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A Random approach to a Bluestorm 150 GXL D4D automatic

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  • #31
    Looking fantastic mate, very impressed with that rear floor setup.
    -----------------------
    Daniel
    Toyota Prado 150 Series D4D VX Auto Graphite with a 2009 Jayco Hawk Outback
    My Rig Build Up - [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9064"]viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9064[/URL]

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    • #32
      Thanks guys, it's funny no one took much notice of the 120 but #2 son said to me that the 150 gets a lot of looks in the traffic. I have brought the 150 into work today as I have a bit to get with it later on and he was right. Sitting at lights there were lots of stares, and not just other Prado owners. Does look pretty good even if I say so myself, just wish I had a chance of throwing the bigger lifts that are available at it but there's no way sadly, too much legality risk. This time though I might actually look at getting some dedicated fun tyres since I have gone for a fairly soft option in the Pirellis.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

      Comment


      • #33
        I picked up the roofrack yesterday afternoon. It is a Jarram Tracklander 1800 x 1200 using the Rhino CXB feet as recommended by Jaram. As most of you are aware Rhino do not recommend the use of the CXB feet with the 150 because the factory rails on the 150 are larger than the 120. There are a couple of PPers who have successfully used the CXB feet so I was comfortable.

        Jaram advise to cut the tabs off the top of the CXB feet that normally slip into the heavy duty rack so that the CXB can fit up into the aluminium rail under the Jaram rack. No problem. I also spaced the feet under the M8 bolt to square up the feet and ended up using some 30mm long M8 cap head screws because the bolts supplied with the CXB feet are too short. Probably need to increase the spacer to 5mm thick so I will cut some from aluminium flatbar.

        The CXB mounts are a tight fit over the 150 rails but leaving the rubber grips out in the sun for 20 minutes makes them soft enough to conform to the shape and fit properly. Because I was doing several test fits I ended up leaving the rubber off for the moment.

        As for the rack itself it is typically Jaram and very well made. And it is light. CXB feet and rack comes in less than 25kg. Yes!!!

        But the spacing of the aluminium rails is not suited to the Prado roof rails and there is too much overhang with the feet only 550mm apart. You can use one of the other rails and offet the rack front or back but still one end or the other has too much overhang. I will call Jaram next week as there is an easy solution. If they aren't able to help I will weld some aluminium flat onto the ends of some aluminium unistrut and bolt that across in the right place.

        Anyway the pics:



        The rack is the perfect size for me. Long enough for the new solar panel to fit without shading and not too big to be a waste of space. I only put bulky lightweight stuff up there so 50kg is plenty of capacity. It would be easy to fit the 6 Rhino legs and bolt the rack in place for the full 100kg less the weight of the rack and feet but we only use the rack when we go away.

        Fitting is simple as well with the CXB legs bolted in the right place and then the rack dropped onto the rails and within 10 minutes it is bolted down.



        Here are the rails that are built into the base of the rack. If there was another rail mid point between the 2nd and 3rd front rail and same at the rear the rack would be a perfect fit.



        This is the spacing of the feet to have the rack centrally positioned on the roof rails and this is the typical overhang



        As I said I am happy to fix it and it wont be hard but it will be interesting to hear what Jarram have to say.

        The compressor is fitted and operational. No further pics because the Prado did a runner before I could get the camera!
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

        Comment


        • #34
          Well I have to admit to a failure in the auxiliary battery system. When I drilled eleventy six holes in the battery box and fitted rivnuts to bolt everything in I forgot to make provision for the ANL fuse holder that fuses the outlet from the BCDC1225 to the auxiliary battery. As the carpet was already on the lid I decided to use some heavy duty 3M foam filled double sided tape. This stuff is seriously sticky. Well it turns out that the flat area under the fuse holder wasn't sufficient area to hold the thing on the lid of the box and it fell free and dangled in space. So yesterday I grabbed and cut some scrap/spare 32 x 3 aluminium flat bar and drilled and tapped M4 holes to line up with the two holes in the fuse holder. Then the fuse holder was screwed to that which was then attached to the lid with the same double sided tape. It aint going anywhere now!
          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

          Comment


          • #35
            Spot lights wired up today. No chance to adjust and test them since a mother of a storm has rolled in. Nothing different about the install to most others. Stole trigger power off the black wire on the high beam unit (positive when on) and ran a wire back to the cabin where I used the switch provided with the TJM bar for the fog lights. Same switch as ARB Sidewinder offers so it is a neat fit. Picked up switch illumination from the 2nd start button green wire. Earthed the switch and trigger to the chassis.

