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Is 150 OEM wiring OK for running a fridge?

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  • Is 150 OEM wiring OK for running a fridge?

    Looking at buying a Waeco CFX 50 litre fridge. Wondering if the standard outlets in the boot of a new 150, 12 v and or 220 v will power the fridge without any drama.

    cheers,

    Puddock

  • #2
    There is no 12V in the rear. The 220v socket might run it, but wouldn't recommend it. Small wiring.

    You can easily run heavy cabling to the rear, new 12V sockets and circuit breakers for well under $100.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2013 150 Prado Altitude D4D in Graphite - [B][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?37048-Brougham-s-150-Altitude-build"]My Rig Build thread[/URL][/B]

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    • #3
      Tried a Waeco on the factory 12 Volts. Its a no go. If your alternator is charging flat out, and you don't have anything else on the circuit you are just OK, but once the alternator gets hot and reduces voltage (something they are designed to do in the Prado), or your start to charge a few iPhone and iPads, your fridge will start to throw the yellow warning light and stop.

      The Waeco seems more sensitive to voltage than the others, but its more power efficient (I think)

      It will take you an hour or 2 to run some heavy wire to the back and add a plug.

      Click image for larger version

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      Justinvv
      Member
      Last edited by Justinvv; 06-12-2015, 10:09 PM. Reason: Add image

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      • #4
        I've run CXF50 off the factory 220v and off the factory socket in the rear of the centre console without any problems. I do have a 12v installed in the rear though as well which I had done before delivery. It's straight to the battery so doesn't switch off with the ignition.

        Regarding the fridge going into low voltage cutoff, just adjust the cutoff voltage to either medium or low. High will have it tripping out all over the shop.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Drift View Post
          I've run CXF50 off the factory 220v and off the factory socket in the rear of the centre console without any problems. I do have a 12v installed in the rear though as well which I had done before delivery. It's straight to the battery so doesn't switch off with the ignition.

          Regarding the fridge going into low voltage cutoff, just adjust the cutoff voltage to either medium or low. High will have it tripping out all over the shop.
          The voltage drop will go well below the lowest setting and throw a yellow LED. When you have a look at the wiring they use it minuscule. You will see why you shouldn't use it. Its barely good enough to charge a phone.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Justinvv View Post
            The voltage drop will go well below the lowest setting and throw a yellow LED. When you have a look at the wiring they use it minuscule. You will see why you shouldn't use it. Its barely good enough to charge a phone.
            if you've done this yourself, get your fridge checked. Mine works fine in all the situations noted above.

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            • #7
              I have. It worked "most" of the time. Maybe some fridges are better than others (probably the soft start). But I couldn't rely on it. when I pulled the back apart and saw the wiring, its obvious. So I wired some 10mm down the back.

              I have helped out a number of people wire up the back after they had the same issues. The AC outlet is slightly better, but less efficient.

              Engels handle the voltage drop better that Waeco.

              I made a voltage booster diode and this helped at the time as the alternator will run at 14+ volts when the car is running.

              Comment


              • #8
                I have an evakool 60L and it won't work through the factory 12v cigarette sockets. Ran all new wiring for permanent 12v.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have a CFX40 and plugged it into the original power outlet in the back, the fridge would cut in and out whilst the engine was running. I then took the salesman's advice and purchased the wiring harness from Waeco (approx $129) and installed it myself direct from the battery, through the fire wall and into the rear cargo area of the car.
                  The Waeco harness gives you two settings, one for constant power and one for power just when the car is running. I have found that with the voltage cut off setting on the fridge at 'medium' I will get two days power with the car ignition switched off and then the fridge cuts out to save having a flat battery.
                  If the car is a daily driver you will find that the fridge stays cold all the time. The wiring kit was the best thing I did!!
                  I am not very handy but managed to work it out and I am just running the original single battery.

                  Best advice on buying fridge and accessories.. wait for Rays Outdoors to have a great special on them and then pop into Anaconda and get them to beat it by 10% with there pricing policy. Happy days!
                  2015 Kakadu D4D Silver, Toyota Tow Bar, Toyota Rubber Floor Mats and Rear Cargo Mat, Rhino Rack Aero Bars, TJM Air Compressor, MAXTRAX, GME TX3100PNP, Waeco CFX40, ARB Bash Plates, Milford Cargo Barrier, BFG KO2's 265 60 18, Opposite Lock Bull Bar

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bennyhodge View Post
                    If the car is a daily driver you will find that the fridge stays cold all the time. The wiring kit was the best thing I did!!
                    I am not very handy but managed to work it out and I am just running the original single battery.
                    Be careful if your battery isn't a deep cycle battery because if you regularly run down the battery, it will reduce the lifespan of the battery.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The advice we'd received was unanimous in saying "no", the standard wiring is not good enough.
                      Furthermore, we went to the expense of putting in the dual battery with heavy wiring to Anderson plug (for van) and 12v plug in side wall of boot.

