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Very hot axle flanges

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  • Very hot axle flanges

    I am a little concerned at the temperatures my rear axle flanges are getting to after high speed driving even for only 10 mins at 100kph. I don't know the exact temperature but I can't hold my finger on the centre of the axle flanges for more than a few seconds. I checked the axle housing inside the wheel about where the wheel bearings sit and it is cool to touch. I am assuming from this that the wheel bearings which are not making a sound are ok. I have backed off the park brake until the handbrake only just manages to apply before the hand lever runs out of travel. I noticed when I replaced the brake rotors that the old drum was blue from heat. I can't detect any drag by sound or feel. My conclusion is that this is normal and the heat is generated by the diff and conducted along the axle to the axle flanges. I'm not confident enough to ignore this and I am towing a caravan from port Augusta north and up through the north of Wetern Australia. So I' d like to be a little more sure. I will also seek advice from Toyota but I don't always trust the dealers.

  • #2
    Backing off the handbrake will not help if the handbrake shoes are not adjusted correctly inside the drum, maybe yours are dragging? There is a slot in the backing plate that allows you to get a screwdriver in to adjust the starwheel inside. Best done with the wheel off so you can feel the drag on the drum, should be just a hint of the shoes brushing the drum. Usually takes me a bit of trial and error to get right, if I am lazy I install the wheel, you might have to put on a couple of wheel nuts to keep the hub/disc from moving around.

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    • #3
      When I said I adjusted the brakes I did mean at the drums. On my model the hole for the ratchet wheel is accessed by removing the wheel and rotating the disc to line up a hole in the drum with the adjuster wheel. I backed the adjuster off three clicks at a time each side until the handbrake lever almost ran out of travel. I then use a large screwdriver to rotate the disc while I listen for scraping sounds, after applying the handbrake a couple of times to centre the shoes.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Maurie View Post
        When I said I adjusted the brakes I did mean at the drums. On my model the hole for the ratchet wheel is accessed by removing the wheel and rotating the disc to line up a hole in the drum with the adjuster wheel. I backed the adjuster off three clicks at a time each side until the handbrake lever almost ran out of travel. I then use a large screwdriver to rotate the disc while I listen for scraping sounds, after applying the handbrake a couple of times to centre the shoes.
        Yeah, now I remember why you have to remove the wheels!
        Sounds like you have it skunt then, only other thing I could think of would be a dragging pad, but that should be obvious as well. I have had a brake hose swell on me at a crimped hose support (DOT4 fluid in an old DOT 3 system I reckoned) that caused the piston to hold on and not return, and a rear master cyl on a bike do similar.

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        • #5
          Yes, that was something I also checked. The discs are ventilated and are cool at the outside edges which would to my mind rule out dragging brake pads. Would you tend to agree that diffs get very hot normally and it would be logical that heat would conduct from the axle gears in the diff to the axles to the axle flanges. With ordinary pressed steel wheels the axle flanges won't be able to conduct the heat any further. Does this sound right to you?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Maurie View Post
            Yes, that was something I also checked. The discs are ventilated and are cool at the outside edges which would to my mind rule out dragging brake pads. Would you tend to agree that diffs get very hot normally and it would be logical that heat would conduct from the axle gears in the diff to the axles to the axle flanges. With ordinary pressed steel wheels the axle flanges won't be able to conduct the heat any further. Does this sound right to you?
            From memory my hubs get pretty warm, but this is after 100's of km running with a 2T van in tow, so the diff is getting a bit of a workout. What weight oil are you using in diff?

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            • #7
              Just to be sure maybe undo the diff fil plug. Check the level and see if it's nice and clear--- not blackened by over heating.

              Cheers
              Mike
              White 2010 gx diesel auto, bilstein shocks 50mm lift king springs, tjm steps, warn 9500, lt265-65-17 bfg atko on steel rims. Racor 230R10 filter
              Adelaide based

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