            Came as something of a surprise to read SRS airbag 'down there' while I was lying on the floor looking for the grommet! Anyway no need to remove anything around the airbag. Lifted the scuff plate and front trim to give me better access to the innards. Sharpened a piece of 2.4 diameter TIG wire and pushed that trough the grommet between the bonnet release cable and rear window washer tubing.

            I mounted the relay close to the battery on a bracket that is next to the radiator. This left most of the cable runs nice and neat and then cable tied down the spot light feeds. I was hoping that the LEDs in the Britax Xray lights would be bright enough to use as DRLs and I would have wired them accordingly but they are barely visible in the day time and pretty pointless. Have to think of another alternative. I'm a bit paranoid that the blue storm blends into the background on a cloudy day.

            Another mod down and only 3,245.7 to go!

            Catch can next I think then diff, gearbox and transfer breathers then maybe a weekend off. I placed the catch can where everyone else has and I think I can make up a simple mount from a piece of 32 x 25 aluminium box section (I just happen to have lying around). Trim the two ends back to a single thickness of material and it will line up with a couple of captive nuts in the inner guard. One is empty the other looks like it has a horn bolted into it. Either way a simple fit up if there is enough clearance over the cables.
            mjrandom
            Out of control poster!
            Last edited by mjrandom; 31-03-2013, 05:22 PM.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • #36
              Spent today fitting the diff and box breathers and also fitting the catch can. The breathers were ok just a bit tedious and after a few hours all are extended into the engine bay and terminated on mini gearbox breathers.



              A few more words here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...Diff-breathers

              Catch can was pretty much as per others though I made up a bracket from some aluminium box to space the can off the inner guard and above the cable plug that is stuck to the guard. I tried for a while to fit a drain valve but ultimately gave up because there is just no where to get to the hose. I even added some 1/4" fuel line after the valve and ran that down the inside of the engine bay but again it is a pain to get to. So I just blocked the bottom. I might change my mind later but I will see how it goes for the moment.



              I will change this to a day light shot in the next day or so.

              I then took the Prado for a little drive behind the house.





              The ramp over clearance on this little hump seems less that the 120 by 20mm or so. Not sure if that is real or not. Approach angle is much better on the 150 and didn't even look like hitting, departure angle is probably about the same though still I had about 100mm clearance up and down.

              By the way this was climbed in 'going down to the shops' mode. I played a little in low range and with the centre diff locked but not much difference.

              Tomorrow I will wire up the volt / volt meter and then it is time for some playing and a bit of a rest from having hands in the 150 gizzards.
              mjrandom
              Out of control poster!
              Last edited by mjrandom; 06-04-2013, 06:54 PM.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #37
                Nice work mjr. Another "factory like" install on the breathers.
                2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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                • #38
                  Today I wired in the volt / volt meter. In the end I opted for the Baintech meter. There are cheaper options (much much cheaper) like the EvilBay digital voltmeters but I tried to make them fit neatly and just couldn't come up with a plan. I know there have been a few posts but I couldn't get my head around fitting these and making it look 100%. So I bought the Baintech. It has provision for two battery in feeds and a single common negative or earth. As my auxiliary is common with the main battery that wasn't a problem.



                  I fitted the meter down near the 4wd switch. The meter itself is smaller in diameter than the diagonal opening of the terrain switch (?) assembly blank. So I cut up some textured plastic from a plastic document folder and double sided taped that to the console. You can see that with the flash but under normal lighting it is pretty much the same as the original. I had to agress upon the fascia to make the meter fit but it was easily trimmed.

                  One thing I did was switch the common negative through a relay under the bonnet. This way the volt meter is off until the ignition is on. I couldn't see any point in having the meter running all the time despite its minute current draw. So I patched into the wiper motor cable that was running to the compressor and then mounted a relay next to the battery. Again very happy with the result.

                  This almost brings to a close stage one of the build. All the tedious stuff that seems to take forever to do. I am just waiting on a couple of bolt in rails from Jaram which I will fit to the Tracklander and then I am going to have a break from working on 4wds. Next weekend or the next will be test weekend!

