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DIY Sagging rear door fix

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  • #31
    There are slotted holes on the hinge to body part. I just undid the bolts and pushed it all the way to the right. Problem fixed.
    If you have experienced D4D engine failure, please complete this survey ​http://goo.gl/forms/bpJSYjq0Zx
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    • #32
      Did mine yesterday ..... wot a result.... no banging n thud when it shuts..... shud have done it ages ago ... THANKS

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      • #33
        Going to fix my sagging door this weekend but before I do, is it better to adjust using the slotted holes on the body side or use the washer trick?

        I figure the slotted hole fix can and probably will just drop again over time, while the washer trick may be a corrosion problem in years to come.
        Check out our blog documenting our around Australia adventure: [URL="http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/"]http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/[/URL] 07 GXL D4D, Bilstein shocks, Dobinson coils, Red Arc isolator, 105Ah Allrounder dual battery, heavy duty outlet in rear for the CF80 Waeco. Tigerz11 full size rack and awning. GME TX 3100 UHF, Alpine CDE135bt head unit with Steering Wheel controller. Hilux washer jets. Zac Brown Band sticker

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        • #34
          I adjusted using the slotted holes on the top hinge on the body side and it has been fine for a few years now.
          If you have experienced D4D engine failure, please complete this survey ​http://goo.gl/forms/bpJSYjq0Zx
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          • #35
            I've got the sagging door and have been meaning to fix this for a while. Pretty sure, the Gregory's manual states the door is adjustable so I assume it would be ok to do.

            I'll try one and then the other
            [SIZE=2]120 GXL D4D Auto, with a 'List of Wants' greater than the 'List of Needs' greater than the 'List of Haves'
            Nissan Patrol: Keeping Bogan's out of Toyota's since 1951[/SIZE]

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            • #36
              I tried to loosen the body side bolts first to see if i could adjust, got one undone before I decided its easier to do the washers.... Works a treat.

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              • #37
                Yup, did the same thing. Started with the body bolts, went with the washers. Stainless steel mudguard washer, they were the thinnest I could find. Drilled them out with a 12mm bit. Works a treat!
                Check out our blog documenting our around Australia adventure: [URL="http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/"]http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/[/URL] 07 GXL D4D, Bilstein shocks, Dobinson coils, Red Arc isolator, 105Ah Allrounder dual battery, heavy duty outlet in rear for the CF80 Waeco. Tigerz11 full size rack and awning. GME TX 3100 UHF, Alpine CDE135bt head unit with Steering Wheel controller. Hilux washer jets. Zac Brown Band sticker

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                • #38
                  So has anyone worked out if there is a better opening bracket to stop the door over opening and causing damage to the inner and outer skin of the door,I have noticed on the work cars that they have now fitted a stronger strut to the door to stop this sort of damage.

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                  • #39
                    Have a search, there is a strut mod for the 120.
                    [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

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                    • #40
                      Just did my washer fitment today. very simple job and no more scraping noise. A nice solid thud when it closes.

                      cheers
                      2008 V6 GXL Graphite, Sovereign bar, LED spotties, BFG A/T tyres, King Springs on rear with KYB off road shocks, Engel 40lt fridge, Dual batteries, Uniden CB.

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                      • #41
                        Highly recommend adjusting the sag by the top hing as per AMTS post. Had to remove the right tail lamp to get good access to the bolts but that only takes 2 min with a 10mm socket.

                        Next loosen the bolts attaching the top hinge to the car body enough to slide the hinge a little. Found that I need the extra leverage of interlocked ring/open end spanners to crack the bolts loose. Next a little tap on the hinge with the wooden handle end of my hammer to moved it along nicely. You can see when it has moved as you will expose a small section of unpainted body under the hinge. You need to move it to the right to lift the door at the lock. On my first attempt I thought it was a fraction high so loosened off the bolts again and swinging the door towards the closed position slides the top hinge over to the left and then repeat with a couple of taps on the hing to move it just that little bit less this time towards the right.

