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  • Alternator Replacement Guide

    G'day all,
    After having to change my alternator for the second time in 3 weeks (due to manufacturer defect) I took the opportunity to do a step by step guide to hold to tackle this job.
    I'd rate it an easy-medium job and all that is needed is a decent socket set and a multimeter. I feel that I am a semi knowledgeable home mechanic but if you see a flaw in my method feel free to let me know, always up to learn something.

    Tools used: jack, jack stand, 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 12mm socket, 3/8 10mm socket, 3/8 extension, 14mm ratchet spanner, 1/2 breaker bar, 1/2 21mm deep socket, 1/4 ratchet, 1/4 10mm socket, wd40, 1/2 14mm socket, 1/2 12mm socket, 1/2 ratchet, multimeter, wire brush.

    Time: 1-2 hours

    Step 1.
    Jack up car and remove front drivers side wheel.
    Tools used: jack, jack stand, breaker bar, 21mm deep socket.
    http://s7.postimg.org/vzbn1er17/1_Wheel_Removal.jpg
    Always remember jack stands!!
    http://s12.postimg.org/707fxrom5/2_Jack_Stands.jpg
    The alternator is located behind some removable plastic panels in the wheel well
    http://s15.postimg.org/enrn1bi7v/3_L...Alternator.jpg
    The one in there is 3000km old and already has failed...

    Step 2.
    Disconnect Battery(s)
    Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket.
    Always a must when working on anything electrical.
    http://s2.postimg.org/qfsr58ge1/4_Ba...Disconnect.jpg

    Step 3.
    Remove bash plate.
    Tools used: 3/8 ratchet, 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8 extension bar.
    There are 4x 12mm bolts on the Toyota one and 2x 10mm ones that connect the ARB plating to the OEM one.
    Best way to do it is the front ones first followed by the 2 rear ones. The OEM plate needs to pivot down and slide forward slightly to be removed. There are 2 clip-lug kind of things on the front end of it that will hold it up til removal.
    This will allow access to the bottom bolt of the alternator and the tensioner pulley.
    http://s21.postimg.org/trk094xkn/5_Bash_Plate_Bolts.jpg

    Step 4.
    Remove serpentine belt
    Tools used: 1/2 Breaker bar, 14mm socket.
    Locate the tensioner pulley and get the socket onto it (fiddly) then push the bar from the passenger to the drivers side and this will release the tension on the belt. Remove belt from the alternator. Takes a bit of muscle!
    http://s16.postimg.org/btgmos6x1/6_Tensioner_Pulley.jpg

    Step 5.
    Remove alternator cable and wiring loom.
    Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket, wd40
    Remove plastic cover over cable lug. This should come off easily, if not a small flat head screwdriver will do it. Unbolt 10mm nut and remove cable.
    Remove wiring loom located on back of unit. The push-down part of the clip is located on the top. I found just a tiny dab of wd40 made this a whole lot easier. This is the part where you will lose the knuckle skin.
    Put the nut back on the lug so you don't lose it.
    http://s8.postimg.org/rfbn92mxx/7_Cable_Cover.jpg
    http://s10.postimg.org/6z4prgwih/8_Cable_Lug.jpg
    http://s16.postimg.org/82ku7oxdx/10_4_Pin_Plug.jpg

    Step 6.
    Unbolt top and bottom alternator bolts.
    Tools used: 1/2 ratchet, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm ratchet spanner (optional)
    Unbolt top bolt of alternator using the 14mm socket/spanner. I found the spanner easier. Then way the alternator sits tightly in it's mount will not let it fall. Unbolt bottom bolt using 12mm socket. This is easiest from under the car looking up.
    http://s7.postimg.org/cu8ub0taz/11_Top_Bolt.jpg
    http://s21.postimg.org/v0vbaupdj/12_Bottom_Bolt.jpg (I got the bolt half way out before I took the photo here)
    http://s15.postimg.org/t9wwe603f/13_Bolts_out.jpg

    Step 7.
    Remove alternator
    Tools used: wd40
    Once again just a dab of wd40 where the top of the alternator meets the mount will help here.
    Best way to do it is to grip the unit and rock it back and forth how it swings naturally on the top mount. With a bit of pulling pressure and the rocking and it will make it's way out. The unit will fit out the hole in the wheel well with a bit of twisting and tetris.

    Step 8.
    Compare old/new alternator
    Tools used: nil
    Important step before installing. Make sure you have the right unit before installing it. Put them side by side and look at them.
    You may need to push in a washer on the top mount of the new unit. When you compare them you will see it. A strong G clamp will do this well.
    http://s7.postimg.org/xh6qntrh7/14_Comparison.jpg

    Step 9.
    Clean mounts.
    Tools used: Small wire brush.
    Clean off the cable, bolts and mounts for the best electrical connection.
    http://s27.postimg.org/6f0ho4ogj/15_Empty_Hole.jpg

    Step 10.
    Install new unit.
    Tools used: wd40
    Before shoving the new unit through the hole put a little wd40 on the top mounts. Once again it will make it way easier to get in.
    Tetris the unit through the hole and line it up. The top mount will be tight. If you use the same rocking action used to remove it but this time with forward pressure the unit will go in. This will take some practice.

    Step 11.
    Put bolts in.
    Tools used :1/2 socket, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 14mm ratchet spanner (optional)
    Install the top bolt first. This is slightly difficult as the tolerances are tight an since the unit is a snug fit moving it small amounts is difficult. Just persist, a little at a time and you will get it lined up well. Finger tight the top bolt.
    Line up the bottom bolt. If you find that the holes will not allign (like in my case), follow the bottom mount futher down to a hinging 12mm bolt. Undo it slightly and the mount will pivot to help you line it up. Finger tight the bottom bolt
    Check unit is square before tightening all bolts.