                  While I did this today my grade 12 son wired up the spotlights in the latest Rodeo. Not much guidance needed and a very neat and tidy job. I think he understands that while it takes a bit longer to run the cable in conduit and tie it off neatly and hide wiring as much as possible in the long run it is better and you are likely to have fewer issues with cable rubbing through.
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    After a couple of weekends working on a mate's car and camper and a weekend shake down trip for the 150 I was able to do a bit more on it this weekend. No pics at the moment, to follow next weekend.

                    During the shake down I realised that I didn't have any additional power sockets running off the auxiliary to let me charge phones / iThings overnight. So I bought a dual USB point and single 12V outlet from Baintech which I mounted in the lid of the auxiliary battery box. I ran 6mm2 cable direct from the battery to the power outlet (fused 15A) and then piggy backed this (fused 2A) to the USB ports.

                    One of these http://www.baintech.com.au/baintech/...et-flush-mount and one of these http://www.baintech.com.au/sockets/b...nt-ciga-socket

                    My additional rails for the Tracklander roof rack arrived and I fitted these today. A slight hiccough in that Jaram made the rails at nominal size so I had some grinding to do. I set the rails so that they fit just inside the Toyota rail joins at the front and rear uprights. then marked the locations on the bottom chord of the roof rack and drilled and tapped to suit some M8 screws. Fitted up with loctite, lock washers and a suitable high strength adhesive, it is not going anywhere! I was planning to use three sets of CXB feet to hold the rack on the Toyota rails but wasn't able to offset the new rails enough. Rhino make spacers so I will get some of these and see if that will do the trick. I don't think it is really necessary but I figure it will help distribute the loads to all 6 mounting points. The best part? The rack, new rails and 4 CXB feet weighs only 24kg! Leaves 56kg which is plenty for what I usually carry. Takes two to fit because it is awkward loading from ground level but once sitting in the rails which only takes a couple of minutes, from there it takes a bare 5 minutes to bolt on or remove. Tighten the Rhino clamp screws and then the M8 bolts underneath the feet. Ideal.

                    I also picked up my new solar panel on Friday afternoon, 165W. Not an evilBay special so not a bargain basement price but well made with good quality fittings. The two panels are wired to a single Anderson plug. A basic controller is supplied but I have removed this. 6m of 5mm2 twin core cable is supplied also with Anderson plugs and a further Anderson plugged cable with alligator clamps. I tested the panel (s) yesterday and the MPPT controller in the DC DC charger starts charging the battery, even in quite low light. As it should. I will make up a Doc Wattson monitor with Anderson plugs to put in line to monitor solar input but ran out of time this weekend. I also didn't have any red Anderson plugs left.

                    Finally when I picked up the panel I bought a "kit" of LED lights and extension leads and switches and dimmers. One of the dimmers has a remote control! Luxury! A quick set up looks promising. Next weekend I will set up the gazebo and see how well it works. All up consumption of 4 off 500mm long bars and 2 off 250mm bars is 3A. The light bars have magnets in the frame and everything is IP68 so for all intents and purposes waterproof.

                    Pics to follow...
                    mjrandom
                    Out of control poster!
                    Last edited by mjrandom; 05-05-2013, 09:40 PM.
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Finished fitting the Jaram overlander roof rack on the weekend. Details here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...s-using/page17

                      I have settled for 4 CXB feet on two rails bolted to the Toyota factory rails in the normal manner. The only change was to add some 6mm Rhino spacers between the rack and the CXB feet. These let the feet sit better on the roof rack rails and also give me some more space to swing a spanner to tighten the cross rail bolts.



                      I still have to work out a way to fit the solar panel and also mount up an awning. The top frame is about 10mm narrower than the bottom frame side to side and at the back. I could simply bolt the awning frame to the uprights but I think I will try and make another system to allow me to rotate the awning around to the back. I am leaning towards a lever style like a Fred's arm but that can accomodate the different geometry of the Jaram rack. I will get some steel folded to the relevant shape and see how I go. For now the old sliding system will stay with the old rack and get used on the ute.

                      I fitted a couple of USB outlets and another 12V outlet to the auxiliary battery. This will let me charge phones and pads overnight.



                      Even though I have a fuse box in the battery box I decided these could be direct wired to the battery. I ran 6mm2 from the terminals to the 12V socket fused 15A and then piggy backed that to the USB sockets. The USB socket still uses a glass fuse which isn't ideal but I didn't think it was necessary to replace that with a blade fuse. I might pick up a mini blade in line holder and change it down the track.

                      I haven't posted up any pics of inside the battery box so here are a couple to show how the wiring is done.



