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Hey everyone.
I just recently changed my AT fluid in my 2006 D4D 5sp 120 Prado. Just wanted to share my experiences.
Used Penrite ATF LV. I didn't end up changing the filter for 2 reasons. I would have had to wait a few weeks for one from Japan (as per local Toyota service centre). Also, as it's a mesh filter and not a 'comprehensive' filter like an oil or air filter, I didn't think it was necessary. My understanding is that the mesh filter is just there to catch large particles that may break off as a result of the casting process during manufacture. Anyway, that's my reason. I'm sure others will disagree. Yes, as I didn't drop the pan I didn't clean the magnets.
Did the full flush thing by draining pan, hooking up cooler line, starting car etc. Finished off with checking the level by jumping ports 4 and 13 on the diagnostic thingie. Ended up using about 10 litres before fresh fluid came out. Also moved from park through to D when flushing it through. I'm not sure if this flushed more or less old fluid out.
There is a major difference now. The gear shifts are much faster and crisper on both upshifts and kickdowns. Car has 230,000 km and I don't know if it was ever done. The old stuff was very black and smelt burnt. There weren't any sparkling metal particles in the fluid which was good.
I've just driven around the suburbs and based on this, I can recommend the Penrite ATF LV as an OEM WS replacement. Haven't taken it off road yet but will report back once I have.
Cheers,
Daniel.
PS. What I found very interesting was that I measured what came out each time I started the car and replaced the exact amount. When I put the car into diagnostic mode and pulled out the overflow plug, nothing came out! I ended up putting an an additional 750ml before fluid dribbled out of the overflow!
I just recently changed my AT fluid in my 2006 D4D 5sp 120 Prado. Just wanted to share my experiences.
Used Penrite ATF LV. I didn't end up changing the filter for 2 reasons. I would have had to wait a few weeks for one from Japan (as per local Toyota service centre). Also, as it's a mesh filter and not a 'comprehensive' filter like an oil or air filter, I didn't think it was necessary. My understanding is that the mesh filter is just there to catch large particles that may break off as a result of the casting process during manufacture. Anyway, that's my reason. I'm sure others will disagree. Yes, as I didn't drop the pan I didn't clean the magnets.
Did the full flush thing by draining pan, hooking up cooler line, starting car etc. Finished off with checking the level by jumping ports 4 and 13 on the diagnostic thingie. Ended up using about 10 litres before fresh fluid came out. Also moved from park through to D when flushing it through. I'm not sure if this flushed more or less old fluid out.
There is a major difference now. The gear shifts are much faster and crisper on both upshifts and kickdowns. Car has 230,000 km and I don't know if it was ever done. The old stuff was very black and smelt burnt. There weren't any sparkling metal particles in the fluid which was good.
I've just driven around the suburbs and based on this, I can recommend the Penrite ATF LV as an OEM WS replacement. Haven't taken it off road yet but will report back once I have.
Cheers,
Daniel.
PS. What I found very interesting was that I measured what came out each time I started the car and replaced the exact amount. When I put the car into diagnostic mode and pulled out the overflow plug, nothing came out! I ended up putting an an additional 750ml before fluid dribbled out of the overflow!
Whitey
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