Brake Controller fuse burnt

[furryfaerie Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close furryfaerie]

Hi There

I have recently purchased a 2002 Prado TX auto. Im newb to this world so pls be gentle . and excuse my not so technical understanding.

I love the car and want to learn so I figure this is as good as place as any to start

First issue I have is the fuse for the brake controller (i think its this) seems to be well and truly cooked. It is a hayman reese controller - however when i put the apply the brake the red light comes on the brake controller - so i figure it must be getting power some how.

Not sure where to start - i think its called an inline fuse holder for a blade fuse, do i just cut the wires and get a replacement one and crimp it back together? I looked at the universal installation pdf for a hayman reese brake controller and on the diagram it talks about a resettable fuse? Is this what I should get? I thought the idea of a fuse was to draw my attention to some problem that is tripping the fuse or am I misunderstanding the purpose of a resettable fuse. Like I said I have much to learn.

I have yet to hook any thing up to the trailer plug - thinking now I guess i could get a multimeter and test to see if the brakes work? Is that how I can test without attaching a trailer?

I have been doing some reading and this is a culmination of trying to understand how these things work so if anyone could steer me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.

THanks
FF

[Guest Close Guest]

Sounds like someone fitted a standard fuse holder that has melted from your description.
A resettable fuse/breaker should be fitted and the main power for the controller should be from the battery.
You can test the plug with a meter.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

The red light on the controller when you apply brake means the wire from brake switch to controller is intact.
The main power supply is the one you've melted and they're a resettable fuse which looks like a small box 25x15x10high with 2-studs out the top. You'll need a couple of eye connectors on your cables, mount the fuse and then test.
I'd start with the outlet at the drawbar, it's pretty packed in there, unless you have the flat 20-odd pin plug. I have a small round 7-pin and it's a squeeze fitting in all the wires.
There has to be a reason the fuse melted.

[RobboMC Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RobboMC]

I'm not sure how the Hayman Reese controller works but my new controller knows when a trailer is plugged in;
so checking what's happening at the trailer plug may not be helpful.

The fuse may have been fried by the previous owner's trailer. Brakes need to be right, this guy can fix your problems,
I see you're in Sydney.

Glenn the 12V man 0438 777 737

[furryfaerie Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close furryfaerie]

Thank u. It appear that both the earth wire and the active wire were connected to the positive terminal on the battery. Which i dont think is right - wouldnt this cause a problem. I think im going to pull everything out and start again as comparing the diagram hayman reese gave me and what im seeing doesn't really make sense. Maybe i will give 12v man a call. Thank u

[RobboMC Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RobboMC]

Mate I have always done my own car electrics and I've fixed up some nightmares in my time,
but when it came to getting a brake controller I got a professional to do it.

Not only do you have to think about losing your rig if it all goes haywire, there's also the liability issue to consider.
It sounds like a bit of a dogs breakfast, the money you spend with the 12v man is an investment in safety and peace of mind.

I now send my partner and kids off with the controller set to auto to head down Mt Ousley happily knowing the Redarc will look after them and the Jayco behind.