New head day has arrived

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

It's been a while since I've done any serious work on the cars and I've been putting off swapping the head on the camping car for several weeks now. I'm a little daunted by doing this for this for the first time, but then so was I before I replaced the radiator & water pump, replaced the control arm & suspension bushes, swapped the steering rack, replaced the diff lock, fitted a snorkel, wired the solar & dual battery, fitted an intercooler & bonnet scoop, recon'd the injectors... This morning I've turned to the internet for some tips and courage, and found this HOW TO. Same thing really, seems easy... :lol:

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Me too.

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

Me too.

Snap!

What did you do with the aircon compressor? Did you move it or remove it?

Also, I can't remember what I did with the transmission cooler lines when I changed the rad last time - did you just drain the ATF and then disconnect the lines?

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

New head day might become new head month...

Before:



Now:



I was hoping that I might not have to replace the rad but looking at the rad cap and top of the rad it is clear that it got very hot and the plastic at the rad filler seems to have suffered. I cleaned it up a bit but the plastic has changed and feels slightly grainy around the inside lip (where it should seal).

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

For a long time I've been curious about a pair of odd sensor looking things at the back of the engine bay. Can anyone shed some light on what these are (there are 2)? I think it has something to do with the EGR.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Batteries, air filter box, intercooler, belts off, fan/radiator etc all out.
Aircon compressor I unbolted from its mounting bracket, (4-long bolts) and then tie it clear. Next unbolt the actual bracket from the head as there's some bolts behind the compressor, much easier to see once compressor is gone.
Transmission cooler, a piece of bent ⅜" copper tube looping hose to hose and by-passing the radiator does the job.
Turbo: The dump is a real bugger to remove. I've got an aftermarket 3" system so it's even more challenging. Remove the front pipe too as for sure you'll drop something down there. I removed the front wheels and those plastic body to chassis trims so access to the turbo oil banjo, support bracket etc is better. Turbo and manifold come off as a unit and once that's out you can drop the car down to a better working height. Plug the oil feed and drain hole with rags.
Injector lines and inlet manifold are heaps easier to remove with oil filter gone. Plug all that area with rag. (Suggest you screw the filter back on)
There's one steel heater pipe running from the left side across the rear and up to the rubber heater hoses. Unbolt it, one support bolt is right behind the head!! There's also a multi earth point in a similar spot, hard to get at bolts.
Cambelt cover, belt, tensioner etc all off. I always rotate the crank off TDC so there's no chance of valves hitting pistons should the cam accidentally move while the centre nut is coming off. Easy to re-time her during assembly.
Cam cover off then hold the cam with large shifter and remove cam centre bolt. 2-jaw puller needed to remove the cam pulley, catch the woodruff key. Now you can remove the alloy seal housing. A few bolts and she's also sealed to the head.
You could remove the injectors and glow plugs now too.
Think that's the main bits, the more you remove the easier it is to see the actual engine.
Head studs out and head off, it's heavier than you'd expect.
Then it's clean everything up and Bankcard time.
Probably see you at SMS ??

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

For a long time I've been curious about a pair of odd sensor looking things at the back of the engine bay. Can anyone shed some light on what these are (there are 2)? I think it has something to do with the EGR.

Vacuum switching valves, and yes they probably are for your egr

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

Batteries, air filter box, intercooler, belts off, fan/radiator etc all out.
Aircon compressor I unbolted from its mounting bracket, (4-long bolts) and then tie it clear. Next unbolt the actual bracket from the head as there's some bolts behind the compressor, much easier to see once compressor is gone.
Transmission cooler, a piece of bent ⅜" copper tube looping hose to hose and by-passing the radiator does the job.
Turbo: The dump is a real bugger to remove. I've got an aftermarket 3" system so it's even more challenging. Remove the front pipe too as for sure you'll drop something down there. I removed the front wheels and those plastic body to chassis trims so access to the turbo oil banjo, support bracket etc is better. Turbo and manifold come off as a unit and once that's out you can drop the car down to a better working height. Plug the oil feed and drain hole with rags.
Injector lines and inlet manifold are heaps easier to remove with oil filter gone. Plug all that area with rag. (Suggest you screw the filter back on)
There's one steel heater pipe running from the left side across the rear and up to the rubber heater hoses. Unbolt it, one support bolt is right behind the head!! There's also a multi earth point in a similar spot, hard to get at bolts.
Cambelt cover, belt, tensioner etc all off. I always rotate the crank off TDC so there's no chance of valves hitting pistons should the cam accidentally move while the centre nut is coming off. Easy to re-time her during assembly.
Cam cover off then hold the cam with large shifter and remove cam centre bolt. 2-jaw puller needed to remove the cam pulley, catch the woodruff key. Now you can remove the alloy seal housing. A few bolts and she's also sealed to the head.
You could remove the injectors and glow plugs now too.
Think that's the main bits, the more you remove the easier it is to see the actual engine.
Head studs out and head off, it's heavier than you'd expect.
Then it's clean everything up and Bankcard time.
Probably see you at SMS ??

Cheers, this is exactly the sort of tips that make the job a lot easier.

I picked up my new head at SMS a few weeks ago. They did a good deal on complete new head with new water pump and timing kit for around $1900.

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

Vacuum switching valves, and yes they probably are for your egr

Thanks. I would like to junk the whole lot if I can. I've blocked the hoses and it just gets in the way.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

From the radiator cap photo, looks like you got coolant in the oil. Difficult to get all that clear, will take a few oil and filter changes. Suggest you give her some cheap stuff first, quick run, chuck it and then start with your normal oils. Filters are expensive on these old jiggers but the Toyota filter at around $29 is light years ahead of the Ryco for similar $$. I'll be fitting my last Ryco when I re-start and flush, genuine from then on.

[Brett1979 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Brett1979]

Look up genuine Toyota oil filters on EBay. You should find them reasonably priced for single units incl delivery and definitely a few dollars cheaper than Ryco filters from your local stores.

They're on par in price as the cheap Cooper oil filters from Auto Barn.
I got a Z418 equivalent gen Toyota filter for my 3.4L for $15 recently. Wish I bought them from EBay years ago. Even cheaper if bought in bulk. Had the Japanese writing on the filter as well and everything.

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Had the Japanese writing on the filter as well and everything.

Well that proves they're genuine then...

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Look up genuine Toyota oil filters on EBay. You should find them reasonably priced for single units incl delivery and definitely a few dollars cheaper than Ryco filters from your local stores.

They're on par in price as the cheap Cooper oil filters from Auto Barn.
I got a Z418 equivalent gen Toyota filter for my 3.4L for $15 recently.

The diesel's Ryco filter is around the $30 mark from all the usuals, Bursons, Supercheap, Autobahn etc.
I searched and found genuine name filter suppliers can match or do better.
Now she's got oil pressure almost instantly on first start, Ryco would take 4-5 seconds.
Ryco in the Mr's car has the hydraulic lifters rattling away on first start whereas genuine is silent.
Been a Ryco user for almost 50 years, they've altered something and so have lost my business.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Well that proves they're genuine then...

Nope, cutting them open proves that they are genuine, or at least an absolute clone! Cut open one from every batch (after use, obviously) to check they are still genuine.
cheers
Steve

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Nope, cutting them open proves that they are genuine, or at least an absolute clone! Cut open one from every batch (after use, obviously) to check they are still genuine.
cheers
Steve

Go buy a genuine toyota filter from your local dealer, cut it and one of the ebay one's open before use and tell us all they are identical in every way then I might believe they are the real deal.

Not having a go at you Steve