Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Problem with rear Prado 120 tie down anchor

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Problem with rear Prado 120 tie down anchor

    Hi guys,
    I'm hoping you guys can come up with some viable alternatives to a problem I'm having regarding the above. I'm trying to switch the Toyota tie down point to a proper rated recovery anchor. The problem is that on trying to remove the Toyota point it appears that one of the welded nuts inside the chassis member to which the tie down bolts attach has sheared off. No problem I guess, I can cut through the bolt, tedious as it will be. However, in order to now attach the proper rated recovery hook I will need access inside the chassis member, firstly to retrieve the broken nut and secondly to line up the new nut with which the new rated anchor hook needs to bolt on to. The only way around this I can see is one of the following:
    1. Forget the rated anchor point and use some sort of rated sling around this same point on the chassis for snatching? Don't know if such a thing exists? Or possibly feeding the end of the snatch strap around the chassis and back through itself?
    2. Cut a small side window to allow access to the inside of chassis member to retrieve broken nut and fix new one. Would this weaken the chassis member or create a potential corrosion site? If I were to reweld the cut window back again would that resolve both of these concerns?
    3. Forget this side and use the bolt holes on the other side to attach the rated recovery anchor. The trouble with this is that the exhaust pipe would be in the way and have to be rerouted.
    Some people might suggest just using a hitch receiver anchor (which I already have), however, I wish to be able to do a recovery with my camper trailer still attached (ie running the snatch strap under the trailer)
    I have attached a photo of the recalcitrant Toyota tie down point so you can see what I'm talking about.
    Any useful suggestions appreciated...
    Cheers
    Bryan
    Attached Files
    02/07 Prado GXL D4D 6 sp manual bought Oct 2009 with 43k on the clock. ARB bullbar and Redarc dual battery system, safari snorkel, 2" OME lift, front ARB air locker, Cooper Discover S/T Maxx LT265/70R17s, 17" black CSA steelies, GME TX3520 80 ch UHF, Dept of Interior rear roller drawers, full length Rhino-Rack and Sunseeker side awning.

  • #2
    Can you drill out the broken bolt and run a tap through it to re-cut the thread?

    Comment


    • #3
      Is there access to the top of the chassis rail? Can drill right through the chassis and use long bolts coming up from the bottom with nuts?
      Last edited by LCP; 28-06-2017, 04:55 PM. Reason: typo

      Comment


      • #4
        Just trying to imagine getting snatched out rearwards with a camper attached. Hmm...

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by amts View Post
          Just trying to imagine getting snatched out rearwards with a camper attached. Hmm...
          No, I wouldn't be doing that! I was recently in a situation on a very narrow track where I had to retrieve a bogged vehicle behind me. There was no room to remove the trailer. Fortunately, I was able to ease him out gently using the Toyota anchor without having to snatch him.
          02/07 Prado GXL D4D 6 sp manual bought Oct 2009 with 43k on the clock. ARB bullbar and Redarc dual battery system, safari snorkel, 2" OME lift, front ARB air locker, Cooper Discover S/T Maxx LT265/70R17s, 17" black CSA steelies, GME TX3520 80 ch UHF, Dept of Interior rear roller drawers, full length Rhino-Rack and Sunseeker side awning.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by LCP View Post
            Is there access to the top of the chassis rail? Can drill right through the chassis and use long bolts coming up from the bottom with nuts?
            Yeah I wondered about that. Possibly could do but I think I would have to move stuff attached on top of the chassis. And it still involves cutting another hole in the chassis member and leaving the broken nut inside? Would not this disturb whatever anticorrosion protection they use on the chassis?
            02/07 Prado GXL D4D 6 sp manual bought Oct 2009 with 43k on the clock. ARB bullbar and Redarc dual battery system, safari snorkel, 2" OME lift, front ARB air locker, Cooper Discover S/T Maxx LT265/70R17s, 17" black CSA steelies, GME TX3520 80 ch UHF, Dept of Interior rear roller drawers, full length Rhino-Rack and Sunseeker side awning.

            Comment


            • #7
              Have a look for some access holes along the chassis to fish out the nut. Usually they are rectangular holes.

              Then for the new nut weld a nut to a plate with a tail and feed it in a nearby or same exit hole. Hopefully there is a hole nearby.

              Comment

              canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
              mencisport.com
              antalya escort
              tsyd.org deneme bonusu veren siteler
              deneme bonusu veren siteler
              gaziantep escort
              gaziantep escort
              asyabahis maltcasino olabahis olabahis
              erotik film izle Rus escort gaziantep rus escort
              atasehir escort tuzla escort
              sikis sex hatti
              en iyi casino siteleri
              deneme bonusu veren siteler
              casibom
              deneme bonusu veren siteler
              deneme bonusu veren siteler
              betticket istanbulbahis
              Working...
              X