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  • Buying Ex Tow Vehicle

    Hi All,

    I am wondering what the cons are to buying a Prado that has been used for towing, and what I can do to check out the potential issues.

    I presume there would be more wear on the tyres/brakes/suspension which can be checked/replaced reasonably easily.

    I also presume there are added risks to the driveline, gearbox/transmission and engine (overheating etc). Is this something that can be easily assessed?

    Would you buy one that has clearly been used for towing (advertised with EBC and 'ready for touring' / 'we've just finished our lap' type ads).

    I guess it's hard to answer, but what sort of price reduction would you consider fair on a ~2006-2008 model that was used for towing? Ie. one that hasn't been used, say $20k and one that has been , say $15k?

    Anything else come to mind?

    Cheers
    Chris

  • #2
    It all depends on how it has been treated. For example, if you asked the seller how it went towing his 2.5T mobile block of flats all day, in November, across the Barkly, into a headwind, at 120kmh and he said "fine", you could be confident that it has had the s**t flogged out of it and run at max EGT/coolant temp for long periods. If he says that he tows at 80kmh and his EGT limit is 700C, his trans temp is 80c max and coolant temp limit 100c, then you could be a little more reassured that it has been cared for by someone who knows a little about how to operate a tug.
    The owner should be able to tell you about service intervals and what lubes are used etc.

    Comment


    • #3
      I would prefer to buy something that has had a bit of towing work and not just a shoping trolley that has spent its hole life idling around more likely the trolley will be neglected
      Arb colour code deluxe bar, safari snorkel, lightforce venom HID's, GME uhf remote face, redarc tow pro, redarc bcdc 1240, pioneer platform, 40" curved light bar, dual battery, 3" SS exhaust, EGR mod, trans cooler upgrade, provent catch can, scangauge 2, diesel care secondary fuel filter, Tin's bash plates and actuator gaurd, 2in Bilstien and kings lift,

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      • #4
        I suppose the good thing about a tourer is that it probably drove long drives, not lots of short drives. Personally, if they had an EGT monitor I would be less worried, but pretty sure most people don't put them on.

        Of course, people can say whatever they want it it can be all lies. I guess if there is not a way to check it on the vehicle, then it all comes down to trust.

        Comment


        • #5
          Another thing that is a deal killer for me is beach work, which is why I had to go to country Vic to get mine and drive it home. You can check by actually "tasting" the dust from inside the chassis rails, your tongue is extremely sensitive to salt so just a dab of dust can give you a clue. Country vehicles are usually good value if properly serviced.
          I would suggest just trolling through this site, there is plenty here on what to look for on all the models.

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          • #6
            Personally I would avoid the tongue test if the vehicle comes from cattle country.......but if you can talk a mate into doing it for you......
            1997 petrol auto, 430 000km. Still going strong.
            2004 petrol auto, 233 000km. Cracked dash and no help from Toyota!

            Comment


            • #7
              might be worth considering a new fuel pump if it was a v6, if its been towing it would have pumped out Sydney harbor several times over

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              • #8
                hadn't head of the tongue test! I'm curious now. haha

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                • #9
                  bump. anyone else have an opinion on this?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Too many variables to consider for a car that is 10+ year old. Main thing is regular maintenance (oil, coolant , transmission fluid etc) .Tyres and other consumables can be a giveaway on how car was treated. Mechanically sympathetic owner preferably with no panel repairs .Check the condition of the car carefully and test drive thoroughly - i prefer no heavy towing , hard off road use or lady owner use personally . Pay a bit more for a clean car , there are many to choose from.
                    Last edited by Sumodog; 19-07-2017, 12:16 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I sold my Kakadu because I bought an off road caravan that had a GVM of 2,400kg. I thought the Prado D-4D would have been outstretched with 2400kg on the back. Its limit is 2500kg and the motor would have been "stressed as" IMO.

                      So check the weight of the trailer. better yet - have a look at the trailer. It might tell you something about the driver.

                      If its a boat, check the weight of the boat and the trailer, and more imporantly, where did he take it? I would be fearful of a 4WD that had launched into a bay, because 4WDs that launch a trailer with a boat on the trailer, do get salt water around their rear axel, and it does get the underside wet due to waves, wheel movement, and going too far in. Even if the underside is washed down ... it would make me nervous. Maybe check underneath to find any rust spots in the rear. but if the owners has towed just down the street to launch a boat - that work is nothing at all.

                      I've seen Prados towing big vans with all sorts of junk on their rooves - I would not want to buy one of those either.

                      But a Prado that is well driven, and is towing something under 1700kg, then I'd imagine its a better unit than a shopping trolley. IMO a diesel likes work and starting a diesel, driving the kids to school, then parking the vehicle soon after - the diesel has never got up to temperature. That school drop off style of driving can push diesel fuel into the sump and dilute lubrication ... a tow vehicle would be better than that usage IMO.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        An idea to save money buying an older Prado - perhaps consider one around 2005 -2006 (when did the D-4D come?) Here's a dealership vehicle which would cost more than a private sale: https://www.toyota.com.au/used-cars/for-sale/209154

                        But its only 134k and it has the old diesel. I hated that diesel (from a far) because they put it in the 120 series from the 90 series, yet the 120 weighed a lot more than the 90. But ... that motor is fool proof, from everything I have read. People improve the turbo and get better performance, and still, nothing seems to go wrong (from what I have heard, and maybe I am ignorant). If you get a D-4D, then check when the injectors were done, and there seemed to be a correlation between D-4Ds going, and towing and also tuning chips. The older diesel seems to be foolproof and if its got enough juice to get your job done, it may offer a safer bet and better value?

                        Comment

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