Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Alternator Booster Diode

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Alternator Booster Diode

    I have been have flat batteries of late , check charging rates and when cold I get 13.7v and when warm 13.5v , because I am only doing short runs at the moment, I never can get enough charge,
    I pulled out the alt fuse and replace it with a alternator booster diode from ARB Sidewinder
    what a difference it made, now charging at 14.4v cold and 14.1v hot ,fantastic, it now starts very well
    There is no side effects , I have been using it for about 3 weeks now, I have done a couple 100k runs and all good now, just running back and fro from my local and no more battery problems , love it
    ps i have been checking with Fluke meter not a cheapy....
    Last edited by bobsa; 17-08-2017, 07:57 PM.

  • #2
    Not sure the boosting diode will help that much if you keep doing short runs, it's not really putting any more amps in. I was the same, so I put a solar panel on the roof.
    [SIZE=1]2010 150 GXL Ebony Diesel | ARB Delux Bar | ARB Bashplates | GME 3450 UHF | Bilstein/Dobinson lift | SA LED Lighting 185W Spotties | Bridgestone D697LT | Wet Seat covers | LeighW's Voltage booster | Tin75 Pet barrier | 3D Mats'n'boot protector | Onboard ARB CKMA12 Compressor | Rhino Pioneer Platform | Roadsafe Recovery Points | Airtec Snorkel[/SIZE]

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by SimpleSi View Post
      Not sure the boosting diode will help that much if you keep doing short runs, it's not really putting any more amps in. I was the same, so I put a solar panel on the roof.
      V=IR -> The R (Battery Resistance) is constant, so increasing V (Voltage), will increase I (Current).
      Richard
      2011 GXL TD Auto Prado Silver

      Comment


      • #4
        Bobsa, have you got a 3L or 2.8L 150series?

        Will.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by StormyKnight View Post
          V=IR -> The R (Battery Resistance) is constant, so increasing V (Voltage), will increase I (Current).
          The current a battery draws is in proportion to its state of charge. Increasing the voltage will shorten charge time but not the current going into the battery.
          Cheers
          Micheal.

          2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
          2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

          Comment


          • #6
            I think you're both partly right, and partly wrong. The impedance of the battery goes up as the state of charge increases, so at a fixed voltage, as the state of charge increases, the current decreases. You can see this pretty much throughout an alternator charge, and during the absorption and float stages of charger charge. The voltage is held constant and the current slowly decays away as the charge level comes up. Actually, you can also see it during the bulk stage of a charger charge. In that case the current is held constant, at 25A say, and the voltage ramps up. In all of those cases, it's because the battery's impedance is increasing with charge level.

            On the other hand, at a specific state of charge, the higher the voltage you apply, the higher the current into the battery will be. Obviously the state of charge will be changing as you do that, so it's a fairly theoretical instantaneous observation.

            You can't shorten charge times without increasing the current. The total charge you're putting into the battery is the product of current and time, or more correctly their integral since current is typically not constant. A x h give you Ah. If you're going to shorten the charge time (h), then you need to increase A to end up with the same product.

            For what it's worth, after months of only short city trips in my 2.8L Prado with low alternator voltages (~13.4V to ~13.8V) I see my cranking battery end up with an overnight resting voltage as low as 12.2V. I've been able to resolve that by putting it on an overnight AC charger. By comparison, the camping battery which is exposed to the exact same short drive times, always rests at 12.7V (unless it's the morning after an overnight camp, of course). I've never needed to put the camping battery on an external charger. The in-car DC/DC unit seems to keep it fully charged even with short drive times.

