My 120 waterpump was leaking by the time it got to 100,000km and that apparently was quite common.
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Does Timing Belt need to come off to replace Water Pump? - 1kzte
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My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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thanks for the replys guys. im still deciding whether i touch it or leave it at the moment, the old "if it aint broke dont fix it" is making me think i should leave it and perhaps just get a spare pump and just take the main pump assembly (front part) on our big trip, as has been mentioned here; that is the part that tends to break and i could swap it out quite easily and continue on and then fix the whole pump on return.
truck has currently has 165k on it, but i am not sure if pump had been changed before we bought it at 90k.
Cheers,
Scott.
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I purchased a replacement water pump for mine and it came with the rear housing included (Japanese build part not made in china ) I too have been in the game a long time and would at least replace or re seal the rear housing whenever the water pump bolts are loosened . I've just returned from a trip towing my caravan in 46deg temps and i'm glad I spent the extra time replacing the rear housing and gasket. it gives you piece of mind that it will hold up. If this was a customers car I would be doing the same . the customer won't come back thanking you for saving them a few dollars on extra labour to replace everything but they will come back pissed off when the cars broken down in some small town and their holiday is ruined waiting for a workshop to fix it especially during a holiday period2008 Prado VX 3Ltr D4D Auto Dual Batteries , Soverign Bullbar with Avenger Mako TDS9500lbs Winch, Ironman Snorkel, Hayman Reese heavy duty Tow Bar Gme uhf Tx3100, Double din Radio, Gps DVD, Bluetooth , Narva HID Driving Lights , Pedders Trakryder Suspension, BFG A/T, Foxwing, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, Alternator Voltage Booster
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HI Mackay and thanks heaps for the write up. Cannot tell you how helpful these tech articles are.
On the replacement pump. What is the thinking on genuine v others?
I reckon mine is ready to be replaced. Tiny amount of coolant being used and a very very fine almost pink dry mist on the timing cover as if its being flung out by the spinning fan.
cheers2009 120 V6 Auto. 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armours. Bilsteins and Kings Springs.
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Originally posted by muzza_ View PostI purchased a replacement water pump for mine and it came with the rear housing included (Japanese build part not made in china ) I too have been in the game a long time and would at least replace or re seal the rear housing whenever the water pump bolts are loosened . I've just returned from a trip towing my caravan in 46deg temps and i'm glad I spent the extra time replacing the rear housing and gasket. it gives you piece of mind that it will hold up. If this was a customers car I would be doing the same . the customer won't come back thanking you for saving them a few dollars on extra labour to replace everything but they will come back pissed off when the cars broken down in some small town and their holiday is ruined waiting for a workshop to fix it especially during a holiday period
So there s a fair bit more work involved.
Originally posted by tassie tiger View PostHI Mackay and thanks heaps for the write up. Cannot tell you how helpful these tech articles are.
On the replacement pump. What is the thinking on genuine v others?
I reckon mine is ready to be replaced. Tiny amount of coolant being used and a very very fine almost pink dry mist on the timing cover as if its being flung out by the spinning fan.
cheers
Toyo make quality parts right? But their pumps are terrible for leaks, so go & buy a bursons pump, they are a GMB in a motor gear box, good Japanese pump. They are a good name in the auto trade those GMB pumps.
With the 1kd, once you fit up a GMB, you are set up similar to a 1kz, you can just change the pump, without the housing if you ever had another leak. IMO silly set up on the 1kd.
There are a kit of brands out there to choose from & I usually go for GMB, but do fit genuine or other at customers choice.
Note: there is no issue with changing the pump only, the rear housing is pretty well stuck to the block & there is 2 bolts still under the timing belt back plate. Also on 1kd the alternator bracket stops it from moving outwards.
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Originally posted by tassie tiger View PostHI Mackay and thanks heaps for the write up. Cannot tell you how helpful these tech articles are.HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.
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Originally posted by Seamus View PostHey - cracking write up mackayvx. Thanks for going to the effort for gumbys like me.
Cheers
SeamusHERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.
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Reviving an old thread. I need to change my timing belt and would normally pay for a job like that but will be doing a bunch of work including the water pump that pretty much involves doing the belt anyway. So why pay someone when I will be there anyway.
My question is once Mackayvx removed the cam pulley what is to stop the camshaft from shifting during the process/after it has been removed. I know he used a large shifter but surely that would leave some play and when re-mounting the pulley it could no longer be at tdc.
Anyone got some suggestions to ensure this does not become a problem?
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