G'day all,
After having to change my alternator for the second time in 3 weeks (due to manufacturer defect) I took the opportunity to do a step by step guide to hold to tackle this job.
I'd rate it an easy-medium job and all that is needed is a decent socket set and a multimeter. I feel that I am a semi knowledgeable home mechanic but if you see a flaw in my method feel free to let me know, always up to learn something.
Tools used: jack, jack stand, 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 12mm socket, 3/8 10mm socket, 3/8 extension, 14mm ratchet spanner, 1/2 breaker bar, 1/2 21mm deep socket, 1/4 ratchet, 1/4 10mm socket, wd40, 1/2 14mm socket, 1/2 12mm socket, 1/2 ratchet, multimeter, wire brush.
Time: 1-2 hours
Step 1.
Jack up car and remove front drivers side wheel.
Tools used: jack, jack stand, breaker bar, 21mm deep socket.
http://s7.postimg.org/vzbn1er17/1_Wheel_Removal.jpg
Always remember jack stands!!
http://s12.postimg.org/707fxrom5/2_Jack_Stands.jpg
The alternator is located behind some removable plastic panels in the wheel well
http://s15.postimg.org/enrn1bi7v/3_L...Alternator.jpg
The one in there is 3000km old and already has failed...
Step 2.
Disconnect Battery(s)
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket.
Always a must when working on anything electrical.
http://s2.postimg.org/qfsr58ge1/4_Ba...Disconnect.jpg
Step 3.
Remove bash plate.
Tools used: 3/8 ratchet, 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8 extension bar.
There are 4x 12mm bolts on the Toyota one and 2x 10mm ones that connect the ARB plating to the OEM one.
Best way to do it is the front ones first followed by the 2 rear ones. The OEM plate needs to pivot down and slide forward slightly to be removed. There are 2 clip-lug kind of things on the front end of it that will hold it up til removal.
This will allow access to the bottom bolt of the alternator and the tensioner pulley.
http://s21.postimg.org/trk094xkn/5_Bash_Plate_Bolts.jpg
Step 4.
Remove serpentine belt
Tools used: 1/2 Breaker bar, 14mm socket.
Locate the tensioner pulley and get the socket onto it (fiddly) then push the bar from the passenger to the drivers side and this will release the tension on the belt. Remove belt from the alternator. Takes a bit of muscle!
http://s16.postimg.org/btgmos6x1/6_Tensioner_Pulley.jpg
Step 5.
Remove alternator cable and wiring loom.
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket, wd40
Remove plastic cover over cable lug. This should come off easily, if not a small flat head screwdriver will do it. Unbolt 10mm nut and remove cable.
Remove wiring loom located on back of unit. The push-down part of the clip is located on the top. I found just a tiny dab of wd40 made this a whole lot easier. This is the part where you will lose the knuckle skin.
Put the nut back on the lug so you don't lose it.
http://s8.postimg.org/rfbn92mxx/7_Cable_Cover.jpg
http://s10.postimg.org/6z4prgwih/8_Cable_Lug.jpg
http://s16.postimg.org/82ku7oxdx/10_4_Pin_Plug.jpg
Step 6.
Unbolt top and bottom alternator bolts.
Tools used: 1/2 ratchet, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm ratchet spanner (optional)
Unbolt top bolt of alternator using the 14mm socket/spanner. I found the spanner easier. Then way the alternator sits tightly in it's mount will not let it fall. Unbolt bottom bolt using 12mm socket. This is easiest from under the car looking up.
http://s7.postimg.org/cu8ub0taz/11_Top_Bolt.jpg
http://s21.postimg.org/v0vbaupdj/12_Bottom_Bolt.jpg (I got the bolt half way out before I took the photo here)
http://s15.postimg.org/t9wwe603f/13_Bolts_out.jpg
Step 7.
Remove alternator
Tools used: wd40
Once again just a dab of wd40 where the top of the alternator meets the mount will help here.
Best way to do it is to grip the unit and rock it back and forth how it swings naturally on the top mount. With a bit of pulling pressure and the rocking and it will make it's way out. The unit will fit out the hole in the wheel well with a bit of twisting and tetris.
Step 8.
Compare old/new alternator
Tools used: nil
Important step before installing. Make sure you have the right unit before installing it. Put them side by side and look at them.
You may need to push in a washer on the top mount of the new unit. When you compare them you will see it. A strong G clamp will do this well.
http://s7.postimg.org/xh6qntrh7/14_Comparison.jpg
Step 9.
Clean mounts.
Tools used: Small wire brush.
