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Do I really need a DC/DC Charger?

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  • Do I really need a DC/DC Charger?

    Hi guys, I have a 2006 V6 Grande.
    I need to get power to my 80ltr Engel Fridge/Freezer.
    I don't really want to fit a battery to the front of my engine bay, so was going to get a Battery box, with an AGM 100ah battery.
    I have read soooo much about needing and then not needing a DC/DC charger to do this. In fact so much either way, I am now totally confused.
    Has anyone else got a similar setup?
    Can I charge the battery via an isolator or will the alternator not produce enough power to the second battery?
    I really don't want to be spending heaps of money to do all this, as we don't use it a huge amount of time. Its cost me enough for the fridge and slide as it is.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Tony
    '06 Grande V6 Pearl White - Factory Alloy Bar
    Fyrlyt Driving Lights - GME UHF
    Electric Brake controller - Anderson plug
    Cooper AT3's
    Towing Tracktrailer Tvan

  • #2
    Id go with no

    A redarc SBI12 isolator is fine.

    I don't have one and run a 60l Engel just fine in the back of the car. I do however have a dc/dc in the caravan because it's a long way from the alternator

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    • #3
      As with Starbuck above. BUT from my experience with the same setup as you go with Heavy cables. Someone on here will say which ones. 4 or 6 gauge??

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Starbuck and 404pug, that puts my mind at rest. I will get an isolator then. I will run that 6B&S cable to the back with it fused as well then.
        I also have a 150W solar panel that I can expand to 250W if needed, so that should help out when I'm not travelling.
        This glamping is adding up!
        I appreciate your input, thanks.
        '06 Grande V6 Pearl White - Factory Alloy Bar
        Fyrlyt Driving Lights - GME UHF
        Electric Brake controller - Anderson plug
        Cooper AT3's
        Towing Tracktrailer Tvan

        Comment


        • #5
          Well now that you mention the solar panels... a DCDC charger could be extremely beneficial if you select one with a solar input.

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          • #6
            Plenty of cheaper isolators than SBI12, eg Kickass VSR for $44....
            Agree, don't bother with a DCDC. Put your solar panels on the start battery and charge both.
            [SIZE=1]2010 150 GXL Ebony Diesel | ARB Delux Bar | ARB Bashplates | GME 3450 UHF | Bilstein/Dobinson lift | SA LED Lighting 185W Spotties | Bridgestone D697LT | Wet Seat covers | LeighW's Voltage booster | Tin75 Pet barrier | 3D Mats'n'boot protector | Onboard ARB CKMA12 Compressor | Rhino Pioneer Platform | Roadsafe Recovery Points | Airtec Snorkel[/SIZE]

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            • #7
              If you say you don't use it that much then there is a far simpler solution. You can have the rear power socket made to work permanently independent of the ignition key. Simply plug the fridge into the standard rear 120 watt/10 amp outlet. I did this for over 12 months on my first Prado without any hassles. The fridge will only draw around 4 amps, maybe 5 if it's warm weather and you can turn the frdige right down at night time. Sometimes I had to run the car a couple of times during the day to charge the single battery. The fridge (Engel) never drained the main battery to the point that the car wouldn't start. Eventually, the need for 2 fridges meant an aux battery was required in my case.You have solar so that will supply a small trickle charge to help top your battery up. Obviously, if you decide on going further and longer on your trips then a dual battery with isolator is the way to go.
              Dave
              Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
              Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

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              • #8
                Ok guys, thanks so much for all of your input. After much thought and informative input, I think an isolator will be the go. I will put my 150W solar panels on the roof, with the MPPT regulator to the 2nd battery attached full time.
                A Kickass 120AH battery and box just behind the passenger seat with 6B&S cables from the main battery with Isolator in between should work. If anyone see's a problem with this setup, please let me know.
                So thanks again.
                '06 Grande V6 Pearl White - Factory Alloy Bar
                Fyrlyt Driving Lights - GME UHF
                Electric Brake controller - Anderson plug
                Cooper AT3's
                Towing Tracktrailer Tvan

                Comment


                • #9
                  I would strongly recommend that you secure the battery. It's not pretty what can happen with unsecured heavy items and especially batteries in the event of an accident or sudden braking / evasive maneuvers
                  [B]Steve[/B]

                  2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi, I have been running a similar setup for nearly the last 3 years. 2nd battery 130AH is secured in my rear draw setup and I have a VSR cant remember the brand. I then have a Victron MPPT regulator and 2 x 125W solar panels wired in series (24V) permanently mounted on a Pioneer platform. I bought panels that were basically square 800 x 800 joined them with stainless piano hinge, so I can fold the rear one over the front panel and I get a metre of rack back for those trips where space is a premium.
                    I run 1x60l Evakool mostly and for longer stays I have a 40l Engel. So far never had any power issues. So cant see why your setup would not work.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I guess it all depends. I've got the SBI12 instaled (came installed).

                      Because I got 4WD Supacenter solar panels that have a controller on them, I've put an Anderson plug on my 2nd battery so that it can connect, and I can close the bonnet.

                      The same panels keep the camper's battery charged as well.
                      [FONT=Century Gothic][B][SIZE=4][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?36057-Ryback-s-Flinders-Red-120"][COLOR="#B22222"]'04 120 Petrol Flinders Red GXL[/URL][/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]
                      with ARB Catalog, with TJM add ons!

                      [CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]

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                      • #12
                        I wouldn't bother.

                        For a few years i only had just a All Rounder 105a/h under the bonnet, run fridge,lights for overnighters/weekends.

                        last year i purchased a battery box and agm 130a/h just in case of bad weather for solar.

                        kept it simple with a anderson to plug into fridge if i need it and solar panel,

                        Just charge it when i get home if needed, doesn't stay in rig all the time.
                        Follow The Zuttas OZ ADVENTURE on FB...[url]https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Zuttas-OZ-Adventure/439583419452033?ref=hl[/url]

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                        • #13
                          Re. tying the battery down behind the seat. Get hold of 1 or 2 old [or new] lap seatbelts and attach them to front of rear seat mounts and /or to rear seat belt mounts - strong and secure.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rogjil View Post
                            Hi, I have been running a similar setup for nearly the last 3 years. 2nd battery 130AH is secured in my rear draw setup and I have a VSR cant remember the brand. I then have a Victron MPPT regulator and 2 x 125W solar panels wired in series (24V) permanently mounted on a Pioneer platform. I bought panels that were basically square 800 x 800 joined them with stainless piano hinge, so I can fold the rear one over the front panel and I get a metre of rack back for those trips where space is a premium.
                            I run 1x60l Evakool mostly and for longer stays I have a 40l Engel. So far never had any power issues. So cant see why your setup would not work.
                            That's very re-assuring. Power has been a big issue for me for a long time, so this seems like the solution.
                            I will definitely be tying down the battery by the way, that's already sorted.
                            Thanks everyone for your generous help.
                            '06 Grande V6 Pearl White - Factory Alloy Bar
                            Fyrlyt Driving Lights - GME UHF
                            Electric Brake controller - Anderson plug
                            Cooper AT3's
                            Towing Tracktrailer Tvan

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              ..
                              Last edited by TCT888; 31-07-2017, 08:45 PM.

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