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  1. #1
    Member
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    Jan 2015
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    Weston, NSW
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    165

    Engine oil flush

    In the past I have used a Liqui-Moly or a CEM Engine Oil Flush product, but have run out of both. After discussing the Prado with a mate of mine up the road who also has a 120 series (but petrol) he has suggested just using some KERO in the engine oil prior to draining it. Has anyone heard anything like this? Do you simply pour some into the top after the engine is warm and run it for a short period of time to circulate and clean some of the crap out a bit?
    Stan Miko

    - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

  2. #2
    Advanced Member Brett1979's Avatar
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lockyer Valley, Qld
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    692
    I'm sure someone will have a differing opinion, but why do you need to run an engine oil flush treatment? I know a lot of mechanical workshops like to do it but I always thought that was just a cash grab pure and simple. If you're changing your oil on or by the specified intervals there should never be a reason to run an oil flush, or am I wrong in saying that? Or maybe it's recommended for diesels? When I had my rocker covers off at 350,000km the cams were clean as a whistle and I've only ever mainly used mineral oil lubricants. It's a good idea to drain the engine oil when the motor is hot, that way you get rid of everything. Leave the sump bolt off for over an hour. It doesn't burn at all if you wear a latex glove and only have your thumb and index finger in the path for a split second.

    You'll notice that when you drain the oil into an oil drain pan, and then pour that into an empty oil bottle, after that if you lean the pan vertically against the wall of the house or something with the spout in the opening of the oil bottle, the pan will drain fairly clean over the course of an hour or two. A quick wipe with a paper towell and its clean as before putting away until next time. But hot oil does exit the engine much better than ambient temperature oil and leaves hardly any trace behind. It also has all the contaminants suspended in it. I personally would use an engine oil flush if I didn't change my oil for 30,000km or something. But I'd never do that.
    Last edited by Brett1979; 12-01-2017 at 08:12 PM.
    98 GXL 3.4L V6: TJM 2" lift, Airtec snorkel, TJM T15 steel bull bar, 8500lbs T-Max winch, 100w Roo Lite Spotlights, TJM alloy roof cage, Dual batteries, breathers to everything, TJM Air Compressor, Maxxis Bighorns. ODO = 360,000km.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Weston, NSW
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    165
    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1979 View Post
    I'm sure someone will have a differing opinion, but why do you need to run an engine oil flush treatment? I know a lot of mechanical workshops like to do it but I always thought that was just a cash grab pure and simple. If you're changing your oil on or by the specified intervals there should never be a reason to run an oil flush, or am I wrong in saying that? Or maybe it's recommended for diesels? When I had my rocker covers off at 350,000km the cams were clean as a whistle and I've only ever mainly used mineral oil lubricants. It's a good idea to drain the engine oil when the motor is hot, that way you get rid of everything. Leave the sump bolt off for over an hour. It doesn't burn at all if you wear a latex glove and only have your thumb and index finger in the path for a split second.

    You'll notice that when you drain the oil into an oil drain pan, and then pour that into an empty oil bottle, after that if you lean the pan vertically against the wall of the house or something with the spout in the opening of the oil bottle, the pan will drain fairly clean over the course of an hour or two. A quick wipe with a paper towell and its clean as before putting away until next time. But hot oil does exit the engine much better than ambient temperature oil and leaves hardly any trace behind. It also has all the contaminants suspended in it. I personally would use an engine oil flush if I didn't change my oil for 30,000km or something. But I'd never do that.
    Thanks, Brett.

    I understand all of that, and it's the way I have been doing it every 5,000km since I bought it 2 years ago. I let it drain from hot for at least a couple hours, so that I can have a bo-peep in the sump drain hole to check out the oil pick up screen. Just wanting to ensure that I get as much crud out of the system before putting in nice clean oil. Also doing the sump removal and oil pick up screen clean routine this service to start from scratch, so just wanting to make sure the system has the best opportunity to be as clean of crud as possible.
    Stan Miko

    - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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