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Spot/Driving light install on TJM Type 13 winch compatible bull-bar

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  • Spot/Driving light install on TJM Type 13 winch compatible bull-bar

    I've had a look around on PradoPoint and there doesn't seem to be any other Spot/Driving light install the same as this one, so I apologise if I'm accidentally covering something that has already been done (or if this is in the wrong area).


    Here are the before and after pictures and I'll run through the steps after.


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    Firstly, am I afraid of the dark? No, not really, but I like having plenty of light so that I can have a lot of warning if there is any potential for suicidal animals to chose my Prado as their method of exiting this cruel world.


    On the bull-bar on my Prado are 2x 55w 7” Eurobeam HID driving lights (from Arco Imports) and 2x 55w Narva Compac 100 Halogen spot lights (fitted with Philips 55w X-tremeVision bulbs).


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    The reason for both HID and Halogen lights is that the HIDs have a warm-up delay when started from cold, so the Halogens 'bridged the gap' and provide 'instant' light until the HIDs have warmed up. The Halogens are also handy when constantly changing from high-beam to low-beam (and vice-versa) due to other traffic and rather than constantly going through the warm-up cool-down cycle on the HIDs it's easier to just stick to the Halogens (and I imagine, better for the HIDs to not be constantly powered up and powered down).


    When-ever I add extra accessories or do modifications to my cars, I always try to make everything look like it was meant to be there (or as close to it as possible) and I always aim not to drill an extra holes into the car or cut any of the factory wiring. This install is my effort to install the lights, switches, and wiring harnesses while still achieving my aim of no holes and no cut wiring.

    Mounting bar for Narva Compac 100s
    To begin with I made up a mounting bar for the Narvas to mount onto without fouling on anything else on the TJM bar or requiring that extra holes be drilled in the bar. I bought a 1m length of 3mmx40mm flat bar aluminium and then bent it into shape using a bench vice, soft mallet, and set square (to achieve 45° angles). The approximate measurements are in the 2nd photo.

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    Next, I measured and drilled the holes for the HIDs and then performed a check to ensured it fitted.

    More to follow

  • #2
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    Then the same for the Narvas.

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    Once I was sure that the bar fitted correctly and looked evenly spaced, I painted it using some aerosol paint cans for metal painting. I gave it 1x coat of etch primer, 2x coats of black paint, and 1x coat of clear paint (would have used 2 coats but I ran out of time). I'm no paint expert but I've found that applying coloured paint directly to aluminium in the past has achieved less than satisfactory results. Using etch primer seems to do the trick (those of you playing at home that are paint experts, of course, either already know this or actually know what the correct thing to do is). And here is the end result


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    More to follow

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    • #3
      Wiring Harness and Relays
      While I was waiting between coats of paint on the mounting bar, I started with mounting the wiring harness and relays into the engine bay. To give me a mounting point for the relays I took a spare bracket I had lying around from a central locking kit installation I did on another car.


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      And then fashioned it into a suitable shape to fit in the engine bay just above the fuse and relay box on a D4D engine.


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      I mounted the bracket, using the existing bolts for the fuse box and the forward bolt of the fuel filter bracket.


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      I used a $20 wiring harness from Super Cheap, simply because the harness itself is fine as long as you deal with the bits where they have scrimped to save money (which I'll cover as I go) and also that the last time I made my own driving light wiring harness it cost more than $20 is worth to me in both time and materials and looked worse.


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      • #4
        I mounted the relays and fuses as per the picture below, but realised the flaws in this set-up pretty quickly. The flaws being that the relays prevent the cover for the factory relay box to be opened with ease and the fuses prevented the factory fuse box from being opened with ease.


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        Some of the other flaws were that the crimping of the wires into the fuse holders isn't adequate and pull out with very little pressure and the supplied relays aren't the best quality. The base of one of the relays I ended up with would detach from the body on one side very easily and jam the switch contacts inside the relay causing the relay to activate when ever the fuse was inserted. I ditched this relay and replaced it with another relay I had in the toolbox – I could imagine other road users (and Mr. Plod) getting very annoyed with me if my HIDs suddenly decided to activate without my intervention.....
        To solve the problem of the relays and fuses fouling the factory fuse and relay boxes, I made up some more brackets out of more central locking kit brackets I had lying around, to move the relays down and further inside the inner guard and also changed the fuse holders for a weather-proof 6-way fuse box that I had from another project.


