Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dual battery setup for 2.8 1GD

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by 120D4D View Post
    Are you saying that you left the fridge on permanantly?
    I forgot to turn the fridge off once.

    Originally posted by 120D4D View Post
    Why did you take the '24hrs on a 4A charger' path, over just driving the Prado for an hour? The alternator could have brought the charge up much faster...
    I may not have worded very post clearly

    Originally posted by steve.armitage View Post
    I think it's time I admit defeat with my current system for charging the batteries after they have been drained. After leaving the fridge on and the main battery draining to 12v and the auxiliary to 11.2v, neither have recovered above 12.2v. i don't do a lot of driving, though i have driven numerous times for a few hours at a time. No accessories we connected so any drain while sitting in the drive should be minimal.
    Even after using the vehicle since discharging the battery, including a number of 3 hour journeys, it does not recover to more than 12.2v.

    Do you think there could be another issue?

    Comment


    • There could be Steve, perhaps something as simple as a dud battery.

      Suggest a PM to drivesafe as you have the winch isolator which differs from my SC80.
      Cheers
      Micheal.

      2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
      2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

      Comment


      • Hi steve and unfortunately a single long drove every so often will not reverse the effects of continuos short drives.

        Even the periodical 24 hour charge with a battery charger can not undo the effects of short driving.

        Personally, IMO, if you park outside regularly and don’t mind fitting a solar panel, then this would, by far, give you the best counter measure for short driving practices.

        In the interim, try putting your charger on every night and removing it every morning,whether you drive every day or not.

        It sounds like your batteries are suffering from a severe sulfration, and are down dramatically on capacity, and while they may not be able to be recovered to 100%, your should be able to slowly reverse the sulfration effects by continually charging every night.

        What happens is the charger will first go into Bulk charger every time you turn the charger on, regardless of the state of charge of the batteries.

        If the batteries are low, the charger will remain in Bulk charge. If the batteries are fully charged, the charger will, after the initial Bulk charge, go into Float mode.

        But the initial Bulk charge will help to stir up the electrolyte, and over a period of time, the Float mode will then progressively SLOWLY dissolve some of the sulfration.

        The advantage of a solar setup is that it will automatically turn off at sundown and turn on at sunup so it does the charge cycle properly and automatically.

        How much the lost battery capacity that can be retrieved will vary with the amount of sulfration level in each battery.

        BTW, you can use a 10w solar panel and you will not need a solar regulator, and a 10w solar panel will easily charge and maintain two batteries at the same time.

        Comment


        • Thanks Tim, i'll give your suggestion of daily charging a go until i sort out my solar setup.
          I don't do a lot of driving at the moment as i can walk to the shops and walk to do the school drop off.
          Disappointed if i have 'severe sulfation' after a few months, including a trip to Melbourne and back.

          I've found thin 120w/20v panels which are 1200x540x3mm that will fit within the width of the Pioneer Platform.
          Hoping one panel will be enough while the vehicle is mobile, with the ability to plug in a second ground based panel in parallel if i want to keep the fridge and other things powered longer without moving.

          Fingers crossed a rubber mat will protect while i'm carrying other things on the roof.

          Comment


          • Looks like it might be time for me to do the same with my cranking battery. After almost a year of ownership, and a lot of short drives lately, I too am starting to see the low resting voltages reported by others. The cranking battery has never seen any significant discharge cycles and only ever been charged by the alternator. It now rests at about 12.2V.

            By comparison, the camping battery (installed since the car was new) has been flattened once (forgot to unplug the fridge), and ~ 50% discharged countless times and only ever charged by a charger. It always rests at 12.6V.

            Time to put that cranking battery on an AC charger and see if I can bring it back to life.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • Well it looks like my Yellow Top is on its last legs.

              Haven't been happy with the overnight readings for a few weeks now, only seeing around 12.4V now with both batts in shared mode. Thinking the cranker was the issue I was able to just flick the switch on the Traxide SC80 over to storage mode to isolate them after shutdown. The Optima is seeing around 12.6V overnight and this has been falling quickly from 12.75V+ only a few weeks ago.

              I thought the Optima doesn't vent gas/acid however the negative terminal post is completing covered in corrosion in less than 2 weeks since I last used it to jump start the wife's car. Yesterday I thought I had condensation on the post but now I'm thinking it must have been acid.

              Have isolated it from charging and currently running a smaller cooler bag off it now to see how long it will power the 3amp draw...
              Cheers
              Micheal.

              2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
              2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

              Comment


              • how old is your batt? my YellowTop sits at 13.1V I thought was to high but sparkie reckons its normal. still not sure I went googling and found:

                https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...attery-voltage

                Comment


                • Originally posted by 120D4D View Post
                  I thought the Optima doesn't vent gas/acid however the negative terminal post is completing covered in corrosion in less than 2 weeks since I last used it to jump start the wife's car. Yesterday I thought I had condensation on the post but now I'm thinking it must have been acid.
                  Hi Michael, and that actually sounds like a faulty battery.

                  It is very unusual for an Optima ( or most new batteries ) to have a cracked/damaged battery terminal.

                  If it is still in the warranty period, see if you can get it replaced.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by JimboW View Post
                    how old is your batt? my YellowTop sits at 13.1V I thought was to high but sparkie reckons its normal. still not sure I went googling and found:

                    https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...attery-voltage

                    Hi Jimbo and welcome to the forum.

