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  • Aircon System Help

    Hi Guys,

    My AC is not working properly. My car is a 2008 GXL with climate control and rear air con.

    The symptoms are as follows:

    Not very cold at front drivers side vents. The heater system works. I occasionally get a foggy mist from the vents.
    Ambient temperature on passangers side vents. The heater system works.
    Not very cold at rear vents.
    There's no water dripping out of the front system under the car but there is water dripping out of the rear system under the car. I checked the front drain pipe coming out of the fire wall for blockage. It's clear.
    The high pressure pipe at the compressor is too hot to touch but the low pressure pipe is only slightly colder than ambient.
    The fan on the condensor didn't kick in after the car idled for 10 minutes with the AC on. The fan does work as I tested it by unplugging and connecting direct to 12V.
    I've checked for signs of oil stains on the parts of the system that I can see under the engine bay. There's nothing obvious.
    The compressor clutch engages when the AC button is pressed. It didn't cycle in and out in the 10 minutes I ran it at idle.

    The system was regassed 3 weeks ago. I was told by the technician that the system was low on gas, down to approximately half weight. The system was evacuated and held vacuum for 40 minutes before it was regassed.

    I'll be taking it back to the shop that regassed the system. Any idea as to what the problem could be?

    Thanks,
    2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

  • #2
    I know it might sound stupid, what is the cabin filter like? If it is blocked it can significantly reduce air flow and reduce the effectiveness of you A/C system.

    The evaporator could be blocked, over time the fins can get dust and dirt particles sticking to them, eventually becoming a muddy blocked up mess.

    The expansion valve for the front A/C system could be faulty, not allowing the gas to flow correctly.

    That would be about the size of it I guess, that is assuming the blower fan and controls are working.
    [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
    TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Aussie Andy.

      The AC filter was changed 6 months ago. I change these every 12 months. I've not had a look to see if it's disintegrated. I'll do that today. The fan works properly. If the problem is the evapourator can it be replaced without removing the dash?
      2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

      Comment


      • #4
        Ok, checked the ac filter, was dirty but intact. I replaced it but no change.
        2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

        Comment


        • #5
          Back to the A/C specialist then I would advise. You would assume the compressor, gas, condenser, etc. is all ok as the rear A/C is working fine. It could also be an issue with the control side. Sounds like it's time for the professionals.
          [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
          TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah, it could be a number of things from what you are saying - pretty hard to diagnose without hooking gauges up to see what the manifold pressures are doing.

            Your high side line is always hot - it should be too hot to touch, so thats not the issue.
            If the compressor is engaging, it means there is enough refrigerant to cycle the system - they will only come on if they are in the parameters of the high/low pressure cut out switch.

            And your fan on the condenser doesn't come on unless it gets within a certain head pressure, it wont come on all the time.
            As AussieAndy said, it could be the front TX valve thats faulty & not allowing refrigerant through to the front evaporator, but more than likely it will be a refrigerant level issue - because if your rear air is working ok, most of the time its because its a smaller evaporator and deals with refrigerant loss a lot better than the front one.

            Question though, before the tech regassed your system, was your a/c working ok?
            The reason I ask is that in the industry, because of the price of R134a refrigerant, its become a lot more common for some techs to use blended refrigerants due to the cheaper price.
            The issue being is that a lot of newer a/c systems are very temperamental with anything but R134a refrigerant - namely TX valves & compressor valves.
            Not to mention the fact that some are LPG based and can dry out oil & seals and cause premature compressor failure - they arent much chop to be honest.

            Some places use them and swear by them, but i've seen the flip side of it & it can be very costly when you have to replace a seized compressor, then condenser, drier & tx valves & flush all the lines because metal shards have gone right though the whole lot....

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Topic97.

              The AC was working before the regas. It just wasn't getting very cold. The behaviour of the system a few weeks after the regas is the same as it was just before the regas. The glass window in front of the radiator shows moisture when the compressor is running. I'm not sure what it was like before the regas. The day the system was regassed I could see heaps of fluro die in the sight glass. There's not a lot visible now.
              2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

              Comment


              • #8
                Ahh, righto - id say its all a gas issue then.
                What they have done is put a UV dye in the system to try and find a leak & then recharged it to full capacity.
                Depending on where the leak is, often when you regas it'll show up the leak a lot more severe as its now running at full pressure.
                And that pretty much tells me they have used a blended gas, as its illegal to recharge with R134a when there is a known leak in the system!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
                  Hi Guys,

                  My AC is not working properly. My car is a 2008 GXL with climate control and rear air con.

                  The symptoms are as follows:

                  Not very cold at front drivers side vents. The heater system works. I occasionally get a foggy mist from the vents.
                  Ambient temperature on passangers side vents. The heater system works.
                  Not very cold at rear vents.
                  There's no water dripping out of the front system under the car but there is water dripping out of the rear system under the car. I checked the front drain pipe coming out of the fire wall for blockage. It's clear.
                  The high pressure pipe at the compressor is too hot to touch but the low pressure pipe is only slightly colder than ambient.
                  The fan on the condensor didn't kick in after the car idled for 10 minutes with the AC on. The fan does work as I tested it by unplugging and connecting direct to 12V.
                  I've checked for signs of oil stains on the parts of the system that I can see under the engine bay. There's nothing obvious.
                  The compressor clutch engages when the AC button is pressed. It didn't cycle in and out in the 10 minutes I ran it at idle.

                  The system was regassed 3 weeks ago. I was told by the technician that the system was low on gas, down to approximately half weight. The system was evacuated and held vacuum for 40 minutes before it was regassed.

                  I'll be taking it back to the shop that regassed the system. Any idea as to what the problem could be?

                  Thanks,

                  It's over gassed.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
                    Hi Topic97.

                    The AC was working before the regas. It just wasn't getting very cold. The behaviour of the system a few weeks after the regas is the same as it was just before the regas. The glass window in front of the radiator shows moisture when the compressor is running. I'm not sure what it was like before the regas. The day the system was regassed I could see heaps of fluro die in the sight glass. There's not a lot visible now.
                    To get it working better reverse flush condenser.
                    Make sure engine fan is pulling air through condenser.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Nah it won't be over gassed, it'll be under gassed from those symptoms.
                      If the compressor is running non stop, this indicates that its not getting cool enough to cycle - meaning that either the TX valve isn't letting enough or any refrigerant through to cool the evaporator down to cycle, or that the refrigerant level is too low and the compressor cant pull it down low enough to the desired parameters of the thermistor.

                      If its over-gassed, it will have high head pressures & the compressor will be cycling on and off - usually like crazy.
                      The condenser fan will also be running to compensate for the high head pressure.

                      If it was working fine after they regassed the system & then has dropped off gradually a few weeks after - you'll be looking at a leak somewhere.
                      Hence why they have put UV dye in the system.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks all. The car goes in on later in the week be looked at again.

                        I'm hoping I don't get told there's an evaporator issue and the dash has to come out to fix it. I had a quick look at where the AC pipes go inside the cabin. They terminate in the middle section of the dash behind the radio. There's no joints in the pipe from where it comes through the firewall same with the heater pipes so I'm not confident that it will come out without a full dash removal.
                        2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What was the outcome? Sounds like a leaking evaporator and needs a full dash removal to replace.
                          2008 D4D GXL

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Leaking evaporator. Replaced with a genuine denso unit. $800 all up including regas. Works perfectly.
                            2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That's a good price. My quotes are double that. For $880 I could get the dashboard removed and evaporator fitted but I would have to supply the evaporator and get it gassed up.
                              2008 D4D GXL

                              Comment

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