Clean off the cable, bolts and mounts for the best electrical connection.
http://s27.postimg.org/6f0ho4ogj/15_Empty_Hole.jpg
Step 10.
Install new unit.
Tools used: wd40
Before shoving the new unit through the hole put a little wd40 on the top mounts. Once again it will make it way easier to get in.
Tetris the unit through the hole and line it up. The top mount will be tight. If you use the same rocking action used to remove it but this time with forward pressure the unit will go in. This will take some practice.
Step 11.
Put bolts in.
Tools used :1/2 socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm ratchet spanner (optional)
Install the top bolt first. This is slightly difficult as the tolerances are tight an since the unit is a snug fit moving it small amounts is difficult. Just persist, a little at a time and you will get it lined up well. Finger tight the top bolt.
Line up the bottom bolt. If you find that the holes will not allign (like in my case), follow the bottom mount futher down to a hinging 12mm bolt. Undo it slightly and the mount will pivot to help you line it up. Finger tight the bottom bolt
Check unit is square before tightening all bolts.
Step 12.
Re install cable lug and wiring loom
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket
Place cable onto nut and tighten, re plug in loom.
Step 13.
Re install serpentine belt
Tools used: 1/2 breaker bar, 14mm socket.
This one may take an assistant depending on how much your belt wants to fight you. Check all top engine bay pulleys that belt is on correctly. With the breaker on the tensioner pulley release tension and put belt on alternator.
Visually check belt and make sure it is on correctly on all pulleys
Step 14.
Reconnect battery(s) and test
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket, Multi-meter
Reconnect battery(s), re check belt and start car.
Check belt is spinning freely, and alternator is spinning freely. Using multi meter check voltage at idle. Should be above 12.8 (i got 13.7 with lights and air con on). If not above 12.8 then something isn't connected!
Turn off car.
Step 15.
Re-install bash plates, wheel arch cover and wheel.
Tools used 3/8 ratchet, 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8 extension, 1/2 breaker bar, 21mm deep socket, jack stands, jack.
Re-install bash plates. Best way is to angle the back down and front up and line up the clip-lug things at the front the the holes. once they are in lift the back and put the 12mm bolts in. Then front bolts and tighten all round.
Re install wheel arch guard and wheel. Lower car to ground.
Re-start car and double check everything again.
Step 16.
Have a beer
After having to change my alternator for the second time in 3 weeks (due to manufacturer defect) I took the opportunity to do a step by step guide to hold to tackle this job.
I'd rate it an easy-medium job and all that is needed is a decent socket set and a multimeter. I feel that I am a semi knowledgeable home mechanic but if you see a flaw in my method feel free to let me know, always up to learn something.
Tools used: jack, jack stand, 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 12mm socket, 3/8 10mm socket, 3/8 extension, 14mm ratchet spanner, 1/2 breaker bar, 1/2 21mm deep socket, 1/4 ratchet, 1/4 10mm socket, wd40, 1/2 14mm socket, 1/2 12mm socket, 1/2 ratchet, multimeter, wire brush.
Time: 1-2 hours
Step 1.
Jack up car and remove front drivers side wheel.
Tools used: jack, jack stand, breaker bar, 21mm deep socket.
http://s7.postimg.org/vzbn1er17/1_Wheel_Removal.jpg
Always remember jack stands!!
http://s12.postimg.org/707fxrom5/2_Jack_Stands.jpg
The alternator is located behind some removable plastic panels in the wheel well
http://s15.postimg.org/enrn1bi7v/3_L...Alternator.jpg
The one in there is 3000km old and already has failed...
Step 2.
Disconnect Battery(s)
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket.
Always a must when working on anything electrical.
http://s2.postimg.org/qfsr58ge1/4_Ba...Disconnect.jpg
Step 3.
Remove bash plate.
Tools used: 3/8 ratchet, 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8 extension bar.
There are 4x 12mm bolts on the Toyota one and 2x 10mm ones that connect the ARB plating to the OEM one.
Best way to do it is the front ones first followed by the 2 rear ones. The OEM plate needs to pivot down and slide forward slightly to be removed. There are 2 clip-lug kind of things on the front end of it that will hold it up til removal.
This will allow access to the bottom bolt of the alternator and the tensioner pulley.
http://s21.postimg.org/trk094xkn/5_Bash_Plate_Bolts.jpg
Step 4.
Remove serpentine belt
Tools used: 1/2 Breaker bar, 14mm socket.
Locate the tensioner pulley and get the socket onto it (fiddly) then push the bar from the passenger to the drivers side and this will release the tension on the belt. Remove belt from the alternator. Takes a bit of muscle!
http://s16.postimg.org/btgmos6x1/6_Tensioner_Pulley.jpg
Step 5.
