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  • Prado 2.8 Aux Battery Setup

    I am in the process of putting together an aux. battery system and I just wanted to get some feedback from those more knowledgeable than myself.

    Optima D27F Battery
    Protecta DBC100 Battery System Isolator
    4AWG cable connecting the starter battery with 100A mega fuse inline running cable along channel just above radiator.
    160W Solar panels to top up the battery if not fully charged due to alternator not providing enough voltage, connected via an anderson plug in the engine bay.

    Have tested my alternator and whilst charging the starter battery the voltage is 13.8V, I have not been able to get a voltage whilst the starter battery is fully charged and alternator running in "low voltage" mode (I know there is a technical term for this but my brain has been dulled from all the research that I have done...). Would get one of the little gadgets to boost voltage but don't think that they suit my vehicle, LeighW any update on this? Anyone see a problem here?

    Also some thoughts on battery trays - should I pay close on $200 for a custom made for my vehicle or $20-30 for generic one?

    Still unsure where in the boot I am going to mount the two accessories plugs - open to suggestions.
    And do people usually run a single cable and then use a fused breakout box in the rear or do they run individual cables? What gauge cable do most tend to use.

    Thanks in advance for your feedback.

  • #2
    Twin core 6B&S to the rear to a fuse box.

    Comment


    • #3
      Sorry guys, no booster for the 2.8Ltr.
      HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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      • #4
        Use a generic plastic battery tray (like the factory tray) with standard clamps.
        You can replace the top brace with some flat-bar and brace to front above headlight for extra support.

        p.s can I ask that you run your set-up as described initally to see how the 2.8L keeps the optima charged?

        I for one am interested in the comments around the Optima's taking bulk charge quickly and this may off-set the need for a DC-DC as there is no booster option for the alternator at this stage.. The float voltage of the battery might be lower than the 13.1 I have with my DC-DC but you'll get back to 80%SOC much quicker than I can with my set-up.
        120D4D
        Avid PP Poster!
        Last edited by 120D4D; 23-02-2016, 02:39 PM. Reason: extra comment
        Cheers
        Micheal.

        2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
        2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

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        • #5
          I made my own battery tray, the factory battery support is quite good, essentially just need a flat structure to evenly support the battery. Then got a battery bracket from repco..

          I have my dual battery set up now with an isolator and noticed both batteries (starter/aux) will charge/spike to 13.6v quite quickly and even after an hours driving they will not go past 13.6v. When I turn the car off they will both settle after an hour or so down to 12.6v starter/12.7v aux..
          2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.

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          • #6
            The cable will depend on what you want to run off it. I ran 8B&S (positive and negative) to the back to a 6 way fuse block to run 3 outlets, one for the fridge and two for other accessories. I am also running a led strip light and a led work light form it, was a lot easier then running separate wires and keeps all the fuses in one spot for all the points in the rear. It has no voltage drop that I can detect.
            I also ran a separate 6B&S to the rear for the anderson plug.
            2015 GX Prado 3L Auto, in the process of being fitted out.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Lski View Post
              I made my own battery tray, the factory battery support is quite good, essentially just need a flat structure to evenly support the battery. Then got a battery bracket from repco..

              I have my dual battery set up now with an isolator and noticed both batteries (starter/aux) will charge/spike to 13.6v quite quickly and even after an hours driving they will not go past 13.6v. When I turn the car off they will both settle after an hour or so down to 12.6v starter/12.7v aux..
              That's as high as the 3L batteries go with 14.5v charge, sounds ok.


              Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
              [CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
              [/CENTER]

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              • #8
                [QUOTE=MYT150;538679] It has no voltage drop that I can detect.
                QUOTE]

                Did you measure the voltage drop when the fridge and other accessories were running?

                S
                155 SX with dual battery and Polyairs in the rear springs..

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                • #9
                  Thanks all for the advice.

                  What size fuses do most people run for down the rear, I will be running a 75L fridge and strip lighting?

                  I have a kakadu 2.8L and am having trouble finding space in the rear to mount the rear connections anyone got any advice or experience?
                  Last edited by BenB; 23-02-2016, 10:59 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BenB View Post
                    What size fuses do most people run for down the rear?
                    50A fuse at the aux battery end. Then at the rear fuse box, whatever size to suit the cable size. Usually 15A to cig lighter/merit socket.

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                    • #11
                      I have the fuse block mounted in with the jack using velcro, and the outlets are flush mounted in the panel beside it, as long as you don't mind making the holes, need an 18mm spade bit, from memory. I also have a surface mounted socket for the fridge so the plug runs parallel to the side rather then sticking out to far.

                      I used a 40amp fuse, from memory, at the battery and then 15amp for the sockets at the back.
                      2015 GX Prado 3L Auto, in the process of being fitted out.

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                      • #12
                        You actually don't have to run twin core, the body is a perfectly fine earth point and can flow more current than any wire can. What you do need to be sure of is that all earth points are clean and free of paint before bolting the earth cable to it, also insure the body to battery earths are up to spec. Use the money you saved from twin core to pay for heavyer cable and be even safer. If you are unsure it is always better to run your earth back to a known good earth. If you want to get right into it both your batteries should be directly earthed to the power source (alternator) otherwise you're relying on the body/engine to transfer electrical current while the vehicle is charging. Where you need to measure voltage drop is actually between the positive and negative wires of the accessory you are running while it is drawing the most current it will.

                        My system runs 3b&s positive from the battery through a 100amp fuse down to a fuse block in the rear. The negative is also 3b&s from the fuse block to a body earth point and 3b&s from the negative terminal to a body earth point. No measurable voltage drop in that system.
                        [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
                        TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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                        • #13
                          There is a reason the manufactures run both earth and battery wiring harnesses!
                          HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MYT150 View Post
                            I have the fuse block mounted in with the jack using velcro, and the outlets are flush mounted in the panel beside it, as long as you don't mind making the holes, need an 18mm spade bit, from memory. I also have a surface mounted socket for the fridge so the plug runs parallel to the side rather then sticking out to far.
                            Any chance you can put a picture up?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by LeighW View Post
                              There is a reason the manufactures run both earth and battery wiring harnesses!
                              Sorry LeighW, I'm not sure I know what you mean....but honestly, would love to hear your thoughts...am I right in saying that you would run both a positive and negative cable and not use the chassis as the earth, or negative....because I did run both positive and negative cables in my previous Prado...and I know a lot of people do. I personally haven't sen a set up with just a positive cable, and them a couple of short earthing cables to the chassis.

                              SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

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