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  • Basic aftermarket essentials

    Hey guys and girls

    Quite new to the diesel scene and doing some research of my own before asking questions has me informed but confused in regards to what seems like “essential upgrades” on the 2.8 D4D MY18 Prado

    Air oil separators via a catch can ... seems like a unanimous yes but is it really needed on the latest technology D4D ? If so what kit is the best and who’s running what and when do you drain them ?

    EGR delete plates.... this has me confused as it’s not a full delete just a reduction plate,so who’s running them and is it a necessary modification or is there something better here ?

    Pre filters...... the diesel additional pre filter system/kits, being what sounds like a brilliant precautionary modification who’s running what kit and what filter micron spec to use here ?

    Throttle controller..... what kits are people using and why over say “X” kit and is it really undetected by Toyota Service plebs ?

    Aftermarket Exhausts .... yes - no ? Stainless-mild steel ? Brands and any sound clips kicking around ?

    Air filter elements.... Uni filter,K&N or factory on the standard air box ?


    A few questions i know but i would say most of you blokes out there would have most or all of these things already and probably done a bunch of leg work I’d love to be informed on please

    Thanks in advance to any advice
    [SIZE=5][/SIZE]...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...

  • #2
    A lot of answers will be personal, but here's mine;

    1. Catch-Can - I have a ProVent 200. This is what Berrima Diesel use, as do other quality mechanics. Fitted about $450 from memory. I drain it every 4000km or so and around 50 - 150ml of oil will come out. Yes, in modern diesels you will need it (it's only really needed in modern diesels as its the newish EGR thing that you're trying to not clog up here). Get it from a reputable dealer - the latest is that ProVent is being copied and dodgy after-markets are on the street (if you know what the paper white filter element looks like, that helps).

    2. EGR Delete plates. There are some knowledgeable people on here who will say yes. I won't, however, as blocking the EGR is illegal. On the off chance you're involved a crash, then if it's noticed by the insurance company that you have one fitted (say they have your wri, then you are driving an illegal and therefore unregistered and therefore uninsured vehicle. There's also the idea that any Police random inspector that know's diesels will be able to look for it. Some say put a 7mm hole in the blanking plate - I don't know if this makes it illegal or not (as you're not blocking it off). However, I can't see how it then prevents oily fumes entering the EGR.

    3. Pre-Filters - again from Berrima Diesel, their recommendation is that you can put a pre-filter on, don't bother with a post-filter (due to any post-filter no longer having the benefit of the sensors in the main filter). Plenty of opinions on this one too and my opinion won't meet everyone else. I have my 2016GXL serviced at Berrima and I don't have one on - they've actually suggested to leave it as the Toyota one is pretty good in any case. If I were to regularly potentially pick up dodgy fuel, then perhaps fit one then. I'm not saying they're not worth it - but not a priority for me. Chances are, I will likely fit one when mine is out of warranty somewhere down the track or if I head bush more than I currently do.

    4. Sorry, no idea on the throttle controllers. Try driving around in Sport mode and see if you need it.

    5. Exhaust - I am waiting on a High-Flow DPF exhaust to be developed (two seperate Aus manufactures are hoping to release them in early 2018). This means I can get rid of the DPF Toyota give us, while opening up the flow. I am sceptical about an exhaust that only starts at the DPF and goes back (I'd suggest it's still just as restrictive), and if you chose one that deletes your DPF you're into that whole driving an illegal/ unregistered/ uninsured car again - this is why this type will always in a rather dodgy manner say "for off-road use only" but then see you drive it out the shop.

    6. Air filter - the standard one is fine. Have a look in your filter box - you will see a metal sheet that slows the air down and distributes it all evenly in any case - so a more 'free-flowing' filter won't do much.

    Comment


    • #3
      Wow thanks CamJam that’s a brilliant response and very appreciated as I’m sure this thread might help other newbys out to !

      1. Sounds the goods and i have read about the ProVent already so glad it’s the recommended choice !

      2. Bloody good point mate and also my thoughts on the part block, just doesn’t sound right

      3. Have heard that if you’re in major cities a pre filter isn’t that necessary but love informative options so thanks and I’ll see if it’s worth the money vs useable gain

      4. Silly question but I thought sport mode was a VX/Kakadu option only ? Maybe i have no idea still haha , how do i turn it on with the GLX ?

