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  • Method of flushing transmission

    G'day all,
    Thought I'd share an experience with a service just to see what the thoughts are on the method used.
    Put my car in to have the transmission fluid changed and the method they used was the drop the fluid in the trans (approx. 4.5L) and refill. Then I was told to drive it as normal for a couple of weeks and come back and they will do the same again and this will eventually flush all the new fluid through and get the old stuff out.
    In theory it will work but wondering if it's an off method or what?

    Cheers

  • #2
    Hey Jimmy,

    I'm just about to flush mine. I think the most common technique is to drop what's in the pan, replace it. Then pump out roughly 2 litres into a bucket, replace it, pump another 2 litres, replace it, keep doing this until you get clear oil coming out.

    Best

    Mark
    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Also I know this may be a silly one but it seems like it is something I can do myself fairly easily.
      I have read a lot about the process of the fluid change and the need for certain temperatures due to fluid expansion etc.
      The thought that keeps popping into my head (and I saw it done on Eric the car guy) is to simply measure how much fluid your dropped and refill it with the same amount. The way I'd use to get around the expansion factor is to drop the old fluid while the car is cold, so therefore the fluid will be close to ambient temperature (and double check with a thermometer) and then refill with the same amount of fluid of the same temperature. I understand that the trans is sensitive but surely not so sensitive that a change of +/- 50mL of fluid will ruin it.
      Any thoughts?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Whitey View Post
        Hey Jimmy,

        I'm just about to flush mine. I think the most common technique is to drop what's in the pan, replace it. Then pump out roughly 2 litres into a bucket, replace it, pump another 2 litres, replace it, keep doing this until you get clear oil coming out.
        Yeah that's what I've read too. The method my mechanic is employing sounds like that, just over a longer period?
        Cheers,
        James

        Comment


        • #5
          Also, if you over fill it it will just pump out the breather till it's at the right level.
          (I learnt the hard way)

          Comment


          • #6
            Havent did on the prado but did in my R51 pathfinder. Did in the morning when pathy was cold. Drop the pan n drain the oil. Replace filter and fill back with same amount of oil. Never had any problem with transmission of pathy.
            Pearl white kakadu rolling on fuel hostage 18" with 285 60 18

            Comment


            • #7
              Dodgy.
              Auto Transmission places have specific equipment that removes all the fluid, particularly from the Torque Convertor. By dumping 4.5L then refilling.... then redumping another 4.5L and refilling again with another 4.5L... you are still leaving AT LEAST 1.9 L of the old fluid somewhere in the system, not including the portion of DILUTED old fluid in the 2 x lots of 4.5L new fluid you have put in.
              These transmissions are not indestructible. For $400 an auto trans shop will drain, flush and refill it, plus put in a new filter and gasket. Bear in mind that nearly half the cost is the new fluid.
              JMHO
              Stan Miko

              - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

              Comment


              • #8
                This method has worked for me. I do it every 60 000km with 8L of fluid. I didn't see the point of using 12L given the fluid is getting changed relatively frequently. Only did a 12L flush the first time just out of warranty to get most of the old fluid out. After 60 000km the fluid is dark red, not brown so it could probably go another 20 000km before a change.

                I've never dropped the pan to change or clean the filter and magnets.



                Originally posted by Whitey View Post
                Hey Jimmy,

                I'm just about to flush mine. I think the most common technique is to drop what's in the pan, replace it. Then pump out roughly 2 litres into a bucket, replace it, pump another 2 litres, replace it, keep doing this until you get clear oil coming out.

                Best

                Mark
                2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
                  This method has worked for me. I do it every 60 000km with 8L of fluid. I didn't see the point of using 12L given the fluid is getting changed relatively frequently. Only did a 12L flush the first time just out of warranty to get most of the old fluid out. After 60 000km the fluid is dark red, not brown so it could probably go another 20 000km before a change.

                  I've never dropped the pan to change or clean the filter and magnets.
                  I agree that if has been a regimental thing, started early, and performed regularly, then this process would probably suffice. BUT, without knowing the history of a particular transmission, my first point of call would be a transmission specialist and start from scratch. THEN, begin the regular drain and refill regime from that time.
                  Stan Miko

                  - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Going through the investigation of a ATF change on my 2010 GXL D4D (150K km). Spoken to a number of auto txm places and the price varies from about $380 to $550 for a 'service and flush'. Just got off the phone to a local Toyota service department and had a long chat with the guy there.

