it right. I swore a bit during this part. You'll have to have both cam shaft sprocket TDC's ever so slightly off position with the crank sprocket off a little bit more to get your timing belt on in correct timing while pressing the belt in tight in between the crank sprocket and belt tensioner. You'll then pull the pin on the belt tensioner and it'll press the tensioner pulley to the into the belt to make it pull on all the pulleys nice and tight. When this is turn your crank sprocket one tooth clock wise most likely. It's a bit had to explain. But have a vice handy incase you mess this up and need to re-set the belt tensioner when trying again. Be careful with the crank sprocket position when lining up for correct timing. There will be a dimple at 12 o'clock just above the sprocket which is irrelevant and a false TDC marker. Line the fine lined notch up on the sprocket with the 0 which is positioned at about 1 o'clock I think it was. If you're one or two teeth out with your timing and try to start the car it won't start until it's corrected.

        They were the tougher bits from memory. Also removing your air con compressor to gain access to the belt tensioner can be a p.i.t.a. as well as re-fitting it. It may take some time.
        Replacing the timing belt and water pump is not a difficult job by any means, and everything I've said will make perfect sense when you've got everything apart and are working on it yourself.

        Replace your alternator, power steering and air con belts during this job. Tension the belts up pretty tight or you'll get a squeal when starting the motor after a few days/weeks from the belt(s) slipping.

        When you've topped up your radiator let the car run for a while with the radiator cap off to get all the air bubbles out to eliminate any hot spots.

        Oh, and buy a new thermostat too while you've got everything apart. They're only cheap to buy. The timing belt and or water pump kit should come with a new seal for it. No need to put FIPG on the thermostat seal.

        There may be something else to be mindful of that I missed, but it's been a while since I did it. Look up other 90 series pretrol engine threads for more info too. Gather as much info as possible and watch the YouTube vids a few times to familiarise yourself.
        Brett1979
        Avid PP Poster!
        Last edited by Brett1979; 18-09-2017, 09:48 PM.
        2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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        • #19
          Double post.
          Brett1979
          Avid PP Poster!
          Last edited by Brett1979; 18-09-2017, 08:59 PM.
          2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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          • #20
            Thanks modvrs, and thanks Brett1979 for the detailed rundown. Ive done timing belts before and i know they sometimes are a devils game.i just havent done one of these.
            I will take your advise fellas and watch videos first and check out some more threads , (well i'll keep trying to find them )
            There is also wine noise that has started about a mounth ago . I have discarded now the diffs , disconected alternator ,not found the sound coming from external places . so i imagine a bearing on the water pump or a tensioner. hopefully my thoughts will be correct and the bugger of a noise (light as it is ) will be gone after this job.....

            What does it take to get rid of the lurker label.... As' lurker'' it feels one step back from a ''stalker''. LOL.
            Last edited by Tonz; 19-09-2017, 08:44 PM.

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            • #21
              I had the same whine noise you've got at one stage. I degreased the motor once and it immediately appeared when I started the car next. I thought it was one of the pulleys or something. At that time my water pump had just started leaking through the bearing weep hole so maybe it was that besting, who knows. It only appeared on a cold idle at the time and went away after the car warmed up, then eventually disappeared. I think a slightly loose/sagging belt can also be the culprit, as well as a pulley. I can't remember how many posts it takes to get rid of the stalking underwear thief tag, maybe 25? Just comment on any posts that appeal to you until the peeping Tom label goes away.
              Brett1979
              Avid PP Poster!
              Last edited by Brett1979; 20-09-2017, 08:14 PM.
              2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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              • #22
                Well all parts have arrived so its saturday timing belt and trans service.

                Radix has has 27 posts and still has lurker badge , but, Mallory Black has 53 posts and is called a junior member.

                Ah it will be good for someone to call me a junior again.I remember when i was young blah blah blah...:mrgreen:

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                • #23
                  Job done , yes it takes some time to get it done. The main issue was getting off the aircon ,on top of it durring the reinstall one bolt thread seemed damaged ,so a retap was needed . long and slow was the process , overall the aircon took hours . the main pully bolt was on hard as a rock, otherwise it was all good .

                  After i did a full trans service , bugger the filter i ordered was wrong so all i could do at that stage was clean the old one . it came up looking new.
                  te drive on sunday was good .
                  Btw . the lower markings showed the timing belt was out by a link.so it was installed that way or that is how much the belt stretched. Anyway its perfect now , except for one thing , it still has that wine sound . . im confused with it .
                  Last edited by Tonz; 24-09-2017, 02:30 PM.

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                  • #24
                    just did a few last things , changed the alternator in the hope that the wine noise goes. .. it seems that the motor is quieter , but the wine noise persists . bugger . got no time to worry now as leaving for frazer in a few days. there is no symptoms of anything like a change in running or stability .... its running perfectly , both with power and consumption and gears are running super smooth.

                    Also just changed the fuel filter , what was coming out of that was as black as a dark night at twin peeks lol . Im surprised that its been running well lately after seeing the condition of that filter that hasnt been changed since the beginning of time.... exaggerated true, but it makes you wonder how many years its been there.
                    Well fingers crossed that wine noise doesnt cause me problems . Just thinking now that bearing molded inside the support of the free flowing fan, was a little noisy when i had it off . maybe it was that one . Running out or things to change , after that there is the pully that is the adjuster for the aircon , i think it is.

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