      5. What manufacturer/s are the ones to look out for as i do like the idea of a DPF delete but also understand I don’t want to void my insurance by some stretch

      6. Sweet thanks
      [SIZE=5][/SIZE]...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...

      Comment


      • #4
        The GXL has sport mode - in Drive just shift the lever to the right.

        When I talk about the High-Flow DPF filter - I mean one that still has a DPF in it, but they're none out there for the 150 just yet. Again, if you take the DPF off, then you're uninsured. My (albeit somewhat morbid) take on an uninsured vehicle is not about me, or my vehicle - but either paying off the other dudes Bentley or, worse, paying out of my pocket for his or my kids medical bills for life if they're injured and I get told I am uninsured because I blocked an EGR or a deleted DPF.

        Others take the risk - but IMHO that's not a risk they are entitled to take as it's potentially my kid who needs the medical support that their insurance won't pay out if they hit me. Unless they've got spare few $000,000's of thousands over 20+ years, I don't think they could afford it either - leaving the bill with me and mine or substandard medical care. Like I said, morbid a little - but it's true. Almost like the drink driver who says "I don't care if I crash my car or kill myself" without realising no-one cares about him, it's all about the other family he takes out on the way.

        Comment


        • #5
          Oh is that it, yeh nar sport mode is nothing exciting haha i had some imaginary visions of scrolling through the menu options and finding the elusive “super sports” mode haha not to be it seems

          Oh right o, check I understand now and yeh a “better” DPF would be good to have with a full hi flowing system if that’s clearly the stage we will need to be at to be “leagal”

          I’m of the same opinion mate and totally agree so no worries there and do intend on maintaining roadworthy status for the insurance mainly so looking forward to what becomes available in due course then
          [SIZE=5][/SIZE]...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...

          Comment


          • #6
            Sounds like you should have bought a sports car, the prado isn't designed to be dynamic on a racing track.

            Comment


            • #7
              It may seem like that from what I’m asking but yes i do own a VF R8 clubsport already so I’m not comparing anything here

              What i have compared the Prado to is a Jeep Blackhawk,Wildtrack and a Z71 colorado... all diesels and all were auto but the acceleration from those three leaves the Prado for dead but again this thread isn’t to make the Prado fast but to comprehend what’s needed to be done to make my new GLX something reliable and breath better if possible.

              The main point of this thread is to gain the knowledge that “most” blokes would know about the Prado and get myself into a position where i could fit the right parts at the start of the vehicles life and hopefully keep the engine cleaner for longer type thing
              [SIZE=5][/SIZE]...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...

              Comment


              • #8
                Not many people posting during the festivities so though I would try to get this thread going again although as usual I don't really know what I am talking about.

                EGR delete plates, lots of info on here and also on the internet, both good and bad, however why do we actually need to put in a plate? the Russian BitBox software will apparently keep the EGR valve shut and prevent any alarms so wouldn't this be the best course of action if you didn't want your intake manifold and valve stems carboning up with black exhaust leftovers? Would this method be detectable?

                Diesel filters, I have a commercial fishing boat that uses a Racor prefilter, this holds about 7 litres of fuel and works by centrifugal action and has easily changeable various elements from a washable stainless steel to 5 micron insert. This is necessary because fibreglass tanks sweat and the diesel may sometimes be of dubious quality, but surely none of these problems exist on a Prado?

                DPF, personally I would wait for an answer from Toyota to this known about issue. Although having said that I can't see them changing to a larger size DPF unless absolutely forced to if many more fail. It does seem odd to me that Toyota DPFs need to regenerate actively every 300 Km when a Jeep can apparently go for 1500 KMs

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey guys.
                  Only new to the whole Prado thing myself but here's my two cents.

                  1. Catch can
                  Is a must. I installed one on my car about a week after i bought it and I'm amazed at the amount of water and oil the thing catches. I've got a 2012 GX 3Lt. I'm surprised that plumbing the oil back into the turbo and the intercooler was a good idea at some point. I say go for it. They are very easy to fit yourself and I'd encourage you to do it. It's really not hard and as it' not really a critical part of the engine, if you do stuff it up and cant fit it, you can still drive your car to a mechanics to fit it. Give it a go.

                  2. EGR blanking.
                  I've just written up a thread under the engine section after spending the weekend cleaning mine out. It's not something you;d ever pay someone to do as it would be expensive, but i'm glad i did it. The amount of carbon build up wasnt as bad as i had seen in other threads, but i still managed to drag 130grams of carbon out of the manifold and intake system. The hole within the plates allow a small amount of exhaust to be scavenged. This is detected by the ECU and all things are fine. If you block it off all together the engine will notice and flag it. The remaps that you are talking about just disable this.

