New head day has arrived

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Go buy a genuine toyota filter from your local dealer, cut it and one of the ebay one's open before use and tell us all they are identical in every way then I might believe they are the real deal.
)

I did...... and they were......
Not recently because I have not finished the box of 90915-300028T. The -8T suffix only indicates made in Thailand. I suspect they hung them on the Hiluxes that they made there.
The -8T actually seemed to have denser bypass filter material too.

[Brett1979 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Brett1979]

If it matters so much to you Adrian why don't you buy and cut the filters open and tell us if they are or not after your little experiment? We don't really mind either way what you do but it'll put your mind at ease by the sounds of it. I had a mate a few years ago cut open a new Ryco and a gen Toyota filter and they were exactly the same inside.

Mine had the gen Toyota packaging and looked exactly the same externally as a gen Toyota filter. Last I checked it was kind of illegal to rip off another company's product so I'm sure it would've been reported long ago and Toyota would've done something about it if it was someone else's cheap dodgy knock-off because I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate that going on. Not having a go at you Adrian.

Oh and sorry about NSW in origin over the last 10 years. My condolences.

[Brett1979 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Brett1979]

The diesel's Ryco filter is around the $30 mark from all the usuals, Bursons, Supercheap, Autobahn etc.
I searched and found genuine name filter suppliers can match or do better.
Now she's got oil pressure almost instantly on first start, Ryco would take 4-5 seconds.
Ryco in the Mr's car has the hydraulic lifters rattling away on first start whereas genuine is silent.
Been a Ryco user for almost 50 years, they've altered something and so have lost my business.

Yeah the eBay Toyota filters for yours are also $29-$30.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Hey Fridayman, go through the gasket set supplied by SMS before you start.
I was missing copper washers for the turbo oil supply banjo, no gasket for the turbo oil drain and no gasket for the coolant pipe that runs from the left side of the head across the rear and up to the cabin heater.
Luckily I had stock but just a heads up for you.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Something else to consider. I think the exhaust manifold/turbo could stay in position, just loosen the bottom stay. There's Torx studs on the exhaust manifold so you could remove them, pull out the old gasket and then there's enough room to remove the head, clean the block etc.
I didn't give it enough thought at the time but you'd be saving hours, not to mention the frustration trying to fit the copper washers on that oil feed banjo, impossible access to the dump studs and so on.
Kicking myself now.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Something else to consider. I think the exhaust manifold/turbo could stay in position, just loosen the bottom stay. There's Torx studs on the exhaust manifold so you could remove them, pull out the old gasket and then there's enough room to remove the head, clean the block etc.
I didn't give it enough thought at the time but you'd be saving hours, not to mention the frustration trying to fit the copper washers on that oil feed banjo, impossible access to the dump studs and so on.
Kicking myself now.

Thanks Carco, you just reminded me of something!
There are a couple of bolts on the exhaust manifold IIRC, bolts into aluminium cylinder heads are never a good idea. Steel bolts under tension have a tendency to pull threads in alloy. I replaced all the studs (and the bolted holes) with steel exhaust studs and brass nuts (or were they stainless nuts? Can't remember). This method transfers the tension from the head to the stud itself and almost removes the chance of stripping the head out or bolts/nuts rusting up seized. If memory serves they were VL Commodore studs, M10x1.25mm with washers and nuts to suit. Maybe considered overkill by some, but a job worth doing...........
cheers
Steve

edited: carco is right, they probably are M10.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Yes mine had bolts on the bottom holes of cylinder 2 and 3.
Presumed someone had been there before and had lost the studs, didn't realise that was factory??
Mine has all studs now. (M10x 1.25)

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

Hey Fridayman, go through the gasket set supplied by SMS before you start.
I was missing copper washers for the turbo oil supply banjo, no gasket for the turbo oil drain and no gasket for the coolant pipe that runs from the left side of the head across the rear and up to the cabin heater.
Luckily I had stock but just a heads up for you.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll see what they gave me. I didn't make much progress last week but will get stuck in again tomorrow/Sunday.

