Alternator Replacement (150 Prado)

[MacroP Member Find all posts View Profile Close MacroP]

In the old days when going bush, you used to take a few spare engine belts, radiator hoses etc etc. These days we now have to take a spare alternator it seems

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

I'd buy a generator, you can get a "reasonable" one off Ebay for a couple of hundred,
in a pinch use this to charge the car battery via a good charger to keep you going.

Added bonus when no sun around you can use it to charge the batteries.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

Replaced by Toyota today. They said it was dead because no output, I tried to tell them about the clutch but they had no idea. I assume a failed clutch would give the same symptoms as a dead alternator?

[roadblock Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close roadblock]

Ok so just ticked over 180k and the battery light comes on. Strange noises from the engine bay. Pull in at the battery shop for a test. Alternator... Bugger!

Sourced a OEX 130A for $450 from Ashdown Ingram.

Read a few forums and finally found a workshop manual page online about replacing the alternator. Instructions include radiator removal. No thanks.

SWMBO and I set to replacing it and ended up finishing after about 6 hours. What a b@stard of a thing to work on! Bark off knuckles everywhere!

So now the battery light is gone but I am getting a whirring / squealing noise under heavy acceleration (high boost, think it's one of the flexible hoses that connect to the intercooler / cold aid induction system). So I tightened them up and now I have a horrid squeak coming from the serpentine belt like an idler pulley is on the way out!

Can anyone shed any light on what this could be (other than idler pulley bearing)?

How difficult is it to replace them?

Thanks,
Roadblock

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Roadblock.
If your belt is screaming after replacing the alternator it is most likely the alignment of the alternator.
Loosen the belt at the tensioner and check the alternator is 'centered' on the long bolt then re tighten both bolts.
You can gain easy access to the alternator from in front of the RHS wheel through the inner guard, remove the rubber flap.

Rusty.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

As the 120 and 150 are very similar i thought i would post this here as well.



Finally got the replacement alternator from the supplier. The clutch pulley had failed and was making all sorts of crackling noises after 20000 km.

Took a couple of pics from the inner guard area.

Step one:

Remove bash guard from under. Use a ratchet strap from the rear of the gearbox guard and a 14 offset ring spanner to pull the tensioner.







Pull the plugs from the rubber flap and lay over the chassis.

Original alternator in place.



Isolate the supply cable by undoing the 10mm bolt in the fuse box. Make sure you don't short it out. This saves having to take the battery terminal off and losing your presets on the radio and the clock.



10mm ring to remove the power wire off the alternator.
Remove the plug from the back of the alternator by pressing the tab and pulling (not on the wires).
12 mm socket on the bottom bolt, remove almost all the way out.
14 mm socket on the top bolt, remove all the way.

Now remove the small bolt and pull the alternator out through the inner guard.

Half way out.



New one in place.

The rest is a reverse of removing. Make sure you line the alternator central on the long bolt. If you don't the belt alignment could be out and the belt will chirp or scream. The hole for this bolt is oversize.
Don't tighten the small bolt until you have the long bolt centered.

Now tighten both bolts, re attach the power wire and cover, push the main plug in.

Replace the belt making sure all the ribs are in line.

Release the strap holding the tensioner and replace the bottom bash plate.



Tested at 14.1 just after starting with a voltage booster in circuit.

Lets see how long this one lasts.

Rusty.

[TurboD4D Member Find all posts View Profile Close TurboD4D]

Just so everyone knows. You can replace the pulley on the front of the alternator. Very easy to do. They say you need a "Special tool" You don't. A 17mm allen key attached to a rattle gun and it comes straight off. Replacement pulley $70. Goes back on the same way.
My pulley let go on OEM Alternator. Replaced unit with a Jaylec 130amp unit it died within 2 month got a new one on warranty. It died in less than 3 month when on a trip to Cape York. Had it rebuilt at the tip of Australia so you can imagine the cost. I had kept the OEM alternator that started all the problems. Replaced the pulley yesterday and will keep it for when the rebuilt one dies.

[Razorback81 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Razorback81]

TurboD4D
where did you get the pulley from for $70?

[TurboD4D Member Find all posts View Profile Close TurboD4D]

TurboD4D
where did you get the pulley from for $70?

BSC in Townsville

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Or buy from Amayama. $52 AU plus freight.



Would do this next time.

Rusty.

[Jayeb123 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Jayeb123]

Alternator covered under warranty afte water crossing?

Hi guys....did I read this right? Toyota covered under warranty after water crossing (assumed)?

Yes, we have had the dreaded alternator fail on us when we were up at the Cape last year. We had to swap batteries with the mates car every 2-3hrs until we got down to Mossman where we utilised our RACQ. The auto-electrican had replaced a few with a std aftermarket ALT that covers all Prados/Hiluxes from 2006 onwards. The ALT cost $350 and we were out of pocket about $465. It actually charges at a higher voltage than the OEM & didn't need to refit the Voltage Booster I had in there..... When we got home I phoned Toyota & they agreed to replace the ALT with a OEM one so I don't have any warranty issues.
Down side.... Is the charging voltage has been reduced, so I had to refit the Voltage Booster to get a decent charging voltage.....

[Keechy84 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Keechy84]

rob_macca67

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rob_macca67 how did you figure out it was the clutch pulley on the alternator? Haven’t had much experience with these, so not sure how to diagnose

[Donuts Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Donuts]

Long time reader, first time poster.
I am comparing aftermarket alternators to upgrade the output as it has a hard time with the trailer load. (240Ah trailer, 175Ah main+aux)
I am comparing the OEX & Jaylec alternators. Some links and part number below. Any thoughts or experiences from the crowd?
I have the HKB booster on order as well.

jaylec
https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/jaylec-65-8591-2
https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/jaylec-65-8591hd

OEX
https://aioex.azurewebsites.net/wp-c...pp-For-Web.pdf

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Neither.. Seen them both fail within a year.

Stay with Genuine Denso. You can buy a 130Amp Denso from Ashdowns for a couple hundred.

[Donuts Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Donuts]

Stay with Genuine Denso. You can buy a 130Amp Denso from Ashdowns for a couple hundred.

Hi Piggy - I can only find the 130A OEX (DXA552) alternator at Ashdowns. Do you have a part number for a Denso 130A alternator? I can only find OEM Denso 85A.