                  3. Fuel filter
                  Again plenty of options out there, just make sure you get one that has a better flow rate that your current one. By adding another filter, you increase the amount of pressure in the fuel lines and on the pump. So if you current fliter is 50lt/minute, get something that is 80 or 120lt/minute. It'll still filter the fuel, but wont increase the pressure as much and give your pump a bit of a break.

                  4. Throttle controller
                  I havent got one of these yet and i'm undecided. The fly by wire setup really annoys me and i find that with an auto, its made so much worse. if you get one, make sure you write up about it and let us know what you think.

                  5. exhaust.
                  Just do it. Find one that fits your budget and do it.
                  There are so many options out there and really they all do the same thing. The more pricey ones will have better build quality and better materials. My only advice, consider long drives in a wagon (Sound box) with a drone from an exhaust. Straight through sounds great when you plant it in the dunes, but crusing at 110km/hr on teh freeway for 4 hours. yeah..... you might get sick of it.

                  6. Air filter.
                  I've opted to stay with the standard for the moment. I like the idea of a K&N but i also dont. The sport filters use an oil membrane to help filter the air, but living in WA there is a fair bit of dust floating around. So if doing a big drive somewhere i'd need to take cleaning products and more oil to clean the filter. A standard one i can tap out and keep going. Depends on what you are doing and what type of driving you do. If your a city driver that is never off the black top, K&N may be the go. A prefilter (snorkel condom) may also be the go if you do off road a bit.

                  Hope it helps mate. Happy to further explain anything where i can.

                  Enjoy the prado mate.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sorry mate, Forgot to add to your list.
                    light bar or spotties
                    and diff breathers.

                    if your talking about making your car last, install a set of diff breathers for both diffs, your transfer case and the gear box.
                    These when hot will push air out as it all gets hot and expands.
                    if you ever drive through water, and i'm talking door sill height, the sudden cold water and make the factory breathers suck in water, which of course you wont know about till something goes bang. day to day driving may also lead to dust being sucked in as well.

                    I got a cheap set of ebay ones and set about half a day crawling under teh car trying to work out how to fit them. They have small brass bearing filters and it's tucked under the engine bay now. I've heard of people plumbing these into the cabin, but having smelt the hot oil smells coming from my own after a hot days driving, there is no way i'd have that in my car.

                    Sorry mate, that list is going to grow......quick

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi JETURBO re the air filter, I just use the Toyota filter but if you’re going to do much dirt road driving you may want to consider fitting a snorkel. The standard air intake takes air from the front mud guard and you’d be surprised how much crap it picks up. Seems like a dumb place to put it considering the Prado is supposed to be able to go anywhere. You’ll also then have protection form water ingestion if you have to undertake any water crossings (ditto on the diff breather extenders if you’re going to tackle water). Cheers.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey guys and girls

                        Quite new to the diesel scene and doing some research of my own before asking questions has me informed but confused in regards to what seems like “essential upgrades” on the 2.8 D4D MY18 Prado

                        Air oil separators via a catch can ... seems like a unanimous yes but is it really needed on the latest technology D4D ? If so what kit is the best and who’s running what and when do you drain them ?

                        There is a theory that significantly reducing oil mist actually makes the EGR gases abrasive which can speed up motor wear and tear, I wish there was some solid info on this but I have not found any

                        EGR delete plates.... this has me confused as it’s not a full delete just a reduction plate,so who’s running them and is it a necessary modification or is there something better here ?

                        This is also a grey area apprently Toyotas system works with the throttle body butterfly positioning / total air flow intake so they say when a restrictor plate is put in the intake butterfly closes down until the correct airflow is met which in turn is drawing the same lts. of exhaust gas from the EGR as prior, once again I can't confirm but if any one knowns tis is definetly not the case please post.

                        Pre filters...... the diesel additional pre filter system/kits, being what sounds like a brilliant precautionary modification who’s running what kit and what filter micron spec to use here ?

                        FM100s tend to be the most common reguardless of brand or level of micron filtration they are putting more strain on the fuel pump how much and if it's significant enough to warrant not putting one in doubtful, and are they needed ? If you are intending on doing remote travel I'd definetly recommended it.

                        Throttle controller..... what kits are people using and why over say “X” kit and is it really undetected by Toyota Service plebs ?

