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  • Temperature Issue

    I noticed recently the temp on my Scanguage which is normally solid on 85/86 degrees C suddenly when under load towing or beach driving it moves up to 89/90. Then not towing and driving on the beach it hit 99/100 and i pulled up and it worked back down to 85/86. I don't watch the Toyota guage as even with the temp moving up and down the standard guages are rubbish as they don't show bugger all movement.

    I had a look and the thermo fan on the front of the condenser was not running and doesn't seem to turn on at all. What fuse does that run off or how do i check. I only say this as i have a Commodore as well and the second the Aircon is on the thermofan kicks.

    Secondly how do you check the viscous fan is locking up properly as i would have expected to her it roaring as it crept up.

    Thanks in advance

  • #2
    You can check the viscous fan hub by taking it off hold a hair dryer onto the bimetallic coil on the back and check that the hub rotates. I had a similar issue with my hub. I ended up taking it off draining the oil and refilling with 2 x tubes of new silicone fluid. Works perfectly now.

    My symptoms were weak fan when idling hot and very little increase in speed with temperature rise.
    2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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    • #3
      Originally posted by thebigo View Post
      I noticed recently the temp on my Scanguage which is normally solid on 85/86 degrees C suddenly when under load towing or beach driving it moves up to 89/90. Then not towing and driving on the beach it hit 99/100 and i pulled up and it worked back down to 85/86. I don't watch the Toyota guage as even with the temp moving up and down the standard guages are rubbish as they don't show bugger all movement.

      I had a look and the thermo fan on the front of the condenser was not running and doesn't seem to turn on at all. What fuse does that run off or how do i check. I only say this as i have a Commodore as well and the second the Aircon is on the thermofan kicks.

      Secondly how do you check the viscous fan is locking up properly as i would have expected to her it roaring as it crept up.

      Thanks in advance
      The condenser fan only runs when the rear air is on.
      Theres a relay in the LHS fuse box called CDS and a fuse there as well.

      If the viscous fan is working when the engine is hot you'll hear it roar with the engine revving.
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      • #4
        OK so started the Prado up this morning and without the rear aircon on the condenser fan is not on. I switched the rear aircon on and flatout and then looked at the condenser fan and still no go.

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        • #5
          OK so an update here is i went to a wrecker and got another fan and hub to test and fitted it and same issue. I am wondering now Radiator?

          Have people had their's cleaned/serviced at a radiator shop. How have they decided to get theirs done.

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          • #6
            Driving in sand, particularly if soft, will really stress out the coolant and transmission temperatures... towing is the same story.

            Mine fluctuates between 85 and 91 along the motorway, depending on the day and if it's a hill, so no big deal there. I would be more concerned if it went up to 9/100 and over and stayed there for an extended period of time. It would mean that (a) your giving it a hard time, or, (b) there's something wrong.
            Stan Miko

            - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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            • #7
              Originally posted by stanmiko View Post
              Driving in sand, particularly if soft, will really stress out the coolant and transmission temperatures... towing is the same story.

              Mine fluctuates between 85 and 91 along the motorway, depending on the day and if it's a hill, so no big deal there. I would be more concerned if it went up to 9/100 and over and stayed there for an extended period of time. It would mean that (a) your giving it a hard time, or, (b) there's something wrong.
              Yeah it only goes up under load. As soon as you ease up it drops back but it is not normal range. It might go up one degree on a hill on the highway but now it jumps 5 degrees up then when you get over the hill it drops back again.

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              • #8
                So passing Toyota today went in to price a new radiator and they said over $900. No thanks.

                Has anyone replaced their Radiator and what brand did they use or did they get a radiator repair mob to repair theirs?

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                • #9
                  Aftermarket radiator for my 120 V6 was about $250 from memory . My mechanic had replaced quite a few Prado radiators which had corroded on the OUTSIDE at the bottom .ie they were falling apart from the outside not corroding from the inside. This meant that the cooling vanes were falling off. It is impossible to see without taking the radiator out. A common problem is baked on mud/spinafex in the bottom third of both the radiator and a/c condensor. Very difficult to remove. While you have the radiator out check what else in there needs doindg eg water pump, pulley bearings etc as well as extra silicone in the fan hub. As I said aftermarket is much cheaper and mine was in for 4 years when I sold it with no problems. At $250- 300 it is a no brainer if you are having trouble.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 404pug View Post
                    Aftermarket radiator for my 120 V6 was about $250 from memory . My mechanic had replaced quite a few Prado radiators which had corroded on the OUTSIDE at the bottom .ie they were falling apart from the outside not corroding from the inside. This meant that the cooling vanes were falling off. It is impossible to see without taking the radiator out. A common problem is baked on mud/spinafex in the bottom third of both the radiator and a/c condensor. Very difficult to remove. While you have the radiator out check what else in there needs doindg eg water pump, pulley bearings etc as well as extra silicone in the fan hub. As I said aftermarket is much cheaper and mine was in for 4 years when I sold it with no problems. At $250- 300 it is a no brainer if you are having trouble.
                    Thanks for the info and response. I'll see what i can find aftermarket.

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                    • #11
                      I think Toyota are taking the piss charging $1000 for a radiator that aftermarket is under $300.

                      I read up the Denso ones are good and they make the ones for Toyota but having trouble finding where to get one from as the ones i can find all have radiator caps which mine doesn't. Found these possibles if anyone has used them.

                      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator-...IAAOSw-CpYAdqX

                      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW...IAAOSwP~tW3mGF

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                      • #12
                        If the condenser fan does not operate at all, that would be the first thing to solve.

                        Replacing the radiator may not solve the problem at all.

                        Assuming we are talking about an Auto transmission Prado, under load the transmission adds a lot of heat to the radiator.
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                        • #13
                          Also found these guys which look OK. Anyone dealt with these guys and have feedback on the quality.

                          http://www.fenixradiators.com.au/kdj120-8-06-7-09

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                          • #14
                            For rads, I can only personally recommend Denso, and I have heard only good things about Aussie Desert Coolers. I personally would avoid PwubbleeewR. A mechanic mate got one custom built for his 80's Rangie (coz they are the best alloy rad right? The advertising says so...) and it was engineered by a moron! Tall radiator with no provision for expansion for the LOOONG tubes , so it split at the joint between the tubes and the top tank on the first trip. They did not want to know about it and refused to accept that it was a complete clusterf*#k; apparently denial is not just a river in Africa.
                            cheers
                            Steve

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                            • #15
                              I bought one on eBay for around that $200 mark and there has been nothing wrong with it. If you DO get one of these, make sure you have removed all plugs and seals from the inlets and outlets and back flush it from bottom to top to remove any residual crap. Other than that, if it has a warranty... go for it.
                              Stan Miko

                              - 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D

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