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  • Under bonnet 12v wiring

    Hello All,

    I'm about to start installing various electrical items, and although I've read many posts about dual batteries and 12v accessories, I haven't seen much in the way of how people have run cabling and installed relay's, fuses, etc.

    So… just to be clear this post isn't about which dual battery setup you have, etc, but what have you done under your bonnet in order to keep things as neat and tidy as possible with regard to wiring, relay’s, fuses, switches, and preferably without having drilled/screwed into underbody panelling to attach any of these items (i.e. using existing mounting points instead).

    To give you an idea of what I’m looking to install over time, I'm looking at either the Sidewinder or ARB/SBI12 dual battery setup, and in due course I'll most likely install:
    • Spot Lights
    • UHF
    • Under bonnet air compressor
    • In Dash USB socket (Air on board)
    • In Dash switches for spot and camping lights (Air on board)
    • Rear fridge
    • Rear camp lights
    • Rear USB and Cigarette sockets


    Cheers,

    Adrian
    2014 150 GXL D4D Facelift, White with Colour Coded ARB Deluxe Bar, Side Rails and Steps, ARB Recovery Point, ARB Intensities (1 x Flood, 1 x Spot), ARB Air Compressor on AMTS bracket, ARB 60L Fridge, OME 2” Lift, BFG AT2 265/70/R17, Dual Battery with RedArc SBI12, HR Tow Bar, Sandgrabba floor mats, Pioneer Platform, Outback Drawers, MaxTrax on TraxRax, Icom IC-450N UHF, The Wet Seat seat covers, AMTS tyre carrier spacer and telescopic light pole.

  • #2
    Mounting things under the bonnet is quite easy if your able to make your own brackets, the are heaps of unused holes and threaded stud to use.
    Quick example is the way i mounted my DC/DC charger.
    look behind the air filter and you will see 3 8mm studs, i made a bracket to fit the studs to mount the charger on.
    UHF Antennae, don't have a bull bar yet made a bracket that comes out through the grill it is bolted using existing mounts and unused holes.
    Dual battery cabling runs under the plastic cover in front of the radiator, it's easy to remove.
    UHF cable runs through the grommet in firewall on the passengers side, easy to get through and seal, just cut the end of one of the nipples and feed the cable through. Easy way to do this i have put in another thread somewhere.
    For future wires to run through the firewall make a wiring loom with a connector on one end 12 wires should plenty.
    My choice for the connector is a DEUTSCH 12 pin part No.s 57410 and 57420.
    Cover the loom with heat shrink and run it though one of the other spare nipples leaving the plug end in the engine bay.
    All other joins can then be made in the passengers side footwell.
    If you need to add something just put a new pin the plug and run the wire to the new accessory / relay.
    Will keep everything neat and you should only have go through the fire wall once and seal it.

    Aux Battery fuses, i found a fuse holder from an old Corolla that bolted straight onto the battery terminal.

    Comment


    • #3
      look at the attention to detail. Zip Ties, even spacing on them and all done up from the same direction, trimmed off flat with a sharp pair of side cutters, consider filing flat to take off the last of the raised trimmed section. The Deutsch fittings Fred63 talks of are the bomb of all fittings. they are stock items on the Cat gear and are simple to use, waterproof, neat and awesome. www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIR9-ZdG958 will show you the operation of install of them. The series is the DT, for standard wiring. you can them from Cooldrive, ash downs etc. You need the crimper NARVA DEUTSCH CRIMPING TOOL- 56507 or the original tooling. Look at the additional fittings for the plugs like the through hull fittings, the location plates ( screw them down and slide the connector onto them). Kaindog

      Comment


      • #4
        The biggest problem I find with keeping it all neat is the number of wires that go to the battery terminals. You can fit a separate accessory fuse box like the Blueseas or NARVA type or get the Projecta terminal block.



        As far as the rest goes use corrugated conduit, some black insulation tape to hold it together at intervals and lots of cable ties. Run the cables with other cables and under trims as best you can.



        The Prado is pretty good for mounting stuff and running cables. Grommets have extra nipples to feed cables through. Lots of 'spare' threaded holes and the scuff panels at the doors have plenty of room.

        The best thing about having it neat is if you do have a problem it is easier to sort out than if everything looks like a dogs breakfast (let the ' out because it may be more than one dog!).

        Best investment I have made, though I have done a lot of this lately, is to buy good quality crimpers. I bought a set of Narva crimpers with the interchangeable heads. Will crimp normal insulated terminals and single and double crimp non insulated terminals. Buy quality terminals and plugs and use the right tool.

        Same applies to diff and gearbox/transfer breathers. Keep them together and tidy.

        mjrandom
        Out of control poster!
        Last edited by mjrandom; 13-02-2015, 10:37 AM.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

        Comment


        • #5
          Here is what mine looks like at the moment, now that I have almost everything installed, (winch is sitting on the garage floor waiting to be put in but catch can, Water Watch, light bar, HID's, UHF, breathers are all done etc) I'll do a bit of a tidy up.

          The battery kit is from ABR and fits quite neatly, the isolator can't be see as it's hidden behind the starter battery and the main power cable is run across the top of the radiator. The two relays you see, one on each side are for the light bar and driving lights, separately switched of each headlight. I also have a bit of a dodgy power connector on the water watch that needs attention.