    Step 12.
    Re install cable lug and wiring loom
    Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket
    Place cable onto nut and tighten, re plug in loom.

    Step 13.
    Re install serpentine belt
    Tools used: 1/2 breaker bar, 14mm socket.
    This one may take an assistant depending on how much your belt wants to fight you. Check all top engine bay pulleys that belt is on correctly. With the breaker on the tensioner pulley release tension and put belt on alternator.
    Visually check belt and make sure it is on correctly on all pulleys

    Step 14.
    Reconnect battery(s) and test
    Tools used: 1/4 ratchet, 10mm socket, Multi-meter
    Reconnect battery(s), re check belt and start car.
    Check belt is spinning freely, and alternator is spinning freely. Using multi meter check voltage at idle. Should be above 12.8 (i got 13.7 with lights and air con on). If not above 12.8 then something isn't connected!
    Turn off car.

    Step 15.
    Re-install bash plates, wheel arch cover and wheel.
    Tools used 3/8 ratchet, 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/8 extension, 1/2 breaker bar, 21mm deep socket, jack stands, jack.
    Re-install bash plates. Best way is to angle the back down and front up and line up the clip-lug things at the front the the holes. once they are in lift the back and put the 12mm bolts in. Then front bolts and tighten all round.
    Re install wheel arch guard and wheel. Lower car to ground.
    Re-start car and double check everything again.

    Step 16.
    Have a beer

  • #2
    Looks handy Jimmy... Thanks for the work. Next time my alternator goes, I know where to go
    2013 (MY14 Facelift) GX - KDJ150R
    -ARB Alloy Roof Rack -SMART Bar -LED rear work light
    -Dual batt. (Red arc sBi) -Secondary fuel filter
    -9" Supacentre LED spotlights -Bushskinz bash plates
    -Safari snorkel

    Comment


    • #3
      Great write-up. Well done!

      I could have used it about three months ago when I did mine! The knuckles have healed now.
      2011 Blue Storm GXL D4D Auto, TJM T13 Bar, HR Towbar, GME TX3600 UHF, Tinted Windows, 15.1" DVD Player, Projecta 150A + 105Ah Marine Deep Cycle DBS, ABR Sidewinder ABD, Primus IQ brake controller, 40L Engel fridge and slide-lok, Ultragauge Blue ODBII

      [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?19629-Roadblock-s-2011-GXL-D4D-Build-up]My Rig Build-up[/url]

      Comment


      • #4
        My alternator stopped charging this morning, a bit piss poor at 120000 kms. Are they becoming common failures are they?.
        2011 White GXL Diesel, ARB Sahara bar, Lightforce Genesis, ARB under bonnet compressor, Dual Batteries, GME TX3540

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Craigo72 View Post
          My alternator stopped charging this morning, a bit piss poor at 120000 kms. Are they becoming common failures are they?.
          Not that I know of. Alternator life depends on so many factors and if you use your car for what it's intended for then 120k is nothing to get annoyed at.

          Comment


          • #6
            Mine went at 162030 Kms Glad I was home in Perth when it went $546 fitted while I waited. (long wait)

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by JimmyC View Post
              The one in there is 3000km old and already has failed...
              Nice write up. So who tore the covers off?
              Dave
              Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
              Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

              Comment


              • #8
                All done, finished it in three bourbons. $330 I wasn't planning on spending today but if it failed tomorrow we'd be staying home for the weekend or we'd be away and stranded with warm bourbon.
                2011 White GXL Diesel, ARB Sahara bar, Lightforce Genesis, ARB under bonnet compressor, Dual Batteries, GME TX3540

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bushbasher View Post
                  Nice write up. So who tore the covers off?
                  I hit a roo a while ago and it broke them then. Good times.
                  Seems everyone on here is getting their alternators way cheaper than I paid for mine. Guess it's what i get for needing a part on Christmas Eve

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    So it looks like I'll be replacing it again within the next week. (another warranty job). Does anyone have any suggestions of ways I could improve the guide? I can re-do certain parts if needed

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JimmyC View Post
                      So it looks like I'll be replacing it again within the next week. (another warranty job). Does anyone have any suggestions of ways I could improve the guide? I can re-do certain parts if needed
                      Just start out with step #16
                      SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
                      2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
                      LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Having done this job myself there is no need to remove the bash plates. I accessed the alternator through the gap in the inner fender after removing the road wheel and placing a jack under the chassis.
                        Dave
                        Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                        Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bushbasher View Post
                          Having done this job myself there is no need to remove the bash plates. I accessed the alternator through the gap in the inner fender after removing the road wheel and placing a jack under the chassis.
                          I agree, it is possible to do it, the reason for me removing the bash plates was to gain access to the tensioner pulley as I was unable to reach it from the top with my tools at hand. Any tips for getting at it from the top?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What brand and prices do decent alternators cost
                            denso ??
                            ebay range 150- 200 is pec a decent brand

                            http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121743142...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                            dont need one yet but at 160000 cant be far off
                            cheers
                            mike
                            White 2010 gx diesel auto, bilstein shocks 50mm lift king springs, tjm steps, warn 9500, lt265-65-17 bfg atko on steel rims. Racor 230R10 filter
                            Adelaide based

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              After my experience with non-genuine alternators I think I'd go genuine (denso)

                              Comment

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