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HOW TO: Replace a CV shaft / CV axle on a 90/95 Series Prado

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  • #16
    Glen,

    This install guide is a work of art...

    How long does one take to complete this job?

    Winston.
    Winston.

    White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

    Comment


    • #17
      Double post...
      Winston.

      White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

      Comment


      • #18
        Thanks John,

        If you don't mind, I'd like to incorporate your tips in the guide..?

        Could you explain the reason for using a genuine gasket on the front drain plug? IE, what difference it makes. I did use them originally but gave up after doing so many oil changes (diff failure, locker install, ratio install, ratio run-period, CV replacements, etc), I've been using standard aluminum and copper ones and had no issues. If it has anything to do with the torque ratings, then I should note that I don't torque the diff plugs - I use my own judgement which tends to result in a lower torque spec then original.
        glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by winniliss View Post
          Glen,

          This install guide is a work of art...

          How long does one take to complete this job?

          Winston.
          Thanks Winston

          1x CV with oil change would take 60-90 minutes if experienced, but a first timer should allow a few hours.
          glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

          Comment


          • #20
            Excellent Post, glen_ep! Very informative. I'll be referencing this in the coming weeks as I busted my CV tonight after running through a few bogs. Busted boot, Ball Bearings, Metal and Grease on the ground is not how I planned to end my night run!

            If I can get past Step #1 the rest seems fairly straight forward. The video is very helpful, thanks for posting it.

            Does anyone have a recommendation on where to pick up a spare CV? Is OEM the best way to go for a stock Prado?

            Comment


            • #21
              Hardest part I found was getting the axle nuts loose. I picked up a 35 mm 1/2 inch drive socket to do the change and end up using my rattle gun to get them off. 1/2 inch bar bent like a banana with a piece of pipe on the end of it. Also not sure if I got got by the Toyota dealer as he supplied two different seals, I did a comparison of the L/S and it looked the same as the R/S so as the dealer was shut when I did the job I left the L/S seal in place as I could not afford to break it getting it out.

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              • #22
                Axle nut should not be all that tight, it's only around 170 ft lbs.
                Most similar bearing designs have pre-set dimensions or shims to set the bearing pre-load correctly.
                These things don't.
                If the axle nut is overtightened, it has the effect of increasing bearing preload and the bearings will quickly disintegrate.
                Could be likened to over-tightening a pinion nut such that the compressible sleeve is reduced to the thickness of a washer.
                Mine lasted 500k's due to incorrect installation of the spacers which had the same effect, dramatically increasing preload.
                Apparently Subaru is having this exact problem with it's rears……
                Don't over tighten the axle nut.
                I'm not happy even with the piddly 170 ft lbs, went 150 on my new bearings.
                After a drive, you should be able to hand touch the CV and the hub.
                If the CV is hot and can't be hand touched, she's way too tight or maybe she wasn't greased enough on the dust seal faces.
                It gets expensive to stuff it up.

                Comment


                • #23
                  And I thought I was smart changing my own diff oil!

                  I have a little 3/8" drive hex socket for those diff plugs. Can really get some force on them to loosen tight plugs,
                  especially the drain. Also suggest application of anti-seize on the plugs to make next refill time easier.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Is it possible to not remove the inner cup if the purpose is just to replace torn boots? That way you don't have to drain the diff oil.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      If your getting to that stage remove it completely and reco it or replace. And the lip seals.

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                      • #26
                        I was just wondering if it's possible to tap the cv shaft into the hub from the outside with a heavy hammer hitting a light ball pein hammer that's already making contact and then pull it out of the hub from the other side by hand instead of having to remove the 4 bolts from the lower ball ball joint cast and then disconnecting that from the hub. I agree that it's not a good idea to torque those 4 little bolts up to the specified 80nm. I did that to start with when I replaced my lower ball joints.... Until I snapped the second bolt I went to nip up to that spec. I went 60 also. 80 will have you come so close to breaking those bolts for sure if you don't actually break one in the process. When it breaks halfway up the thread at close to 80 nm, then it makes getting it out a real pain. Re-connecting the hub properly and securely to the lower ball joint cast can be fiddly too prior to inserting & tightening up the bolts. It all takes time, so I was just wondering if it's possible to bypass having to do that.
                        2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          No Brett, If you don't undo the lower ball joint there's simply not enough compression room for the end of the axle to clear the drive flange.
                          But I found you can leave the tie rod end on. Unfortunately have done this job a few times lately so I'm learning all the tricks.
                          Have also given those 4-Toyota bolts the flick and I'm testing Unbrakos for the lower ball joint.
                          They're grade 12.9 (1080MPA) compared to a high strength bolt grade 8.8 (640 MPa)
                          I'll do a report after our next trip.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            While youve got it apart consider changing the lower balls

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by KZJ95W View Post
                              Is it possible to not remove the inner cup if the purpose is just to replace torn boots? That way you don't have to drain the diff oil.
                              If you're just replacing boots then yes you can pull the mid axle from the inner cup, leaving the inner stub axle in the diff, and work from there.
                              glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by carco View Post
                                Axle nut should not be all that tight, it's only around 170 ft lbs.
                                Most similar bearing designs have pre-set dimensions or shims to set the bearing pre-load correctly.
                                These things don't.
                                If the axle nut is overtightened, it has the effect of increasing bearing preload and the bearings will quickly disintegrate.
                                Could be likened to over-tightening a pinion nut such that the compressible sleeve is reduced to the thickness of a washer.
                                Mine lasted 500k's due to incorrect installation of the spacers which had the same effect, dramatically increasing preload.
                                Apparently Subaru is having this exact problem with it's rears……
                                Don't over tighten the axle nut.
                                I'm not happy even with the piddly 170 ft lbs, went 150 on my new bearings.
                                After a drive, you should be able to hand touch the CV and the hub.
                                If the CV is hot and can't be hand touched, she's way too tight or maybe she wasn't greased enough on the dust seal faces.
                                It gets expensive to stuff it up.
                                It's a good point you raise here. My Hayne's book said the axle nut has a torque setting of 235nm. When I removed mine for the cv shaft replacement I was expecting to have to jump up and down on the breaker bar for half an hour to crack it loose. I put my 750mm breaker bar on it and after the 3rd medium force attempt it came loose. I reckon it was only tightened to about 90-100nm. A little less than a wheel nut torque spec. I was glad because i was expecting that nut to be a bit of a headache for me to undo. When I re-tightened it at the end of the job I tightened it to 200nm. Didn't want to over do it. Plus the cotter's pin stops it from working loose anyway. I decided against applying a dab of red lock tight to the thread because the constant heat in the area would weaken the lock tight & break it down until it had little to no effect as that stuff doesn't like heat.
                                Brett1979
                                Avid PP Poster!
                                Last edited by Brett1979; 15-05-2017, 10:15 PM.
                                2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                                Comment

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