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Will the alternator charge my second battery with a dual battery set-up???

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  • thanks mate.
    150 GXL - ARB bar, Winch, 9" spots, rhino rack, 32" LED bar, Snorkel, 2" lift, AT's, Dual batts, UHF, 40L fridge, KAON cargo barrier - rear door table

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    • Originally posted by LeighW View Post
      You can use a booster in all Prado's up to but not including the new 2.8ltr model.
      Does it matter which brand? Some are cheaper than others. Are they not the same thing?
      150 GXL - ARB bar, Winch, 9" spots, rhino rack, 32" LED bar, Snorkel, 2" lift, AT's, Dual batts, UHF, 40L fridge, KAON cargo barrier - rear door table

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      • Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
        Hi and here is the contact for Alternator Voltage Booster Fuse

        http://www.hkbelect.com/
        Thanks, just ordered!
        <Rob> '12 Prado GX - https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/general/my-rig-build-up/32702-i-m-back-with-a-2012-150-gx-toorak-tractor

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        • Depends on the level of protection your after.
          HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

          Comment


          • Originally posted by LeighW View Post
            You can use a booster in all Prado's up to but not including the new 2.8ltr model.
            What's the story with the 2.8?
            [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

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            • Originally posted by D4D View Post
              What's the story with the 2.8?
              In a galaxy far far away tightening emission rules were the reason for a whole new engine. While logic may have suggested modifying the existing engine or using an engine from a sister company those in the decision making process opted for a new design. Smaller capacity with different design and different turbocharger to achieve the same output as before but promising better emissions and driveability. They stuffed it royally.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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              • As above and they also changed the charging setup so that it is now no longer possible to use a booster in the new Prado.
                HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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                • If i knew what i was doing i'd rip apart the 2.8s alternator and fit a conventional old style regulator , putting out 14.2V. but then it would throw all sorts of canbus codes , and i'd be in more strife!!

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                  • Originally posted by nudgebar View Post
                    If i knew what i was doing i'd rip apart the 2.8s alternator and fit a conventional old style regulator , putting out 14.2V. but then it would throw all sorts of canbus codes , and i'd be in more strife!!
                    why not start with isolating the wires controlling the alternator one at a time. maybe with just the comms wire disconnected it'll revert to a fail-safe fixed output without error codes?
                    Cheers
                    Micheal.

                    2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                    2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                    Comment


                    • Actually it may not, the ECU alternators I have looked at have a fall back mode where if they alternator looses communication with the controlling ECU it goes into a fall back mode whereby it reverts to constant voltage charging, ie similar to what happens in the models where you can turn off the smart charge function.

                      If you look at Toyotas service manual for the 2.8ltr it indicates if there is a charging issue, to interrogate the ECU and check if there are any stored codes. Now I'm only surmising so this may not be correct but I suspect if the charging systems plays up fault codes are stored but no check light will come on. From memory there is still the usual alternator fail light lead at the alternator, and this is used to bring up the alternator fail lamp on the dash.

                      Disconnecting the ECU control wire at the alternator may simply cause the alternator to revert to fixed charging with no indication that anything is wrong. Others use this fact to get round the smart charge function, search for "green wire mod" on the net.

                      As the alternator is controlled by the ECU it should be possible to turn it off similar to turning off the EGR function if you know someone who has the ability to locate the control and flash the ECU. There may even be a switch already there, it took the Mazda techs a long time before they discovered it could be turned off, unfortunately few of the factory tech if any actually seem interested in how the engine systems work or play to find out what you can and can not do.
                      LeighW
                      Avid PP Poster!
                      Last edited by LeighW; 17-01-2018, 07:33 PM.
                      HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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                      • thanks , i looked at the circuit diagram , the alternator is connected to the Canbus via the instrument panel , so canbus may be the best option.

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                        • Well I don't know what to think of it. I read about reducing voltage feedback through diode voltage drops to achieve a higher output voltage than design intent, DC to DC converters the other option for "smart alternators", "smart alternators" in marketing somewhat tied to emission controls. In my mind an energy demand cannot be reduced by an energy source, only via the load demand being reduced. The charging current to a battery can be reduced by lowering charging voltage, same for filament based light bulbs and fans. My observation based on a Prado 90 series and now also on a MY2014 -150 series the alternator has a voltage droop that seems to be related to alternator temperature. Both high loads and high under bonnet temperatures have a similar affect of output voltage going down. There is no "smarts" reset when stopping and restarting the engine while still hot, no charging boost I can see. I can only see high output voltages when started cold. Driving in summer with aircon on in traffic has the lowest voltages, in winter and highway speeds it's looking as good as ever. This all makes sense, in high temperature situations battery charging is just enough and lights dim a bit. In a way it is self regulating as another contributor was eluding too. In the old times no alternator would burn out. Today, not so. We have a lot more constant power loads. Regulating power supplies in computer circuits, LED drivers and DC to DC charges just draw more current as voltage drops. So a drooping alternator voltage doesn't help, it makes things worse, alternator losses increase with current and heat. However battery charging current is still regulated by voltage. So yes one can see that raising the alternator voltage by reducing feedback will actually boost battery charging. I would suggest however that it may be to the detriment of the alternator life expectancy. I could only accept temperature recordings before and after as proof that all is good, but have never seen such prof anywhere. There is a rule of thumb in engineering that for every 10 degrees temperature rise service life decreases by half. The alternator in the 90 series lasted some 280000kms and 18years, so reports that all is well after three years might be good enough for some, but it is not proof that a mod has no effect. The 90 series alternator started going bad when adding a high power light bar and a 20A DC to DC charger to the mix. Had thought just brushes had finally worn out, but unbelievably they were still OK, but two diodes where shorted. Well may be old age and coincidence, but the alternator characteristics on my 150 is just about totally the same as it was in the 90. With just 10 degrees ambient driving with head lights on the alternator temperature was 60degrees. Add 30 degrees for a hot day and it will be about 90 degrees. Now throw in aircon raising air temps further and a decent battery charging current and things will get real hot. In my opinion the stock alternator is perfect for the Prado if left stock. The dual battery system we think of in Australia is not the same as two cranking batteries joined together in cold climate zones. Our accessories in modified rings need more energy, run the fridge, charge deep cycle batteries back up, may van fridge and batteries. This is in my opinion too much for a stock alternator.

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