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  1. #1
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    JimmyC's 2010 150 GXL build

    It's time to put some build logs up about my car but first a little story of how I got to this point.
    Before now I've always owned sedans and figured there was no point owning a 4wd; firstly because I lived in suburban SA and second because I felt it was better to use other peoples 4wd's rather than my own. Although I always owned sedans it didn't stop me from 'modifying' them to be like a 4wd. My first car, a 2000 Daewoo Nubira had 6 driving lights, rear drawer and a 1.6m UHF antenna fitted (along with the 12inch subwoofer that I thought all the girls would fall in love with). Since moving up to the NT just over a year ago for my first big time job I saw more and more need for a 4wd. For those of you that have driven around Katherine at dusk you'll know why a sedan isn't the best idea.
    It was after doing 1600km in one day by myself from Yulara to Katherine for work that I decided I needed to buy a 4wd so whilst in Darwin for the next 3 weeks I searched for a car (I live in Alice Springs so it was a strange idea to buy a car whilst away). I looked at all these dealers in Darwin but this one car in Alice springs kept popping up and I kept dismissing it. Finally it hit me, I had to get it, there was no better deal out there than the one in Alice. After some favours from mates to look at the car and a trip to the bank I was now the proud owner of my first ever 4wd.... from 1600km away. I tell you what, best thing ever to come home to sitting in the driveway.
    I bought the car with 95k on the clock and with a small list of mods that included ARB deluxe winch bar and roof rack, Lightforce XGT spot lights and some Cooper AT3's with 70% tread left.

    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psvcdgwuay.jpg

  2. #2
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    My first modification was dual batteries for the additional emergency starting capacity. This came to light after being stuck out 350km from mobile reception with a dead battery.
    Setup is SBi12 with override and a 55AH Optima Blue top battery
    Shortly after that I installed a LED light bar on the front and 2x small led light bars on the roof racks for camping. All the LED's supplied by a company named Beamax. All switched from the right knee switch panel with Newpro tech switches.
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psjbm3rbwq.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...pstd4i2xyn.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1jddsqim.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psblbegyn7.jpg
    Shortly after that I installed a Uniden 8060NB with a cheapy uniden antenna. Did ok, but I upgraded later on.
    Last edited by JimmyC; 29-04-2015 at 01:41 PM.

  3. #3
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    The next modification was a Safari Snorkel that i self installed with a mate. A lot easier than i thought but I am feeling i need to pull it off and silicone the joins for extra insurance.
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psavezdx2r.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psdpxcl9yy.jpg
    Here is a photo after a bit of fun in red mud, still getting if off by the way, it gets EVERYWHERE
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...pskv7tlg4r.jpg

  4. #4
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    After all this I went on a trip where I unfortunently hit a big roo, you can see my other thread about that. After insurance paid out the cost ($5900 damage) I ended up with a shiny new colour coded winch bar.
    I also added:
    GME AE4703 antenna, GME AT6DB mobile phone antenna with a Strike universal cradle with permanent power charger wired to 2nd battery.
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...psni3ydumy.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...pshvyaxo2a.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4uiannit.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1akjlabm.jpg
    I then added Drifta drawers with the flush mount fridge slide. Fridge divider not yet installed.
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3isgpqh6.jpg
    http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/...pswvb4rcbv.jpg

  5. #5
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    In the next week or so I will be pulling out the drawers and Dynamatting the whole rear area for soundproofing purposes and also re running all my wires for my neatness OCD.
    I'll be running 8mm twin core cable to a fuse block in the back with 6mm to the fridge and some more 8mm to an anderson/cigarette/usb outlet.
    For the far future i plan on a Kaymar rear bar, long range fuel tank, underbody protection and an all round BP-51 setup.
    My goal is to do the Canning in 2017. I'll keep you all posted!

  6. #6
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    Canning Vale, WA
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    looks good. you may want to look at larger wire than 8mm. most people tend to go with 6B&S but that's not a requirement. I think that is about 13mm2 from memory. also not sure whether 8mm you refer to is diameter of wire, or of wire with insulation. so you may be OK already but just double check.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by maulbeagle View Post
    looks good. you may want to look at larger wire than 8mm. most people tend to go with 6B&S but that's not a requirement. I think that is about 13mm2 from memory. also not sure whether 8mm you refer to is diameter of wire, or of wire with insulation. so you may be OK already but just double check.
    Yeah I got 8 gauge which is the 8mm2 stuff. Spoke to a guy at home of 12v who rekons this is more than enough. Time will tell I suppose. All i plan to run is a fridge and the occasional compressor out the Anderson.

  8. #8
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    yeah 8 gauge will be enough.

  9. #9
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    Next on the list was to sound deaden the car as much as possible. I bought 36 square feet off eBay for $170 and set to do as much as possible. After removing the drawers and all of the plastic panelling in the rear of the cargo area (not too hard just follow the screws and don't force anything) I found that the large rubber grommets on both sides had come out and behind everything was caked in dust so about 3 hours just to clean the damn stuff. The dynamat went down easy enough. While all the panelling was out I took the opportunity to run a power box I bought from home of 12v which has an Anderson, 2xusb, accessory socket and a volt meter. All installed neatly in the storage box. When putting the drawers back in I also stuck some 'acoustic pinboard' on the underside of the false floor.
    Dynamatting the doors was easier than expected. Prado door skins are some of the easiest to get off (by the way if anyone has any tips for the rear door I'd love to hear). A quick clean and measure and the dynamat was down. Makes the doors close nice and solid as for the noise I'll post about that in my other thread.
    I've since run the 8 gauge cable, replacing the 10 gauge stuff. Straight into a Baintech 12 way fuse box attached to the back end of the drawers.
    Today I just purchased my long range fuel tank to be installed. Ill post a detailed thread of the install if anyone is interested.

    Power outlet: http://s2.postimg.org/ok7xfxbnt/20150510_161143.jpg
    Dynamatting doors: http://s29.postimg.org/b2544gtw7/20150510_165222.jpg

  10. #10
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    How are you finding the Drifta drawers Jimmy?

    They look really neat.

    Are you able to open them if the car is parked on a slant? And if so, do they stay open?
    NOW FOR SALE!!! - 2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, Cooper ST MAXX, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, AJ Sliders

  11. #11
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    Yeah they are pretty good. Slide nicely but with just enough resistance not to slide back in on a slope. Very well built drawers

  12. #12
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    Next modification was the long range fuel tank. There is plenty of talk on my other thread about the problems self-installing it but if I had to summarise it here are my tips for success:
    1. Clean the area you are working as you will spend a lot of time lying down in it.
    2. When disconnecting the 5 hoses mark which of the 6mm ones are which. They are easy to mix up and you will end up breaking down if not connected right.
    3. Replace the gasket around the fuel sender unit, it WILL leak if you don't.
    4. When trimming the soft lines to fit the new tank 2-3cm is more than plenty (you'll know what I mean if you do it).
    5. Take the time to grind/cut off the brackets as neatly as possible. Time spent here will be worth it.
    6. Bring friends to the party. Even 1 extra person will make lifting the tank into position 100x easier.

    All in all it is a worthwhile mod to the car for sure. How I found it works is the distance to empty doesn't function effectively but the fuel gauge is accurate. Will display full until approx. 550km then start dropping at a slightly slower rate.

    http://s23.postimg.org/3y7vs4j8b/119...03103197_o.jpg

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