Remove alternator cable and wiring loom.
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket, wd40
Remove plastic cover over cable lug. This should come off easily, if not a small flat head screwdriver will do it. Unbolt 10mm nut and remove cable.
Remove wiring loom located on back of unit. The push-down part of the clip is located on the top. I found just a tiny dab of wd40 made this a whole lot easier. This is the part where you will lose the knuckle skin.
Put the nut back on the lug so you don't lose it.
http://s8.postimg.org/rfbn92mxx/7_Cable_Cover.jpg
http://s10.postimg.org/6z4prgwih/8_Cable_Lug.jpg
http://s16.postimg.org/82ku7oxdx/10_4_Pin_Plug.jpg
Step 6.
Unbolt top and bottom alternator bolts.
Tools used: 1/2 ratchet, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm ratchet spanner (optional)
Unbolt top bolt of alternator using the 14mm socket/spanner. I found the spanner easier. Then way the alternator sits tightly in it's mount will not let it fall. Unbolt bottom bolt using 12mm socket. This is easiest from under the car looking up.
http://s7.postimg.org/cu8ub0taz/11_Top_Bolt.jpg
http://s21.postimg.org/v0vbaupdj/12_Bottom_Bolt.jpg (I got the bolt half way out before I took the photo here)
http://s15.postimg.org/t9wwe603f/13_Bolts_out.jpg
Step 7.
Remove alternator
Tools used: wd40
Once again just a dab of wd40 where the top of the alternator meets the mount will help here.
Best way to do it is to grip the unit and rock it back and forth how it swings naturally on the top mount. With a bit of pulling pressure and the rocking and it will make it's way out. The unit will fit out the hole in the wheel well with a bit of twisting and tetris.
Step 8.
Compare old/new alternator
Tools used: nil
Important step before installing. Make sure you have the right unit before installing it. Put them side by side and look at them.
You may need to push in a washer on the top mount of the new unit. When you compare them you will see it. A strong G clamp will do this well.
http://s7.postimg.org/xh6qntrh7/14_Comparison.jpg
Step 9.
Clean mounts.
Tools used: Small wire brush.
Clean off the cable, bolts and mounts for the best electrical connection.
http://s27.postimg.org/6f0ho4ogj/15_Empty_Hole.jpg
Step 10.
Install new unit.
Tools used: wd40
Before shoving the new unit through the hole put a little wd40 on the top mounts. Once again it will make it way easier to get in.
Tetris the unit through the hole and line it up. The top mount will be tight. If you use the same rocking action used to remove it but this time with forward pressure the unit will go in. This will take some practice.
Step 11.
Put bolts in.
Tools used :1/2 socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm ratchet spanner (optional)
Install the top bolt first. This is slightly difficult as the tolerances are tight an since the unit is a snug fit moving it small amounts is difficult. Just persist, a little at a time and you will get it lined up well. Finger tight the top bolt.
Line up the bottom bolt. If you find that the holes will not allign (like in my case), follow the bottom mount futher down to a hinging 12mm bolt. Undo it slightly and the mount will pivot to help you line it up. Finger tight the bottom bolt
Check unit is square before tightening all bolts.
Step 12.
Re install cable lug and wiring loom
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket
Place cable onto nut and tighten, re plug in loom.
Step 13.
Re install serpentine belt
Tools used: 1/2 breaker bar, 14mm socket.
This one may take an assistant depending on how much your belt wants to fight you. Check all top engine bay pulleys that belt is on correctly. With the breaker on the tensioner pulley release tension and put belt on alternator.
Visually check belt and make sure it is on correctly on all pulleys
Step 14.
Reconnect battery(s) and test
Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket, Multi-meter
Reconnect battery(s), re check belt and start car.
Check belt is spinning freely, and alternator is spinning freely. Using multi meter check voltage at idle. Should be above 12.8 (i got 13.7 with lights and air con on). If not above 12.8 then something isn't connected!
Turn off car.
Step 15.
Re-install bash plates, wheel arch cover and wheel.
Tools used 3/8 ratchet, 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8 extension, 1/2 breaker bar, 21mm deep socket, jack stands, jack.
Re-install bash plates. Best way is to angle the back down and front up and line up the clip-lug things at the front the the holes. once they are in lift the back and put the 12mm bolts in. Then front bolts and tighten all round.
Re install wheel arch guard and wheel. Lower car to ground.
Re-start car and double check everything again.
Step 16.
Have a beer
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