                    He says;

                    The ATF is designed not to be changed (heard this one before on PP) and it's colour is no indication of a overheating or other problem. He says that it will turn slightly brown shortly after being new anyway. (Tend to remember reading in the Service Book that the ATF gets a change, at 80k I think??)

                    If there are changing issues or anything abnormal with the AT it will be more than just a ATF change that will be required.

                    The O/T light comes on around 150C as a warning to "do something I'm getting too hot". Such as slow to eg 80kph and let it cool. If you don't it will go into limp mode at 60kph.

                    The are no filters in the AT as there were in the older types of AT's. Nothing to change here in a service.

                    Non standard bull bar installations often remove/block a duct that runs on the RHS from the grille to direct air onto the radiator ATF cooling section. Having an after market ATF cooler like the Craig Davies is a good idea.

                    His price for a txm service is $240. Thats for a drain and refill. To do a flush $550.

                    The Toyota ATF-WS (p/no. 0888602305) has no equivalent and must be used as damage may occur. (This has been disputed on PP posts)

                    He has seen many LC's with 300K and plus km that have had no AT issues with ATF.

                    What the hell do you do aye? Who's right and who's out to get you to spend money? I have just got my CD 678 AT cooler to fit which arrived today and will see what colour my ATF is when I crack the connections on the radiator to add the cooler in series. Only towing a campervan but going on a 4 month trip this year so want to do something to protected the AT. Scangauge last year saw TQ converter temps up to 130C in the climb up the Cumberland Gap on a hot day.

                    Just another topic to keep us all talking with a number of differing views I guess. It all boils down to who you believe in the end.

                    Cheers, Geoff
                    Vk3zgw
                    Junior Member
                    Last edited by Vk3zgw; 16-01-2017, 04:32 PM. Reason: spelling!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A few glaring mistakes; 1. Brown fluid is a sign of oxidation and breakdown, it should keep a reddish tinge. 2. 150C will kill even the best ATF fluid very quickly. 3. Oil does not last forever, especially if has worked hard eg towing and hence regular high temps.

                      Oil is the life blood of machines. I'm not into unnecessary oil changes such as engine oil every 5k which often does more harm than good, but leaving oil in past it's use by date is even worse.
                      [B]Steve[/B]

                      2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Vk3zgw View Post

                        He says;



                        If there are changing issues or anything abnormal with the AT it will be more than just a ATF change that will be required.

                        Cheers, Geoff
                        I tend to disagree with him on this point (and a few others). My 120 was very sluggish on changes and by doing nothing other than a full flush with 12lts of Penrite WS equivalent it ran like a brand new one again. Not sure if it had been changed before as I bought it with 200 000 on the clock and did the flush at about 220 000. What came out was black as and smelly. Now at 235 000 and running like a dream. All up cost about $180 including buying a Tom Thumb pump to refill trans. Took less than an hour to get under it andwork out what to do (thanks PP) and do it.
                        1997 petrol auto, 430 000km. Still going strong.
                        2004 petrol auto, 233 000km. Cracked dash and no help from Toyota!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The price for Toyota WS is $66 for a 4L tin up here in the NT. The equivalent penrite is $50.49 from SCA for 4L.
                          Reading the flush procedure on the toyota service system thing doesn't seem like it will get everything either, more so seems that it dilutes it a lot too.
                          I look at it this way (with some round figures that are easy to work with).
                          If the trans holds 12L and you drain/replace 4L:
                          1st go- 33% new fluid, 66% old fluid
                          2nd go- 56% new fluid, 44% old fluid
                          3rd go- 71% new fluid, 29% old fluid
                          4th go- 81% new fluid, 19% old fluid (9.72L new 2.28 old)

                          Now that does not seem too bad for doing it via a procedure that is relatively 'safe' for the novice to do without big opportunity for stuff ups.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The 1st time I drained my transmission I let it sit over night, drove it up on ramps the next morning and dumped almost 10L out of it.
                            Fitted the trans cooler, filled it up, took it for a quick spin to check it and get it up to temp then topped it off.
                            Seems to have done the job.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I will debate anyone at any time who tries to tell me that changing the engine oil or transmission oil, more regularly than service manuals tell you, does more harm than good.

                              Transmission Fluid is an OIL. All oils degenerate over time, thus service interevals show as e.g. 10,000km OR 6 months. NO oil is non-changeable for life, sorry.
                              Stan Miko

                              - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

                              Comment

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