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  • Brake Bleeding issues!

    Hi All,

    I am having issues with the 120 Series Brakes. I replaced the front pads, and now have a sinking pedal... I've bled the brake system upteen dozens of times and am getting no improvement. Any suggestions??

    I've also used a vacuum brake bleeder and seem to be getting air coming through the line, but after using three bottles of brake fluid one would think they'd be bled enough to clear the system of any air.... apparently not!

    Help and Suggestions appreciated!

    Cheers
    Mick015

  • #2
    Is the pedal sinking all the way to the floor? If it is I'd say the master cylinder is shot. If it's just a real spongy pedal feel, give it a couple of days of driving. It's just the pads bedding in, should get better after a few drive cycles.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by sunny120 View Post
      Is the pedal sinking all the way to the floor? If it is I'd say the master cylinder is shot. If it's just a real spongy pedal feel, give it a couple of days of driving. It's just the pads bedding in, should get better after a few drive cycles.
      nah its sinking to the floor... like theres air in the system. But I've bled them SO much.... I don't see how there can be air in there... but there is..

      Comment


      • #4
        Was your ignition on during bleeding?
        Are you using dot 3 or 4 fluid?

        Comment


        • #5
          How do you normally carry out the bleed process and is it done solo or with a 2nd pair of hands? Or did this just simply happen from only removing some fluid from the resevoir, compressing the brake pistons and replacing brake pads without an actual bleed taking place?

          I've never gotten air in the system myself or had the spongy pedal or pedal to the floor issue but just trying to give someone else here who can help, an idea of what may have happened or gone wrong.
          2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Brett1979 View Post
            How do you normally carry out the bleed process and is it done solo or with a 2nd pair of hands? Or did this just simply happen from only removing some fluid from the resevoir, compressing the brake pistons and replacing brake pads without an actual bleed taking place?

            I've never gotten air in the system myself or had the spongy pedal or pedal to the floor issue but just trying to give someone else here who can help, an idea of what may have happened or gone wrong.
            I've been doing it this same way for 25 years... never once had this problem. I had used a vacuum sucker and also used a second person to do the pump up and hold down of the peddle.
            this almost got me to admit defeat!

            Eventually, after about 4 bottles of brake fluid and triple checking everything they came good, been driving the car around all week with no issues, and no pedal fade!

            Thanks for the comments and tips!
            Mick015

            Comment


            • #7
              Did you have your ignition on? Are you using dot3 or 4 fluid?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Piggy View Post
                Did you have your ignition on? Are you using dot3 or 4 fluid?
                What's the significance Piggy? I'm looking at fitting new bendix pads and replacing fluid next weekend if time permits. Have already got pads and 2 x 500ml dot 3 fluid.
                1997 petrol auto, 430 000km. Still going strong.
                2004 petrol auto, 233 000km. Cracked dash and no help from Toyota!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bleeding on these vehicles should be done with ignition on. Abs pump will run and stop issues with air in system. It also forces fluid thru making it a lot easier.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    To clarify a bit further VX and Grande with the "Accumulator type" ABS/Traction control (no normal type vacuum brake booster) require at the minimum the ignition on to bleed or even pump up the brakes after a pad change. Why? so the electric motor that is part of the unit will keep cycling and keep the pressure up. Ideally it should be done with a scan tool but most of you probably don't have one with that function available to you.Only use Dot 3 in these

                    Models such as GXL with a vacuum brake booster and conventional bosch ABS (separate unit) bleed as normal. Again Dot3 should be used

                    If in doubt of what fluid is to be used? Well it's written on the cap of the master cylinder.

                    My source here is myself as I'm a mechanic by trade and run a specialist brake workshop

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 4thsurf View Post
                      To clarify a bit further VX and Grande with the "Accumulator type" ABS/Traction control (no normal type vacuum brake booster) require at the minimum the ignition on to bleed or even pump up the brakes after a pad change. Why? so the electric motor that is part of the unit will keep cycling and keep the pressure up. Ideally it should be done with a scan tool but most of you probably don't have one with that function available to you.Only use Dot 3 in these

                      Models such as GXL with a vacuum brake booster and conventional bosch ABS (separate unit) bleed as normal. Again Dot3 should be used

                      If in doubt of what fluid is to be used? Well it's written on the cap of the master cylinder.

                      My source here is myself as I'm a mechanic by trade and run a specialist brake workshop
                      Good tips! Cheers!
                      Mick015

                      Comment

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