I've been wondering whether to pull the manifold with the head and decided that I'll wait and see how much trouble I have with the studs. I've been soaking them with WD40 but I'm not sure how much that will help with these. I might need to buy some new torx sockets - the ones that I have is 1/4" in the stud size (they start at 1/2" in the larger sizes and then get smaller).
Interesting about replacing the studs, I think I might do this while I'm in there.

Question: Why are studs used on the manifold instead of bolts?

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Mate, can't see you lifting the head and manifold together, not unless you remove the turbo first and that all sounds too difficult. The oil feed banjo is hidden behind the dump, can't even see/feel it with the dump on.
But the more I think about it I reckon you could leave the whole exhaust manifold and turbo alone, just loosen the support stay at the bottom to allow some movement.
Remove the Torx headed exhaust manifold studs, the gasket is a multi layered metal job so it will come away cleanly. I think you'll be surprised how easily the studs come out of the alloy head. I had some come out of the head in preference to undoing their self locking nut.
The effort saved in not removing any of that hot side is huge and well worth consideration.
There's more than enough crap to remove on the inlet side.
Don't forget to test your glow plugs while they're out. I found one not working, maybe they don't like coolant leaking onto them?

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Question: Why are studs used on the manifold instead of bolts?

As you wind a bolt into anything you are putting the threads under stress in two directions, winding the thread of the bolt down the helical ramp while all the time increasing the force on one side of the thread. You are trying to overcome the friction of the threads working against each other (and the alloy just loves to pick up and gall) as the tension of the increasing clamping force rises. Something will eventually give and it will be the alloy head. By using a stud you don't have to overcome the thread friction in the alloy, once the stud is set then you only have the pull of the clamping and not the turning friction of the thread as well. The alloy doesn't get the chance to pick up on the steel threaded bolt, the only friction is nut on stud; steel on steel.
Engineers don't pick apart my explanation, I may not explain it very well but I know how it works! ;-)

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

As you wind a bolt into anything you are putting the threads under stress in two directions, winding the thread of the bolt down the helical ramp while all the time increasing the force on one side of the thread. You are trying to overcome the friction of the threads working against each other (and the alloy just loves to pick up and gall) as the tension of the increasing clamping force rises. Something will eventually give and it will be the alloy head. By using a stud you don't have to overcome the thread friction in the alloy, once the stud is set then you only have the pull of the clamping and not the turning friction of the thread as well. The alloy doesn't get the chance to pick up on the steel threaded bolt, the only friction is nut on stud; steel on steel.
Engineers don't pick apart my explanation, I may not explain it very well but I know how it works!

Got it, thanks

[fridayman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close fridayman]

Mate, can't see you lifting the head and manifold together, not unless you remove the turbo first and that all sounds too difficult. The oil feed banjo is hidden behind the dump, can't even see/feel it with the dump on.
But the more I think about it I reckon you could leave the whole exhaust manifold and turbo alone, just loosen the support stay at the bottom to allow some movement.
Remove the Torx headed exhaust manifold studs, the gasket is a multi layered metal job so it will come away cleanly. I think you'll be surprised how easily the studs come out of the alloy head. I had some come out of the head in preference to undoing their self locking nut.
The effort saved in not removing any of that hot side is huge and well worth consideration.
There's more than enough crap to remove on the inlet side.
Don't forget to test your glow plugs while they're out. I found one not working, maybe they don't like coolant leaking onto them?

It does sound easier. Do you think there might be any drama with the gasket in this position when reassembling or will the studs hold it in the correct position?

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Should be no problem to reassemble. Just keep the manifold slightly clear, check orientation and slip the gasket in. Finger tight one stud each end to hold it and she's sitting pretty. Install the remainder, torque them up then the manifold nuts and away you go.
Time saved would be huge not to mention the blood saving.
This morning I have to drop the front pipe just to access the bottom bolt holding the auto's dip stick. Thought it would be easier from below at the time……
Just another job that didn't have to be done if the hot stuff had stayed untouched.