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Mongoose M80G Immobiliser install

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  • Mongoose M80G Immobiliser install

    Hi,

    I recently bought a M80G immobiliser and plan to install it myself to save on labor costs. One question I have is where should I connect the immobiliser wires? Should these be at the wires from the ECU or should I connect them downstream, after the fuse box?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    You get 3-sets of immobiliser circuits. Usually one is the starter solenoid, another the ECU and lastly the fuel pump.
    Fuel pump is controlled by the ecu anyway but it's up to you what you decide.
    So you'll be interrupting the starter solenoid wire somewhere between the key and the starter.
    The others can be interrupted close to the ecu.
    They come with metres of wire, it gets messy unless you decide where the unit is going to be mounted and then trim the wires to suit. All black wires too so keep track once you remove the tags. Test your mount position before you bolt it down, the aerial may not be in a suitable place. Mine would work from over 50 metres when out on the floor and that came back to about 3 metres once mounted under the dash.
    The M80 might give you the s**ts with its auto alarm feature, you can't alter it and I used to get really cranky with mine. You unlock the car, start loading in groceries and next thing off goes the siren. You need to keep the fob handy.
    Unsure what door actuator you'll be using but the type that clamps onto the rod inside the door comes loose. I sourced extra clamps and had no more troubles.
    With age, they suck down your car battery as the siren's internal battery is a constant drain.

    Comment


    • #3
      Forgot, another trap was pin 14 which is your ACC power.
      This means you can sit in the car with ACC on, radio on etc and the alarm is off.
      Next you need to check that when you turn the key to "start" that power still runs to pin 14.
      Some cars turn ACC off to ease the cranking load while starting. Mine did and it drove me crazy working out what was going on.
      But that auto arm feature……. what a pain. Turn the car off at the servo and by the time you've opened the fuel cap the alarm has armed.
      It was impossible to lock the keys in my car if they were in the IGN but you need to test that one or you may find your car locked with keys inside.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated!

        I got some more questions:

        Regarding the immobiliser wires, there are four wires per pair. Are these wires meant to be installed on 4 separate points per interrupted circuit? That means i'll be cutting one circuit at 4 separate locations, is that correct?

        Regarding the doors actuators, is it ok to use the Toyota solenoids that came with the Prado?
        Last edited by KZJ95W; 01-12-2017, 03:02 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Now you've got me, this was a while ago and I don't remember anything tricky. I just read my old instructions and I see it says 2-pairs per immob. circuit, just as you queried.
          The immob. circuits are each good for switching 15amps which is plenty for the items suggested and each item will only need one pair for switching, guess I didn't use the extra pairs. My fuel pump was switched upstream of the relay, so it was only the trigger load, not the big pump amperage. Likewise the ecu was switched at the ecu's relay.
          Toyota actuators will be great but you'll have to test the factory wiring so you know if they're positive or negative switched. The unit has all options covered with it's wiring options.

          Comment


          • #6
            If you look at each immob. pair, the wires are joined at the crimp connector, so they simply doubled up the wires. Guess it offers more options ??
            You can just trim off the unused wire at each end connector or even fit new crimp-on connectors, they're nothing flash.
            (I checked a spare M80 kit I'd bought when the siren battery died. Was cheaper to buy a complete M80 that just the siren !!!)

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks! The battery in the siren can't be replaced?

              Comment


              • #8
                Should be a replaceable part. I don't have the old siren to check. May have tamper proof screw heads or some reason I went the way I did?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Another question: Where should the Trunk CH2 wire be connected? What does CH2 mean? I left this wire unconnected for now as I'm not sure what CH2 means but I think it's for the rear door.

                  EDIT: Found it. My bad.. it was in the user manual.
                  Last edited by KZJ95W; 20-12-2017, 03:07 PM.

                  Comment

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