                        Retighten the bolts and nipped them up with the interlocking ring spanners method for more leverage and then replace the tail lamp.

                        With this method there is no need for jacking the rear door or worry that your washers are not spreading the weight correctly possibly leading to metal fatigue cracking. Dead set simple.

                        Very happy with that closing thud now.
                        2009 120 GXL D4D, TJM Bull Bar, Winch, Safari Snorkel, ARB Lift, ARB Lockers, Black Widow Drawers

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                        • #42
                          Hi, I replaced both hinges. After a couple of weeks I then readjusted as the door dropped slightly.
                          Points to do this safely are :
                          - Remove spare tyre to take weight from door.
                          - Remove tail light two 10mm hd bolts and it unclips straight back with a tug.
                          - I used a small aluminium four leg painter platform and adjusted height with bits of timber.
                          Then you lift and slide under edge of door onto timber.
                          This take door weight and allows you to open close door about 40cm on timber without risk.
                          - Used an off set double ended ring spanner and some square tube as a breaker bar.
                          - Adjusting loosen four top and four bottom hinge bolts on vehicle (not the door). Tap top hinge to the right, nip up one top bolt.
                          Lever bottom hinge to left with large screw driver or small breaker bar. Nip up all bolts, check, then really tighten all bolts.

                          Thong
                          Last edited by thong; 16-07-2016, 09:31 AM. Reason: Error left not right

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                          • #43
                            During a trip up Duck Creek Road some months ago a new sound in the back of the car caught my attention. I would get a 'thump' sound whenever I turned a corner. After some investigation I discovered the rear door hinge lost one of its plastic bushes and the door would move up and down as it shifted under its weight.

                            Fix.

                            New genuine hinges $110.00 each with the potential to have the same issue be it some years down the track.

                            I opted to take mine to an engineering company. Pins removed, new brass bushes made and new pins.

                            Result is a much stronger longer lasting serviceable hinge. Cost was less than genuine (I would rather Graeme priced it for you)

                            Hope this helps others who are after a permanent fix.

                            No affiliation just loved the service, speed and quality of work.

                            GJR Engineering
                            Graeme
                            7 Pendrey Ct, Woodridge QLD 4114
                            (07) 3299 5411


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                            Hazza
                            Last edited by Hazza; 14-11-2016, 05:19 PM.
                            Silver 120 Series Diesel GXL 2009 with Option Pack 2, king Springs 2" Lift with 'H' front spring, MT ATZ 4-RIB, Dual Battery, Deluxe ARB Bull-bar, Winch, Towbar, Anderson 50 amp plug at the rear, Weather Shields, Bonnet and Head Light Protectors, Rubber Mats inc Cargo mat, UHF Ariel, Portable Uniden UHF plugs into areal, On-board ARB Compressor, Brains Black Box TG150 Protector, Rear Black Duck Seat Covers.

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                            • #44
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                              Hazza
                              Silver 120 Series Diesel GXL 2009 with Option Pack 2, king Springs 2" Lift with 'H' front spring, MT ATZ 4-RIB, Dual Battery, Deluxe ARB Bull-bar, Winch, Towbar, Anderson 50 amp plug at the rear, Weather Shields, Bonnet and Head Light Protectors, Rubber Mats inc Cargo mat, UHF Ariel, Portable Uniden UHF plugs into areal, On-board ARB Compressor, Brains Black Box TG150 Protector, Rear Black Duck Seat Covers.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by Hazza View Post
                                [ATTACH=CONFIG]24472[/ATTACH]
                                [ATTACH=CONFIG]24474[/ATTACH]

                                Hazza
                                Hazza, I can't find many who have actually taken the hinges off.

                                I'm keen to replace with new hinges.

                                Do you think it's possible to support weight of door and replace the hinges one at time?

                                I'm not sure I can figure how to get full access to bottom hinge?

                                Is your new pin simply an allen head bold and nylock nut?

                                I'm thinking to replace with new hinges, and if they wear quickly I'll get the old ones rebushed.

                                Cheers

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