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  • Inner CV Boots leaking?

    Hi there,
    I bought a 2007 VX grade auto prado V6 last year in August end, with 45,000kms. Immediately added a 2" stage 2 Icon lift to it, and now after 27,000kms at 72,000kms the Inner CV boots have grease leaking. Checked FJ forums, and when since our front end of the 120 series prado is almost identical in drive train and suspension most have said it is due to the extra angle of the lift, that causes the clamps to sit at an odd angle to factory, thus resulting in leaking grease.

    Just wanted to check if anyone here has had similar issues, and the fix is simply to replace the stainless clamps with stock or quality hose clamps as the FJ community in the US do.

    Some pictures attached, the drivers side is more. I do not have any other issues, of clicking/clunking noise from the bearings on full turn, and no vibrations at high speed.





    [color=#800000]Vanhack
    LWB 2007 Prado 4.0 V6
    2" Icon stage 2 lift, VHF Radio, Rear Pintle Hook, GPS, Bash plate, IPF Super Rallye drivelights.[/color]

  • #2
    I experience exactly the same thing following lift my Prado with too tall a spring resulting in undesirable CV angles. I could have installed a diff drop kit but due to the amount of droop left following the upgrade, I opted for swapping the springs which in turn levelled out my CV angles and no more leaks...
    2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

    Comment


    • #3
      I would be fitting a diff drop kit. You can get them off a very friendly and competent fellow here on pradopoint. They don't cost much, and straighten out those shfts nicely. You can send Andrew a PM using this link
      http://www.pradopoint.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=14108
      You really should take out that shaft and clean it up. By the look of that gease, water has got in, and you will chew out the joint in no time.
      2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.

      Comment


      • #4
        I had the same issue shortly after installing a lift. It's not really the amount of lift that caused it but the process of installing the lift requires the drive shaft to be drooped down further than normal to allow the release of the strut. This disturbs the clamps.

        I took it to the wheel alignment/suspension expert and he cleaned it up and put on new aftermarket clamps and all is good now. The clamps are the type that doesn't need the shaft to be removed to get the clamp in like the Toyota ones.

        And thanks for the referral, Steve

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by amts View Post
          I took it to the wheel alignment/suspension expert and he cleaned it up and put on new aftermarket clamps and all is good now. The clamps are the type that doesn't need the shaft to be removed to get the clamp in like the Toyota ones.
          Can you tell me who this expert is as I've lost a fair amount of grease and need to change over my clamps. Is it possible to regrease without changing the whole assembly??

          Thanks
          04 GXL - Red Centa dual battery, Alloy B/bar, BFG AT's, Rhino Rack commercial bars x 3, GME TX3540, TJM roof cage, Outback Ideas recovery points, LHS rear drawer, 2" Dobinsons/Bilstein lift, ARB CKMA12 air compressor, CoilRite airbags, ARB 2.5m awning, MCC Dual Wheel Carrier, Eagle Eye headlights with 55w hid lo beam.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Gramps View Post
            Can you tell me who this expert is as I've lost a fair amount of grease and need to change over my clamps. Is it possible to regrease without changing the whole assembly??

            Thanks
            Greg's Alignment Solutions
            Address: 12/10 Opala St, Regency Park SA 5010
            Phone: 8244 6763
            amts
            Ninja Poster.
            Last edited by amts; 10-11-2014, 11:49 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks AMTS. I've got a day off early next month so I'll give him a call and book in.
              04 GXL - Red Centa dual battery, Alloy B/bar, BFG AT's, Rhino Rack commercial bars x 3, GME TX3540, TJM roof cage, Outback Ideas recovery points, LHS rear drawer, 2" Dobinsons/Bilstein lift, ARB CKMA12 air compressor, CoilRite airbags, ARB 2.5m awning, MCC Dual Wheel Carrier, Eagle Eye headlights with 55w hid lo beam.

              Comment


              • #8
                Good luck with your "Clamps Gramps!"
                SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
                2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
                LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ahhhhh! So now you're a comedian.
                  04 GXL - Red Centa dual battery, Alloy B/bar, BFG AT's, Rhino Rack commercial bars x 3, GME TX3540, TJM roof cage, Outback Ideas recovery points, LHS rear drawer, 2" Dobinsons/Bilstein lift, ARB CKMA12 air compressor, CoilRite airbags, ARB 2.5m awning, MCC Dual Wheel Carrier, Eagle Eye headlights with 55w hid lo beam.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Gramps View Post
                    Ahhhhh! So now you're a comedian.
                    Well, he tries anyway ☺️


                    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                    Cheers
                    Blake

                    04 Silver Diesel GXL with lots of stuff
                    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I've gone through Greg for my post suspension install alignment, knows his stuff very well, happy enough to have a chat / share his knowledge while working as well which I rate pretty highly.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Digging up an old one, but same problem for me.

                        Just discovered drivers side inner boot missing a clamp (boot still intact) - have put a cable tie on for today is this detrimental or an okay patch for a few days?

                        Passenger side inner boot is torn in 2. Is it okay to drive the car for a few days until I can get it somewhere? obviously won't be going on the beach or water, but i have a 30km round trip to work (bitumen city driving)...

                        I'll give Gregs alignment a call on Tuesday.

                        I'm guessing given the man hours to get in there for a boot, a new/rebuilt shaft may be worthwhile? car is 05 V6 with 195k on it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You can drive with it like that for a long time, but if it's lost any of the grease, or gotten dust, water or tiny bits of gravel inside then you'll be up for a new cv shaft as opposed to just replacing the boot. If the clamp went MIA it's spilled a fair bit of its grease for sure because the boot will pull back a fair amount from where it's normally clamped. Was everything immediately behind it a mess with splattered and globs of grease? For the boot that's torn you will definitely be up for a new shaft. The time involved to replace the boot is the same as just replacing the shaft anyway. If you go off-roading then just replace both shafts regardless so one doesn't fail on you when you need it most.
                          2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Brett1979 View Post
                            You can drive with it like that for a long time, but if it's lost any of the grease, or gotten dust, water or tiny bits of gravel inside then you'll be up for a new cv shaft as opposed to just replacing the boot. If the clamp went MIA it's spilled a fair bit of its grease for sure because the boot will pull back a fair amount from where it's normally clamped. Was everything immediately behind it a mess with splattered and globs of grease? For the boot that's torn you will definitely be up for a new shaft. The time involved to replace the boot is the same as just replacing the shaft anyway. If you go off-roading then just replace both shafts regardless so one doesn't fail on you when you need it most.
                            thanks Brett you've confirmed my gut feelings.

                            the car's gettting on, so we were expecting some maintenance stuff to crop up.

                            we go offroad a little (hopefully more as the kids grow up and enjoy camping a bit more) .

                            it's odd the one without clamp doesn't look like it's moved at all , but will let the pros inspect and advise .

                            now i'm going to get paranoid about replacement shafts not being as good as the real deal (but from a quick google i won't be getting genuine as they're saying they're up to $900 a side) I guess it's just a matter of going with a workshop of good reputation and trusting they use decent components and offer a decent warranty. There's no lift on this car so shouldn't be any extra forces conspiring against the situation.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The repco replacement shafts are about $280 each side.

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