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        For an end result of


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        High beam trigger and Switches
        In order to get the relays to activate when the high beams are on you generally need to attach the trigger wire to either the high beam line at the bulb end of the factory wiring loom or at the high beam line coming from the indicator stalk.
        Having once had to re-wire the entire under-dash ignition system of a Hyundai Excel for someone, I can assure you that I try to avoid playing with under-dash wiring looms as much as I possibly can so that took the indicator stalk out of the equation, leaving the high beam wire to the bulb.
        Rather than cut the high beam wire and solder in a connection, or attach a 'scotch-lock' terminal (although both possible solutions, I prefer not to use either) I decided to make an extension to the wiring harness and add in my own connection points for the trigger wire.



        I went down to Repco and bought a H4 bulb wiring base and a cheap H4 halogen globe.


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        All I wanted the cheap H4 globe for was it's base to plug into the factory wiring harness, so I put an old shirt around the glass portion of the globe, put it into the bench vice and tightened the vice slowly until I heard a loud pop and the globe broke, being careful to stop as soon as it broke so that the internal elements of the light weren't damaged.


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        • #5
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          I then removed the jagged bits of glass and wire elements, leaving just the three middle 'poles'.

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          Then I bent the end of each 'pole' into a loop and used that to solder the H4 base and the additional trigger connections onto, with heat shrink completely covering each 'pole' to prevent any chance of shorting out. The blue heat shrink is the high beam, the red is the low beam, and the black is earth.


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          I then attached the connections and ran electrical tape around the whole loom to add some protection, which also added some rigidity so that it shouldn't be able to break through flexing.
          Now the factory wiring loom plugs into this extra loom and the extra loom plugs into the back of the headlight globe (which were changed out for Philips X-tremeVision H4s at the same time).


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          For the dash switches, I cut the supplied switch off the wiring loom and fed the remaining wiring through the firewall, and through the existing wire guides under the dash up to the blank switch positions near the electric mirror controls. I bought some genuine Carling switches with blue lenses and appropriate labelling from Custom Rockers. Using a Stanley knife and a file I 'adjusted' the shape of the hole so that the Carling switches would fit without issue (I didn't actually get any pictures of this part as we had a storm approaching and I was keen to get finished, but here's a picture of where they are mounted).


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          • #6
            I wired the switches up so that the bottom light would light up as a 'dash activation' light (and the switch can be found in the dark) and the top light would light up to indicate that the lights were turned on, so they would only light up in the on position with the high beams active. I figured that I would have no need to be playing with the switches if only the parking lights were on so I wired the bottom lights up to the low beam trigger that I included on the wiring harness I made. It took me around 2 secs when testing the install to realised why I am an idiot with this idea, as the low beams are not powered up when the high beams are active the bottom light turns off when the high beams are on and isn't completely representative of how the lights operate. It probably would have made more sense to have the bottom lights activate when the high beams are on and so indicate when the spot/driving lights are able to activated. This is pretty easy to fix and I'll get around to it one day.


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            After spend a few nights driving with the lights on, I've found that the filament bulbs in the switches warm up considerably, so down the track I'm going to convert them LED. I've got a couple of spare switches lying around that I can tinker with and I've noticed that Trekrider has already had a go at it – http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...witches-to-LED.


            Mounting of Lights and Bar
            When mounting the bar for the Narva lights, I put some felt padding under the bar so that it didn't scratch against and create wear on the TJM bull bar.


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            And did the same for the brackets for the Narva lights

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            Mounted them all, and this final result during testing

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            And here they are after alignment (and a day of driving on the Pacific Highway)

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            • #7
              Great work and detail on your post
              2012 Pearl White VX, 3.0 Litre D4D Auto, Wynnum 2.5T Tow Bar, OME Lift, TJM Airtech snorkle, TJM diff breathers, Redarc EBRH, Projecta DBC100K, Lightforce XGT, EBC Nudge bar, Custom Recovery Points, TG150, ARB compressor, Pioneer Platform, Kaymar #K7123 /CDQ2195, 697 A/T's, Tin's DC trans cooler, MaxTrax on TraxRax, TJM DBS, Piranha Tray...

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              • #8
                Thanks!

                Cheers,
                Jonesy

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                • #9
                  Awesome effort there mate, looks good! Excellent write up!
                  2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

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                  • #10
                    Cheers Matty

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