          I have a few power cables running of the aux battery and these are all routed through tubing around the top rear of the firewall. I also have three earths running of it, one to the engine, one to the body and one in the rear. This was all done as I was trying to eliminate static through the radio when the fridge is running. I have now found out the fridge actually interferes with the window antennas and the Fridge needs to be earthed.

          Diff breathers are tucked up high just behind the water watch.



          Comment


          • #6
            Click image for larger version

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            Originally posted by kaindog View Post
            look at the attention to detail. Zip Ties, even spacing on them and all done up from the same direction, trimmed off flat with a sharp pair of side cutters, consider filing flat to take off the last of the raised trimmed section. The Deutsch fittings Fred63 talks of are the bomb of all fittings. they are stock items on the Cat gear and are simple to use, waterproof, neat and awesome. www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIR9-ZdG958 will show you the operation of install of them. The series is the DT, for standard wiring. you can them from Cooldrive, ash downs etc. You need the crimper NARVA DEUTSCH CRIMPING TOOL- 56507 or the original tooling. Look at the additional fittings for the plugs like the through hull fittings, the location plates ( screw them down and slide the connector onto them). Kaindog

            Comment


            • #7
              there is some attention to detail there!
              Even heat shrink over the pre-insulated lugs.
              your work?

              Comment


              • #8
                did that photo attach on the last thread that I posted? thats a blue seas that I wired into the boat. just to give you some ideas. The positive and the neg off the battery straight onto it and the pos and negs for each circuit into the Deutsch 12 pin. the cover with the labels for the circuit on it is not shown. also just things like the heat shrink, use the dual wall and cut it all square and the same lengths. Get a cheap heat gun from bunnings for the heat shrink instead of the open flame. look at ericthecarguy how to solder wires together for that, if you need it. the relays can go into a relay bank and all together and look neat as. look at relay block on google images for them. The coil wrap is a good idea with the solid stuff, as in no split up the side, being the best option. there is a series of connections and sealed ends for them. Deutsch make a special end that is designed to heat shrink the sealed end onto. But the drama is that the split conduit and the not 100% sealed ends on the wiring cause water to enter and then stay in there. I work on Mining gear and the plugs like the Deutsch are best just fitted with the wires into the back and then left. Also the crimp and solder combo joints are not much chop as well as what they call scotch locks are the beginning of the end to wiring. The opening of a wire and the ingress of moisture due to the heating and cooling of the wire is all they create. plan and do it as neat as you can.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hello Kaindog, it sure did. That looks pretty tidy.

                  Thanks guys, there are some good ideas here, especially the relay blocks and making looms with DEUTSCH sockets.

                  I found a great looking solution in the following thread for mounting relays - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...0-GXL-Build-up

                  Given I'll only be using 2-3 relays, I could perhaps make a similar bracket that could also accommodate a small fuse block as well.
                  2014 150 GXL D4D Facelift, White with Colour Coded ARB Deluxe Bar, Side Rails and Steps, ARB Recovery Point, ARB Intensities (1 x Flood, 1 x Spot), ARB Air Compressor on AMTS bracket, ARB 60L Fridge, OME 2” Lift, BFG AT2 265/70/R17, Dual Battery with RedArc SBI12, HR Tow Bar, Sandgrabba floor mats, Pioneer Platform, Outback Drawers, MaxTrax on TraxRax, Icom IC-450N UHF, The Wet Seat seat covers, AMTS tyre carrier spacer and telescopic light pole.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just make sure you keep an eye on current draw if you use a fuse block. Usually a total limit and a limit per circuit.
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      here's snap of my rear power setup
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 042FWD View Post
                        here's snap of my rear power setup
                        is that a baintech panel?
                        2014 150 GXL D4D Facelift, White with Colour Coded ARB Deluxe Bar, Side Rails and Steps, ARB Recovery Point, ARB Intensities (1 x Flood, 1 x Spot), ARB Air Compressor on AMTS bracket, ARB 60L Fridge, OME 2” Lift, BFG AT2 265/70/R17, Dual Battery with RedArc SBI12, HR Tow Bar, Sandgrabba floor mats, Pioneer Platform, Outback Drawers, MaxTrax on TraxRax, Icom IC-450N UHF, The Wet Seat seat covers, AMTS tyre carrier spacer and telescopic light pole.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What size cable and conduit are people using to connect between the batteries? How hard is it to run it along the top of the radiator?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Wil

                            As i am using the Redarc charger i used 10 mm sq probably overkill.

                            It is very easy to remove the plastic cover in front of the radiator an run underneath there is plenty of places to tie the cables.
                            just push the button in the middle of the clips in and they come out easily.
                            to put them back in push the pin back out and put then in the holes.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              My wiring job for driving lights. One circuit breaker supplies both the driving lights and LED bar, the other is for the feed to the rear. The relays are one for the driving lights and the other for the LED bar. They are switched separately.

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Glacier White '14 GXL D4D Auto. ARB deluxe winch bar, side rails and protection steps, under body protection, Safari snorkel, Warn XD9000, tint, dual battery system with Redarc BCDC1225, Great White 18 LED spotties and double stack 18 LED bar, Uniden 7760NB UHF. Future mod wish list includes 2" lift, front & rear lockers, missile launcher and helopad.

                              Comment

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