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  1. #37
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    Cheap IPhone OBD monitor and burn initiator - setup

    So I did some tinkering last night and had some great success. This sort of stuff is pretty new to me, so I thought I would document my journey so if others who are less familiar but want to set up a manual burn backup they can too. If I could do it with stubborn ignorance and get it working, others should be able to too.

    Firstly many thanks to all who have posted above on this thread – would not have got anywhere without the info above.

    My objective was to have something that enables checking what the DPF is doing, and initiate a manual burn if I am out in the bush and the DPF light comes on then clear codes (I had a mate who had his go into limp home mode on a trip). I don’t intend watching/logging it continuously, it does not need to be fancy.

    I decided to go down the plug in ELM 327 wi-fi module with an Iphone app rather than a dedicated scan gauge. Did some research, and it looks like Bluetooth adaptors do not work with Iphones, and there are some older/dodgy ELM 327 types out there. I looked on e-bay, found one that looks a bit more modern and had wi-fi and risked a whole $20 to get one of these: Konnwei KW903 ELM327 https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...LM327&_sacat=0

    Next the app – I had no idea if the adaptor would work, so I started with a couple of free apps as I didn’t want to outlay $15/$50 on an app then not have it talk to the dongle etc. The app “Car Scanner” was free, simple and seemed to have what I wanted so I started with that.

    CONNECTING

    First I opened the garage door so I would not gas myself. Plugged the OBD scanner in, started the car. All OK so far.

    Fired up the wifi in settings and it could see the scanner, but was having trouble connecting. Opened the app, which on the home screen shows a connect button and a ELM and ECU connection status. It was seeing the ELM but not the ECU. The app recommended changing the IP address to the ones shown below in the screen shot – went to the wifi connection in settings on the Iphone, set manual IP and it all came good.



    Next step was identifying the make/model codes to use – I went with Toyota 2010+, and the app was up and working and showing the RPM etc.



    DPF monitoring

    So I went into the gauges part of the app to see what DPF info I could get. There was a long list, which is easy as they are all fairly clearly labelled and you can just scroll through them and then click on them. Scanning down there is the following that were of interest:

    1. Exhaust gas temps 1-4 (as above 1 is directly downstream of the engine, 3 is downstream of the DPF, 4 was not available/no data)
    2. DPF differential pressure
    3. DPF upstream and downstream pressures (would not give any data)


    There was no DPF status %, so I went to setup (gear icon top left on home screen in the app) then custom sensors, then used the data in this thread – basically PID 2138 and formula of J*2. And it worked! It was reporting DPF Status as 34%. As with others DPF status jumped in increments of 2.



    So now I had a custom gauge that showed/graphed DPF status, DPF dP and temperature before and after the DPF.
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    Last edited by LeadWings; 12-01-2018 at 02:22 PM.

  2. #38
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    Cheap IPhone OBD monitor and burn initiator - use

    All the above was done in the garage with the car idling – so temps were low. So I went for a drive to test it out, and the temperatures climbed to the 300’s. Inlet temperature was more volatile, downstream temperature was more damped/slower responding.

    DPF dP was negative at idle, and was positive and varied when driving. So I thought I would do an experiment to see if was a nonsense or sensible figure. I figure the dP should be a function of air flow/velocity, so I set up a screen with DPF dP, mass air flow (MAF) and RPM – my car is a manual, so I figured that the flow volume should also be a function of RPM. I know comparing the 3 is simplistic as it will be a function of load, exhaust temperature etc but I was interested to see what came out. Screen shot is below – I was actually surprised how well DPF dP matched MAF.




    INITIATING A BURN

    So after driving around for a bit I figured I would see if I could initiate a burn. Was very nervous about this. So drove home, parked in the garage and started playing again.

    On the home screen there is an icon for “terminal”. Went to this, and just started trying the codes in the first post of this thread.

    First tried 3029060101. It responded with ODT. Tied it again, and got something back as per screen shots below, but no change in RPM/burn etc. Then tried 07E0 05 30 29 06 01 01 00 00, nothing then tried 3029060101 again and suddenly the RPM jumped to 2000, and the DPF light on the dash began to flash.

    See screen shots for the conversation with OBD. I would be keen if anyone can shed some light on what the correct entries should have been, because it was obviously trying to communicate back to me and I got it to work by luck and I am not sure if I could do it again reliably!!!!

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  3. #39
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    Cheap IPhone OBD monitor and burn initiator - burn

    Went back to the monitoring screen and watched the burn happen (note I was playing with the gauge configuration so they change in the shots below).

    DPF status on the app was now reading 100%. Normally (mine is a manual) the RPM for a burn is 1200, but this held 2000 for about 2 minutes, then went back to 1200 for the rest.

    You can see the temperature climb as the burn happens. Max downstream temperature was around 640 C.

    Total burn time was around 10 minutes, and stopped with DPF status at 4%.



    The app is glitchy (often loses the data flow/freezes, then either comes good again or I get out then get back in again). It can also log data to review later, but I haven’t played with that. It can also clear error codes.

    So overall I was stoked – for $20 I had a new toy that enables me to check the DPF status (and other bits and stuff that is happening) and initiate a burn (assuming I can work out how to do it again) and clear codes if the DPF karkes it in the bush.

    I’m keen to hear anyone’s experience if they go down the same route, or other IPhone apps that people recommend. Hope this helps!
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    Last edited by LeadWings; 12-01-2018 at 02:25 PM.

  4. #40
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    Well done, pleased that you got it working. Could you tell me if your app gives the pid that it uses for DPF pressure please. There is a default dpf pressure gauge in torque pro which does not make any sense. It does sound as though torque pro and your app use the same pids if you managed to get the % working by using the same information (2138 j*2)

  5. #41
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    John, I had a look but unfortunately it won’t show me the factory PIDs

  6. #42
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    Thanks for looking, I cant find the default pids shown in torque pro either, nor the ability to edit them it seems all you can do is add a new one. I have read that scan gauge is using different software now so that their equations etc cannot be easily converted to other apps.
    Have you read the thread on the Fortuner forum called "DPF Passive Regen" ? it is in the Tech then Engine section. Someone has posted suggesting using these parameters:
    Name: A (Regen Passive)
    PID: 017a
    Min: 0, Max: 1
    Fn: {B:0}
    Result: 0=ON, 1=OFF

    Name: B (Regen Active)
    PID: 017a
    Min: 0, Max: 1
    Fn: {B:1}
    Result: 0=ON, 1=OFF

    This gives you a readout of what he calls an active and a passive regen.

    I have asked questions such as "what function is 017a monitoring" and have not received a reply leading me to think that it is all B/S but I would love to be proved wrong.

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