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Loss of Coolant 2005 Toyota Prado V6 4.0 (120)

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  • Loss of Coolant 2005 Toyota Prado V6 4.0 (120)

    I have decided I have to do this head gasket repair myself!
    Can anyone help me with a workshop manual or specs?
    Is there anything special that I need to know?
    Do I have to replace the head bolts?
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    Enjoy your evening.
    Alex

  • #2
    Im not sure if one exists or not, but do a YouTube search using your engine number and head gasket and see if there's a 3 or 4 part walk through video uploaded. There's a very detailed and well explained 4 part video on the 5VZ-FE engine for the 90 series Prado/American Toyota Tacoma that will come in handy if I ever need to do this one day. Each video goes for 30 minutes and everything's covered from start to finish.
    2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by AlexMW View Post
      I have decided I have to do this head gasket repair myself!
      Can anyone help me with a workshop manual or specs?
      Is there anything special that I need to know?
      Do I have to replace the head bolts?
      Any advice would be appreciated.
      Enjoy your evening.
      Alex
      Hey Alex,

      There's a decent description of what you need to do here, along with lots of photos;

      http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...4-misfire.html

      Also see here for stripping down the topworks when I did my timing cover;

      http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...IY-fix-at-home

      These should get you under way. I'd replace the head bolts with new OEM replacements.

      Good luck, it's not that hard to do at home!

      Best

      Mark
      2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you Brett1979. I do appreciate you advice. I will look on YouTube and on the websites Whitey has suggested. Will let you know how it goes. I should have the parts in the next 3 weeks or so.

        Regards,
        Alex

        Comment


        • #5
          Can anyone answer this question - Could condensation cause very little creamy colour on oil filler cap?

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm replacing the Head Gaskets on my 2005 Prado V6 4.0L - 1GE-FE

            I have taken all parts off the engine. I have discovered a thick oil deposit on the #6 port of the inlet manifold. All other ports are clean. Could anyone tell me why I would have oil here?

            When I drained the oil I found no water. Now comes the big question, can I remove the right side head without stripping the timing cover and pulleys off because I don't see gaskets for the timing cover in the head set I bought from Toyota South Africa.

            I am now starting to doubt that I have a blown head gasket but I am still loosing coolant but I don't know to where. I did have a pressure test done and replaced the radiator cap. After 150km's my expansion tank was empty and I had a small amount of white creamy substance under the oil filler cap. I put this down to condensation.

            I would really appreciate some advice here, please.

            Alex

            Comment


            • #7
              Hey Alex,

              Unfortunately you will have to remove the timing cover to get the heads off.

              If you're unsure where/if you're leaking coolant, I would start by replacing the water pump, relatively cheap and easy job. The pumps weep hole can sometimes leak a fair bit.

              To test if you're really leaking coolant through a head gasket, try this test where you can pull the coil pack and blow back through;

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM4Rfq-wvag

              Best of luck!

              Mark
              2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by AlexMW View Post
                I'm replacing the Head Gaskets on my 2005 Prado V6 4.0L - 1GE-FE

                I have taken all parts off the engine. I have discovered a thick oil deposit on the #6 port of the inlet manifold. All other ports are clean. Could anyone tell me why I would have oil here?

                When I drained the oil I found no water. Now comes the big question, can I remove the right side head without stripping the timing cover and pulleys off because I don't see gaskets for the timing cover in the head set I bought from Toyota South Africa.

                I am now starting to doubt that I have a blown head gasket but I am still loosing coolant but I don't know to where. I did have a pressure test done and replaced the radiator cap. After 150km's my expansion tank was empty and I had a small amount of white creamy substance under the oil filler cap. I put this down to condensation.

                I would really appreciate some advice here, please.

                Alex
                Shorter drives especially in colder weather can absolutely create this creamy stuff under the oil cap. Very common.
                I had it too. Due to condensation not leaving the engine with short trips.


                As in your coolant. If you never overheated I doubt you blew a gasket.
                these motors are good.

                Either water pump leak though the pink coolant should crystalise and you should be able to see it.
                Other one is slow leak at the radiator. Very slow ones you can slightly smell it but it drains slowly.

                take the radiator off and do a leak test from a radiator place.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey Alex

                  I'm facing same exact issue...
                  1- car overheating on idle and low speed only.
                  2- water inside radiator got partially vanished
                  3- coolant reservoir still full
                  4- no white or creamy thing in oil cap, radiator, ,coolant reservoir or exhaust tip. I even changed oil and no coolant.
                  5- I can smell coolant ( out side of the car ) everytime I shut down the engine

                  I changed thermostat, Rad cap, water pump, flush the radiator ( no clogged ). All parts changed first time after 400,000km

                  Any help?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi,

                    I've got the same exact same issue..

                    Initially(3 months ago) we had a rough idle when cold my mech replaced the points and swapped the coils around told the car should be fine to take up to Fraser.

                    Return from Fraser.. new radiator in Brisbane after leaking some coolant from the radiator after leaving Fraser. NB no milky oil on checking.

                    Driving back from QLD I had to keep topping the radiator up even though the coolant reservoir was full or over full. At this stage I was starting to thing the air in the radiator was related to the rough start..

                    Fortunately we got our radiator installed by a nation wide company of mobile mechanics so they have been really good with follow up service free of charge. Initially they told us that the air in the radiator wasn't from the cylinder.. eventually they changed tune after about 10 phone calls and 3 visits by them later.. My worries were true.. leaking head..

                    So my Options are:
                    -new (used) engine still waiting on quote for I'm guessing $5ish from looking at ebay for a 1GR-FE engine..
                    -Rebuild the engine we have(price unknown.. about the same as the engine from a wreckers I'm guessing.. just the risk is the engine is more stuffed than we think and won't know untill it's stripped down.
                    -Gunk the engine up with bars leaks(cheap option$15) and sell the car in the medium term(dodgy yes..)

                    What to do???

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Think i would take the rebuild option
                      turtlewa
                      Member
                      Last edited by turtlewa; 11-08-2017, 11:09 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'd get it pressure tested.

                        On our Western Australian adventure, we had over heating issue after passing a road train in 35 degree temp.

                        Turns out it after limping into a Perth mechanic, he pressure tested the cooling system and it was the radiator cap that had failed.


                        Sadly, I think that anyone else that has a head gasket go just does an engine swap....
                        [FONT=Century Gothic][B][SIZE=4][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?36057-Ryback-s-Flinders-Red-120"][COLOR="#B22222"]'04 120 Petrol Flinders Red GXL[/URL][/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]
                        with ARB Catalog, with TJM add ons!

                        [CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by cfryback View Post
                          I'd get it pressure tested.

                          radiator cap that had failed.


                          Sadly, I think that anyone else that has a head gasket go just does an engine swap....
                          Wasn't the Cap.. I replaced that in hope as with checking the hoses..


                          The Saga continues...
                          Quote for a new Used engine is in.. $6,800.00 for an engine with 180,000km on it.. apparently the 1GR-FE is a rare engine..

                          I'm thinking Bars Leaks equivalent and end at the wreckers in a year or 2..

                          Wreckers has quoted me $3000,00 in its current state.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Update after long trip I shut down the engine for few hours
                            1- No coolant coolant reservoir
                            2- No water in Rad
                            3- one of the belts near the water pump start cutting

                            Everytime I refill both Rad and coolant reservoir I saw white bubbles in the Rad

                            Why buy another engine or rebuild it?

                            Isn't new Head gasket and head studs would solve the issue?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Btw...I got airbag sign for all those issue
                              Is that mean anything?

                              Comment

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