                      This shows the Redarc BCDC1225 bolted to the battery box lid and the fused supply to the battery. Also shows the underside of the two new outlets I have run.



                      I have two power feeds coming in. One is for the solar panel and this is from a red Anderson plug at the bottom of the box. It is connected to terminal 87A of the Britax relay. A grey Anderson plug is connected to the main battery through a manual circuit breaker next to the main battery. This is connected to terminal 87. When the ignition is off or on accessories the relay is unpowered and terminal 87A is normally closed to the input of the BCDC1225. I expected that would mean that the terminals on the red Anderson plug would be live if the plug was not connected and I was a bit concerned about that however the BCDC isolates that side and only allows in feed. Immediately the solar panel is disconnected there remains voltage on the terminals of the Anderson plug but this quickly decays to 0V. Once the ignition is on a signal for the green wire next to the factory invertor is connected to the blue wire for the BCDC1225 and also trips the changeover relay so that terminal 87 is closed. All the negative terminals are commoned to a bolt on the battery box and the battery box and lid are connected with an earth strap which also stops the lid opening too far.

                      Very happy with how it is working. The auxiliary is in a better state of charge than my set up on the 120. I hooked up the new solar panel on the weekend and the charger worked its magic from that. The panel is a nominal 165W and given the weather on the weekend it did admirably getting to 150W peak at some point. I monitored the performance with a Doc Wattson monitor which showed a peak supply current of 10A.

                      So remaining work at this stage is to get some dead sheep for the seats. Front and rear this time. Extend the fuel tank breather now that I have found the little sucker. Sort out a mount for the solar panel which will probably mean welding some longer feet to proprietary solar panel clamps and bolting through the Jaram roof rails. Awning and awning mount and finally some holes in the new roof rails to bolt the Traxrax on.
                      mjrandom
                      Out of control poster!
                      Last edited by mjrandom; 23-03-2015, 11:08 AM.
                      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Great build up mjrandom !
                        2012 Pearl White VX, 3.0 Litre D4D Auto, Wynnum 2.5T Tow Bar, OME Lift, TJM Airtech snorkle, TJM diff breathers, Redarc EBRH, Projecta DBC100K, Lightforce XGT, EBC Nudge bar, Custom Recovery Points, TG150, ARB compressor, Pioneer Platform, Kaymar #K7123 /CDQ2195, 697 A/T's, Tin's DC trans cooler, MaxTrax on TraxRax, TJM DBS, Piranha Tray...

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Thanks VeeZeeSS. I see a few of us LS1ers on here. Should be compulsory for a pic of the Prado and LS beastie nose to nose!
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Oh another ls1 forum member? I use to have a have ve hsv tourer

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                            • #44
                              E2 Clubbie. Stock as a rock. Well... Not really. I have dropped a deposit on a Gen F. The one with a slot in the nose. Will be interesting I think. Hope.
                              mjrandom
                              Out of control poster!
                              Last edited by mjrandom; 15-05-2013, 09:06 AM. Reason: get the name right idiot
                              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                When I picked up my new solar panel I took a punt on a set of LED lights for the camp. Haven't had much of a chance to test them out due to weather and being away but this afternoon we set up the gazebo and fitted the lights up in the frame and gave it run tonight. Have to say I am mightily impressed. The kit I bought was a 6 LED set which comprises of 4 lights at 500mm and 2 at 250mm along with a host of connectors and dimmers/switches and splitters and extension cables. All the gear is stated to be IP68. One remote dimmer is included so you can leave the lights on until you are comforably in the tent then switch it all off. The lights are in an aluminium frame which has magnets at each end that are strong enough to support the weight of the light and cables.

                                It is hard to gauge given a long exposure could make a candle seem enough light but there is plenty of light to cook by and plenty for the main table. Enough to read a book or play games. Could easily read all the important inforamtion on the Cold Pressed Latte bottle! And to assess that it was empty



                                Happy to pass on contact details for anyone interested. I will still have a couple of gas lights to use as back up but I think I will grab another couple of each and put a light above the washing up table and also a couple in the back of the trailer to light up the pantry. The exisitng set up of 6 lights uses 3A. Given I will now keep the battery in the trailer topped up with a solar panel I reckon it is probably a self sustaining arrangement. That is a 6m x 4.5m gazebo by the way so lots of light.
                                mjrandom
                                Out of control poster!
                                Last edited by mjrandom; 18-05-2013, 06:44 PM.
                                My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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