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  • High beam brightness?

    Hi, I recently installed a set of globes into my dad's GXL 120, that claim to be 120% brighter than OEM ones. However we noticed a marginal difference in low beams, and they seemed to be worse at high beams, almost unuseable. We believe that the lights aren't receiving enough current to power them, although we have not tested this. If anyone has had the same problem and has a solution or can name the problem that would be greatly appreciated.
    Cheers
    Cameron

  • #2
    A few months ago i added a set of Philips X-treme Vision +130% brighter (so they claim) and also noticed the increase in light output was marginal at best. However the high beam wasnt worse, it just wasnt a lot better.

    Are you sure the globes are seated correctly and the retaining clip is back in right? Also have you tried parking close to a wall and adjusting them?
    2007 120 GXL D4D 6sp Man - My Rig https://www.pradopoint.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24945&d=1487341201

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    • #3
      Originally posted by LowRange View Post
      A few months ago i added a set of Philips X-treme Vision +130% brighter (so they claim) and also noticed the increase in light output was marginal at best. However the high beam wasnt worse, it just wasnt a lot better.

      Are you sure the globes are seated correctly and the retaining clip is back in right? Also have you tried parking close to a wall and adjusting them?
      Strange - I use Philips X-treme Vision in both of my cars and have seen a significant increase in brightness. I checked when putting them in - left one light with the standard globe and the other with the X-treme vision globe and the latter was much brighter.

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      • #4
        I also did the same and noticed a big difference from the OEM. A much brighter light and further distance up the road.

        Only issue I had was they didn't seem to last long and went through about 3-4 globes in 12 months. We did a fair bit dirt driving during this time (Perth to Cairns via GCR) but nothing extreme. Can be changed but when that spring clip drops out I had to remove the battery to get full access.

        I have since switched back to the original OEM globes for past 12 months and no issues. Its really a compromise, not sure how the others are finding how long the upgraded globes last for them.
        2009 GXL D4D - Auto

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        • #5
          Have to agree, that "spring/clip" can be a S.O.B. when you just want to quickly change the globes without removing your battery or batteries as the case may be.
          I was guided away from installing the 120-130+ globes as advised that the can be too fragile for off road use.
          Others may claim no issues.
          foxclan
          Avid PP Poster!
          Last edited by foxclan; 13-07-2017, 07:16 PM.
          SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
          2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
          LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by foxclan View Post
            Have to agree, that "spring/clip" can be a S.O.B. when you judt want to quickly change the globes without removing you battery or batteries as the case may be.
            I was guided away from installing the 120-130+ globes as advised that the can be too fragile for off road use.
            Others may claim no issues.
            +120 user here and no issues off road after 2 years. I gained a reasonable increase in brightness on both low and high. I then changed the wiring to receive power directly through a relay from the battery and gained over 2volts at the headlights... the brightness increase then was HOOOOOOOGE! Lol

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            • #7
              Originally posted by RanJ View Post
              +120 user here and no issues off road after 2 years. I gained a reasonable increase in brightness on both low and high. I then changed the wiring to receive power directly through a relay from the battery and gained over 2volts at the headlights... the brightness increase then was HOOOOOOOGE! Lol
              There you go, real time field testing thanks for sharing RanJ.
              Hey speaking of sharing Lol... Can you please "Enlighten" us to your method of upgrading your headlight wiring.
              unless you already have in your build up thread, which I'am searching Now.
              Cheers
              Troy
              SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
              2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
              LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

              Comment


              • #8
                First off, I did this in my 90.. not a 120 but the process is the same, I just don't know if you'll see the same level of benefits that I did in the 90.

                Here's my reasoning behind my madness.

                The flow of electricity to the headlights in a 90 starts at the battery, flows through the fuses and relays, heads down to the bulb, through the bulb, into the cabin, up the steering column through the switch, back down the column, through an earth juntion block and then onto the chassis earth. This is all done through wiring that is questionable on size.

                I'm not sure why Toyota did it this way... was it to simplify the circuit? To make a safer circuit in case of accident? (the long lengths of wiring are all earthed so no danger if crushed) Not sure, but if you wanted to simplify the circuit, then the safest way would be to negatively switch the headlights because of the long runs, but with that said, the wiring size leaves a lot to be desired.

                So, with two fuse holders (I actually have a secondary fuse block in my engine bay that I ran these through.
                two 40A relays
                A few metres of three different coloured 5mm wire
                Two replacement H4 Bulb sockets
                Two load resistors (explain later)

                I set about rewiring the headlights. I mounted my two relays in front of the battery. I placed a replacement socket at each headlight and set about the rewire... For ease sake I'll explain my wire colours. I used black for my earth terminals, red for low beam and yellow for high beam.

                I ran from the battery and through the fuse holders a red and white 5mm wire. Red went to pin 30 of one relay, and the yellow to pin 30 of the other relay. Red pin 87 went to both light sockets and Yellow pin 87 went to both light sockets also. Each socket was grounded very securely, close to the headlight locations.

                So thats the power side of things taken care of, time to pay attention to the switching side of things. From the original headlight socket near the battery, take the common pin and split it into two. Take these to pin 86 on BOTH relays. Now split the high beam signal to pin 85 on the yellow relay and the low beam signal to pin 85 on the low beam relay.

                Whack a 15A fuse in either fuse holder and you're done... almost!

                The lights now function perfectly except for one small problem... the high beam indicator doesn't work on the dash board! This is because the previous system used a bulb as a pull up resistor to drive that blue indicator. So to solve this issue, I grabbed a pair of load resistors and joined them together to form a "Y" The two ends joined together get inserted into the common terminal on to the old headlight socket and the other two ends go into high and low individually... you more than likely could use a much higher resistance/lower wattage resistor and be just fine also. I just used what I had.

                Hope that helps.

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