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  1. #1
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    Dual Battery Electrical setup options

    Hi Guys and Girls,
    I'm having a dual battery setup installed by an auto electrician in a few weeks and am looking for what type of options and accessories I should be looking at. I want to run whatever cables are needed now and what I can foresee needing in the future now so if i decide to add something later the cable will already be installed.

    I have a prado 150 with twin drawers and an engel 39 ltr fridge/freezer

    These are the things I'm definitely getting installed
    REDARK 1225D charger solar compatible
    UHF radio
    Battery override switch and solenoid to join battery 1 and 2 together in an emergency to start car
    Anderson plug to rear of vehicle from battery 2 for fridge
    2 sockets at rear from battery 2 for general power
    2 spare circuits run to the rear for future additions

    Possible ideas Ive had to be installed
    Spot lights wiring (I don't have spot lights yet but will get the cables run and a deutsch plug attached ready to be hooked up)
    Anderson plug from battery 1 for compressor (I was thinking of having one in the bonnet and one at the towball)
    Cable with deutsch plug run up to front of roof rack for a lightbar
    Cable with deutsch plug run up to the back of roof rack for 2 work lights/reversing lights
    Maybe some switch cable from rear to console so that if i want to install switches the cable is already their?

    I was thinking of having a solar panel fitted to the roof rack at some stage to help keep the battery topped up, im very limited for space on the roof rack so I'm thinking a semi-flexible solar blanket that can be glued to a piece of metal and bolted to the roof rack. So if this isn't a totally stupid idea then I should probably have the solar cable ran up to the roof rack too.

    Sorry for the confusing post, but if anyone has any tips, or advice on what additions or changes I should make it would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Star

  2. #2
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    You could also run a Neg cable from your Aux batt neg terminal to the engine block then all the way back to the rear of the car to connect to the rear framework and any switchboard/fused board you may want at the back, this will reduce any risk of bad earths anywhere in the back.

  3. #3
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    If you are running wires to rear for fridge, also get one to the tow bar for an anderson plug for any future trailer.

  4. #4
    Avid PP Poster! 120D4D's Avatar
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    You havent stated which model you have (1KD or 1GD) nor Aux battery type, however if you're taking the solenoid path for emergency jump start why not do away with the DCDC and when the solar panel comes along, just add a MPPT controller later.
    Cheers
    Micheal.

    2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
    2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

  5. #5
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    Ive got a diesel and the Aux battery is going to be an AGM, not too sure on the AH rating yet. I'm going to stick with the DCDC charger.

  6. #6
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    Hi Star and not sure what you are after. Your heading is Dual Battery Setup Options, but you then state your sticking with DC/DC. Well that pretty well limits your options!

    As Michael has asked, and Iíll ask in a different way, what year model is your 150?

    Next, you need to workout what battery you are going to go with, as this will help determine whether you are better off with a solenoid isolator because of the limited charging capability of a DC/DC device.

    For example, an Optima Yellowtop or Lead Crystal battery will recharge directly off your alternator in a fraction of the time your DC/DC device can charge these batteries. And I am not meaning your alternator will charge your battery a few minutes quicker than a DC/DC device can. Your alternator could recharge a Lead Crystal battery in around half the time that DC/DC device could do it and an Optima Yellowtop could be charged in less than 1/3 the time your DC/DC device could charge it.

    Also as Michael was trying to point out, even if you ďstickĒ with a DC/DC device, because you are planning to mount solar panels on your roof, which I assume will be able to charge your battery while driving, as Michael posted, you would be far better off having a separate solar regulator and this would allow you to charge your auxiliary battery by your DC/DC device and the solar panels at the same time, thus increasing your recharge current capacity.

    Also note, when charging a battery with a DC/DC device, and running a fridge off that battery, means you have less recharge current available to charge your auxiliary battery.

    With your fridge only drawing a maximum of 2.7A, while a small current draw, it is still a 10% lose in recharge current going to your battery. This means you will need to drive for up to 10% longer to fully charge your auxiliary battery.

    Whereas, when using a solenoid isolator, your alternator will automatically increase itís current output to cover the fridge, and will not reduce the charging current going to your battery while the fridge is running. This means no additional during time is needed and you will easily recharge most batteries in a shorter drive time than your DC/DC device could hope to do it in.

  7. #7
    Junior Member dBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Starfurry View Post
    Battery override switch and solenoid to join battery 1 and 2 together in an emergency to start car
    Starfurry,

    If you wanted to save a bit of money you could lose the solenoid and just always carry a set of jumper leads. I keep a set stashed in the cavity under the folded 3rd row seats, but you're in the best position to decide if that's a compromise you want to make.

  8. #8
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    Ive got a 2017 Prado Diesel 2.8 ltr GXL

  9. #9
    Junior Member dBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Starfurry View Post
    Ive got a 2017 Prado Diesel 2.8 ltr GXL
    Then I think your decision to stick with a DCDC charger is sound.

  10. #10
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    dBC, how is it “sound” when it depends on what battery Star decides to get?

    As has already been proven, an Optima will recharge in a fraction of the time it takes to charge it with a DC/DC device, in a NEW Toyota.

    Once again, as it has been proven, a DC/DC charger will take MUCH longer to recharge something like an Optima in a new Toyota, so how on earth is this “sound”.

    Star can I suggest, before you purchase anything, do a bit more research not just what works, but what will actually give the optimum setup to both recharge your battery in the shortest drive time, which also means your battery is going to have the longest possible life span, depending on how you use your DBS.

    EDIT Hi Star, everybody sets up the DBS they prefer. You asked a question and I have provided you with some FACTS about what potentially can work to achieve your needs, but the link below can give you a good insight to whether a DC/DC device is an advantage or a disadvantage.

    If you have a chance, read a few of the following pages in the link.

    http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthr...2-8-1GD/page17
    Last edited by drivesafe; 16-11-2017 at 06:58 AM.

  11. #11
    Junior Member dBC's Avatar
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    Starfurry,

    Check out Jimmy's experience with his Optima and low charge voltages here:

    http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthr...Second-battery

    When he took it up with Optima they pretty much told him: yep, we specify the minimum charge voltage at 13.65V for a reason.

    If you had the older 3.0L D4D then there are easy options to boost the alternator output voltage, but until somebody comes up with something similar for the 2.8L I would no longer recommend a VSR solution to anyone, and I'm not selling anything.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dBC View Post
    I would no longer recommend a VSR solution to anyone, and I'm not selling anything.
    And you base this statement on your wealth of experience in this field, Oh thats right, you didn't know how to do something as simple as charge a battery with a battery charger, without destroying the battery.

    You posted up one single event and we have no idea what was the actual cause of the Optima's demise, but Michael has had both a DC/DC device and an isolator, and he has had FAR better results charging his auxiliary battery after REMOVING the DC/DC device.

    Just for your benefit, it does not require a constant voltage of above 13.65v to fully charge an Optima, it only requires that voltage level for the final stage of the charge and as DC/DC devices CAN NOT charge at a constant voltage as high as that, EXCEPT in the final stage of the charge, your theory would then mean a DC/DC device will also stuff batteries.

    You bought a DC/DC device and so now, because YOU bought a DC/DC device, as far as you are concerned nothing else can charge batteries.

    Your statements are not based on FACTS, they are based on nothing more than the grossly exaggerated hype used to sell a device that most people do not need in the first place.

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