                      This is a set-and-forget setup as we put the fridge in, turn it on and leave it on for months at a time (when travelling).
                      The redarc protects the starter battery and no problems in the four years we've had it - worth every penny!
                      [COLOR="darkgreen"][B][I][/I][/B][/COLOR]150 GXL D4D Auto - Graphite
                      Sandgrabbas front, middle, boot. Toyota towbar. Uniden 7760NB UHF radio, AT870 Aerial
                      Dual Battery System & Anderson plug by Wynnum Tow Bars.
                      Tough Dogs & King Springs all round, Air bags to rear, Safari snorkel.
                      ECB hammertone Big Tube winch bar (no winch). Golf Savannah 499 pop top 'van 1990 Kg ATM.

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                      • #12
                        I have a cheap Chinese 60 lt fridge/freezer that runs on 12 V only.

                        I use a 240V to 12V switch mode supply to run the fridge freezer from the 240V socket when we are mobile.

                        I have a relay that switches to 12V auxiliary battery when we are stationary.

                        We were warned not to overload the 12V cigarette lighter sockets when pulling 240V for the fridge as the two cig lighter sockets and the 240V inverter run off the same fuse.

                        We only use the cig lighter socket for the GPS navigator so never had a problem.

                        YMMV

                        S.
                        155 SX with dual battery and Polyairs in the rear springs..

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for the advice

                          Thanks to all who replied. The NOs' have it.

                          150GXL, your solution seems a good option. I will be towing a van so the 12v in the boot and Anderson plug would be the go.


                          Is your second battery in the engine bay? and what type of battery did you go for?

                          thanks,

                          Puddock.

                          Originally posted by 150gxl View Post
                          The advice we'd received was unanimous in saying "no", the standard wiring is not good enough.
                          Furthermore, we went to the expense of putting in the dual battery with heavy wiring to Anderson plug (for van) and 12v plug in side wall of boot.

                          This is a set-and-forget setup as we put the fridge in, turn it on and leave it on for months at a time (when travelling).
                          The redarc protects the starter battery and no problems in the four years we've had it - worth every penny!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sweetpea View Post
                            I have a cheap Chinese 60 lt fridge/freezer that runs on 12 V only.

                            I use a 240V to 12V switch mode supply to run the fridge freezer from the 240V socket when we are mobile.

                            I have a relay that switches to 12V auxiliary battery when we are stationary.

                            We were warned not to overload the 12V cigarette lighter sockets when pulling 240V for the fridge as the two cig lighter sockets and the 240V inverter run off the same fuse.

                            We only use the cig lighter socket for the GPS navigator so never had a problem.

                            YMMV

                            S.
                            Sweetpea,

                            That sounds very inefficient. You are converting 12V to 240V to convert it back to 12V, when if you left it at 12V it would ruin the fridge.

                            The 240V socket in the back of the Prado has a 12V inverter behind it to convert the 12V from the alternator to 240V and a max of 100watts.

                            You would be better just plugging it into the 12V socket.

                            Regards

                            Aidan
                            2015 GX Prado 3L Auto, in the process of being fitted out.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks amts
                              Appreciate the info.
                              Does anyone have any examples of how their standard battery was effected by constantly running their fridge directly off the car battery? ie was the battery done after 6 months? 12 months?
                              Ideally I would like to continue with this set up as we are only weekend campers/short getaways and aren't too keen on adding a second battery just yet.
                              Thanks
                              Ben

                              Originally posted by amts View Post
                              Be careful if your battery isn't a deep cycle battery because if you regularly run down the battery, it will reduce the lifespan of the battery.
                              2015 Kakadu D4D Silver, Toyota Tow Bar, Toyota Rubber Floor Mats and Rear Cargo Mat, Rhino Rack Aero Bars, TJM Air Compressor, MAXTRAX, GME TX3100PNP, Waeco CFX40, ARB Bash Plates, Milford Cargo Barrier, BFG KO2's 265 60 18, Opposite Lock Bull Bar

                              Comment

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