                    There is good info at that link, but you need to have a working knowledge of batteries to get the full benefit from it.

                    The statement that the Yellowtop has a fully charged voltage of 13.1v, is the OPEN CIRCUIT voltage reading.

                    Place a small load ( no greater than about 5 amps ) on any type of lead acid battery ( AGM, Wet Cell, Gel, Lead Crystal ) and they will all have a voltage reading of around 12.7v when fully charged.

                    Best way to check batteries is with a small load applied and let it run for a few minutes then take your voltage reading, and this chart will give you a pretty good idea of the state of charge of any lead acid battery.

                    Comment


                    • Thanks Drivesafe, was worried charger might be overcharging it cause of the 13.1V but sounds like its no prob.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
                        Hi Jimbo and welcome to the forum.

                        There is good info at that link, but you need to have a working knowledge of batteries to get the full benefit from it.

                        The statement that the Yellowtop has a fully charged voltage of 13.1v, is the OPEN CIRCUIT voltage reading.

                        Place a small load ( no greater than about 5 amps ) on any type of lead acid battery ( AGM, Wet Cell, Gel, Lead Crystal ) and they will all have a voltage reading of around 12.7v when fully charged.

                        Best way to check batteries is with a small load applied and let it run for a few minutes then take your voltage reading, and this chart will give you a pretty good idea of the state of charge of any lead acid battery.

                        This is what worries me about the new Prado charging system -we do long drives regularly, but I still see resting voltages of around 12.2V (ie only 60% full) on the cranking battery. Just feels like the charging system voltage is too low and not keeping the battery full.

                        Comment


                        • Dodgy terminal post aside - I ran the 3amp load for around 5 1/2 hours and ran the battery down to 12.15v. (I would've like to run down to 12.0v but that would have been a pain to turn it off.)

                          Overnight the resting voltage came back up to 12.3v which surprised me.

                          Not sure what to make of that - I took around around 15amps and the battery appears to be sitting at around the 65% mark...
                          Cheers
                          Micheal.

                          2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                          2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by LeadWings View Post
                            This is what worries me about the new Prado charging system -we do long drives regularly, but I still see resting voltages of around 12.2V (ie only 60% full) on the cranking battery. Just feels like the charging system voltage is too low and not keeping the battery full.
                            I feel your pain now that I'm finally seeing the same. I followed Drivesafe's advice above and it put it on an AC charger for two consecutive nights and it seems to have come good. Should we have to do that? Obviously the answer is NO, but then I didn't really have to do it. At 12.2V the battery has plenty enough to unlock the doors and start the motor which is all I ever ask of it. I take consolation in the fact that we're no worse off than the thousands of 2.8L engines in Prados, HiLux's and Fortuners that never go near a campground and don't have dual batteries, and you don't see lots of them stranded by the roadside holloring for a Marshall. I'll probably continue to put mine on an AC charger once or twice a year in the hope of improving its longevity, but the effect may well be marginal.

                            The camping battery, on the other hand, I do care about being in top condition and fully charged, as it does see much more significant discharge cycles. Even after a complete discharge (accidental) all it takes is a decent day's drive and it is restored to its former glory. It always rests at 12.6/12.7V no matter what my driving habits.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by 120D4D View Post
                              Dodgy terminal post aside - I ran the 3amp load for around 5 1/2 hours and ran the battery down to 12.15v. (I would've like to run down to 12.0v but that would have been a pain to turn it off.)

                              Overnight the resting voltage came back up to 12.3v which surprised me.

                              Not sure what to make of that - I took around around 15amps and the battery appears to be sitting at around the 65% mark...
                              Hi Michael, from those figures, it doesn’t sound like there is anything wrong with your battery.

                              The Optima D34 is rated 55Ah for a C20 discharge rate.

                              The C20 current discharge for the 55Ahs is around 2.6A and as your test discharge load was only just above this, your figures point to about the correct voltage levels for a battery that was in a fully charged state at the beginning of the test and a battery at it’s full available usable capacity.

                              The Peukerts effect ( Peukerts Exponent ) would probably account for the 12.15v disconnect voltage and the settling up voltage indicates, as above, the correct voltage levels for the amount of Ah discharged from a battery that was in a fully charged state at the beginning of the test.

                              The D34, at 55Ah, is a comparatively small battery and if you applied the same load to say a 100Ah battery, you probably would not get as large a settling up voltage difference.

                              Comment


                              • Thanks Tim, I have the D27F which is 66Ah but I see your point that I seem to still have capacity in the battery.

                                I've connected it back up to the SC80 as I'm using the fridge tomorrow. Measured a 0.15v drop across the D27 compared to the start battery, so it appears to be pulling some Amps too.

                                I'll clean up the terminal and keep my fingers crossed!
                                Cheers
                                Micheal.

                                2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                                2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                                Comment

                                canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                                mencisport.com
                                antalya escort
                                tsyd.org deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                gaziantep escort
                                gaziantep escort
                                asyabahis maltcasino olabahis olabahis
                                erotik film izle Rus escort gaziantep rus escort
                                atasehir escort tuzla escort
                                sikis sex hatti
                                en iyi casino siteleri
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                casibom
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                deneme bonusu veren siteler
                                betticket istanbulbahis
                                Working...
                                X