                        Most I have seen just plug into your foot pedal if your concerned about Toyota just take it off, only takes 30 seconds, iDrive have a money back guarantee they are available at OL amoungst a lot of other retailers.

                        Aftermarket Exhausts .... yes - no ? Stainless-mild steel ? Brands and any sound clips kicking around ?

                        The majority of your exhaust flow is being restricted by the DPF adding an aftermarket DPF back exhaust would be a waste of money in my opinion

                        Air filter elements.... Uni filter,K&N or factory on the standard air box ?

                        OEM filters, after a while you get over cleaning K&N filters and eventually they will dirty your MAF sensor

                        A few questions i know but i would say most of you blokes out there would have most or all of these things already and probably done a bunch of leg work I’d love to be informed on please

                        Thanks in advance to any advice

                        We have a catch can on our 2.8 it definetly catches a fair amount of oil, I have not touched the EGR, I would like to have a re map done to increase fuel economy and close the EGR.
                        At the same this will eliminate the need for a throttle controller and or EGR plate. I have previously used K&Ns on other 4wds ect but have no intention of putting one on the Prado, I will buy a snorkel sock to use on touring trips where we are following. Currently have no intention of touching the exhaust. Hope this can be of some help
                        Phs
                        Senior Member
                        Last edited by Phs; 10-01-2018, 06:03 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Phs View Post
                          Hey guys and girls


                          This is also a grey area apprently Toyotas system works with the throttle body butterfly positioning / total air flow intake so they say when a restrictor plate is put in the intake butterfly closes down until the correct airflow is met which in turn is drawing the same lts. of exhaust gas from the EGR as prior, once again I can't confirm but if any one knowns tis is definetly not the case please post.


                          [/COLOR]
                          Phys,

                          I've been driving around lately with the Toyota Mechanic with his laptop running some program and plugged into the OBD Port - so far for about an hour. It was primarily to find out what the squealing/ pressurised sound thing was that we both heard (thankfully - finally Toyota has heard it!).

                          I reply because he was hooked up to see the EGR and seeing if it was working or not when the squeal occurred (along with many other things). He was telling me when the EGR was open or closed - and it took sweet FA to close it off - I'm talking a left turn rolling into another street and gently accelerating away. Under that scenario, he said the computer was telling him the EGR was closed. I looked and it was only at most around 1400 - 1700Rpm when it was closed. I should have asked if it was open at 80km/h (so higher Revs) or whether it opened on the fact it was accelerating or not but I didn't dammit. It goes in on Friday to have another look (including DPF... again...) so I might ask then.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by JETURBO View Post

                            5. What manufacturer/s are the ones to look out for as i do like the idea of a DPF delete but also understand I don’t want to void my insurance by some stretch
                            Sorry - missed this part. I've emailed Mantapro and they've indicated testing is nearing completion on the high-flow DPF. There was another company I emailed late last year but I can't find the emails unfortunately - but they said the same thing (although testing was complete on it).

                            Both will replace the DPF with a high-flow DPF, and the whole exhaust. To me that's a win - high flow and getting rid of the Toyota DPF. I am guessing the biggest part of testing would be getting emissions regulations right and then also adjusting for the fault codes the Toyota ECU may throw up... Either way - can't come soon enough!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by CamJam View Post
                              Phys,

                              I've been driving around lately with the Toyota Mechanic with his laptop running some program and plugged into the OBD Port - so far for about an hour. It was primarily to find out what the squealing/ pressurised sound thing was that we both heard (thankfully - finally Toyota has heard it!).

                              I reply because he was hooked up to see the EGR and seeing if it was working or not when the squeal occurred (along with many other things). He was telling me when the EGR was open or closed - and it took sweet FA to close it off - I'm talking a left turn rolling into another street and gently accelerating away. Under that scenario, he said the computer was telling him the EGR was closed. I looked and it was only at most around 1400 - 1700Rpm when it was closed. I should have asked if it was open at 80km/h (so higher Revs) or whether it opened on the fact it was accelerating or not but I didn't dammit. It goes in on Friday to have another look (including DPF... again...) so I might ask then.
                              They close under load / throttle. Open on idle and decel to what % I can't confirm. On cold start there closer to closed and toyo are one of The only ones that don't run completely closed on cold start, hence why those basic EGR off modules are not available for the Prados / landcruisers
                              Phs
                              Senior Member
                              Last edited by Phs; 10-01-2018, 08:27 PM.

                              Comment

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