            Comment


            • #7
              has anyone worked out if you can use the booster diode in the 2.8
              I took mine out of the 3.0 before I sold it but not game to stuff up the electrics in the 2.8

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Graydog View Post
                has anyone worked out if you can use the booster diode in the 2.8
                I took mine out of the 3.0 before I sold it but not game to stuff up the electrics in the 2.8
                Unfortunately not. I would have happily gone that route myself. Determined to get higher charge voltages at least for the camping battery, and with no easy diode solution in sight, I went the more expensive solution of a DC/DC charger. I believe the 2.8Ls alternator is controlled by the ECU so who knows, they may one day release an update that increases the voltage for those that want it, but I've not heard of such on option as yet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Will
                  I have the 3.0L
                  bob

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    [QUOTE=dBC;574733]I believe the 2.8Ls alternator is controlled by the ECU so who knows, they may one day release an update that increases the voltage for those that want it, but I've not heard of such on option as yet.[/QUiOTE]

                    I looked into that as well , but no-one I know has the ability to hack the can bus controller. Only way around it is to dismantle the alternator and fit a conventional regulator to the slip ring circuit.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by nudgebar View Post

                      I looked into that as well , but no-one I know has the ability to hack the can bus controller. Only way around it is to dismantle the alternator and fit a conventional regulator to the slip ring circuit.
                      What about the (nissan?) fix of cutting/removing the communication wire so that ECU cant 'talk' to the Alt?
                      Cheers
                      Micheal.

                      2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                      2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        120D4D , I havent looked into that . Even with my ( proposed ) trick there may be fault codes brought up.

                        The alternator would have some sort of fail safe mode which would make it put out a fixed voltage in case of Canbus failure. that may be higher or lower than what we need

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi nudgebar, I have not had the opertunity to test one of the new Toyota alternators, or to even inspect one yet, but if you get the chance, can you post up the wire connections on yours.

                          I suspect LeightW has probably looked closely at the new alternator set up, but as you have posted, some Variable Voltage operations can be disabled by simply disconnecting a single wire going to the alternator, and because these alternators have a fail-safe built in, they will then operate at a constant voltage, say 14.4v.

                          But a number of new alternators require TWO wires to be disconnected before they automatically run at a preset constant voltage.

                          Again, if you can, post up the wire connections on your alternator and we might be able to see if there is a comparison to one type or brand of alternator to another.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by drivesafe View Post
                            Hi nudgebar, I have not had the opertunity to test one of the new Toyota alternators, or to even inspect one yet, but if you get the chance, can you post up the wire connections on yours.

                            I suspect LeightW has probably looked closely at the new alternator set up, but as you have posted, some Variable Voltage operations can be disabled by simply disconnecting a single wire going to the alternator, and because these alternators have a fail-safe built in, they will then operate at a constant voltage, say 14.4v.

                            But a number of new alternators require TWO wires to be disconnected before they automatically run at a preset constant voltage.

                            Again, if you can, post up the wire connections on your alternator and we might be able to see if there is a comparison to one type or brand of alternator to another.
                            Hi dirvsafe,
                            Wondering if there is specific thread/posts on how to do the wiring on the 150 - MY14 to allow for full 14.4 voltate?

                            cheers

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by BlokeInOz View Post

                              Hi dirvsafe,
                              Wondering if there is specific thread/posts on how to do the wiring on the 150 - MY14 to allow for full 14.4 voltate?

                              cheers
                              He was referencing what other brands (ie nissan) do with there cutting of the wire mod...

                              The only way for you to do it properly is to get one of LeighW's alternator voltage booster products. Send him a PM or check out hkbelect on ebay...
                              Cheers
                              Micheal.

                              2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                              2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                              Comment

                              canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                              mencisport.com
                              antalya escort
                              tsyd.org deneme bonusu veren siteler
                              deneme bonusu veren siteler
                              gaziantep escort
                              gaziantep escort
                              asyabahis maltcasino olabahis olabahis
                              erotik film izle Rus escort gaziantep rus escort
                              atasehir escort tuzla escort
                              sikis sex hatti
                              en iyi casino siteleri
                              deneme bonusu veren siteler
                              casibom
                              deneme bonusu veren siteler
                              deneme bonusu veren siteler
                              betticket istanbulbahis
                              Working...
                              X