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DIY Sagging rear door fix

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  • #46
    Originally posted by woodwormm View Post
    Hazza, I can't find many who have actually taken the hinges off.

    I'm keen to replace with new hinges.

    Do you think it's possible to support weight of door and replace the hinges one at time?

    I'm not sure I can figure how to get full access to bottom hinge?

    Is your new pin simply an allen head bold and nylock nut?

    I'm thinking to replace with new hinges, and if they wear quickly I'll get the old ones rebushed.

    Cheers
    Hi woodwormm,

    Removing or leaving the door on is a two man job either way. If you do leave it on you could support the door then remove the stay and this will allow the door to go back just a little further. Its important to have someone hold the door so it does not swing back and make contact with the body. Access is not an issue, just use a ring spanner (single hex preferably).

    I removed the door as I needed to take the hinges to the engineer shop but must say he had them ready same day.

    When you put them back on just line them up with the paint marks (take your time) and there will be very little if any final adjustment once they are on. I got it almost spot on with just a little adjustment needed at the striker. I tension the bolts on the body.

    Bolts are allen key head with nylock nut making them serviceable although they will see this vehicle out easily.

    Merry Christmas
    Hazza
    Silver 120 Series Diesel GXL 2009 with Option Pack 2, king Springs 2" Lift with 'H' front spring, MT ATZ 4-RIB, Dual Battery, Deluxe ARB Bull-bar, Winch, Towbar, Anderson 50 amp plug at the rear, Weather Shields, Bonnet and Head Light Protectors, Rubber Mats inc Cargo mat, UHF Ariel, Portable Uniden UHF plugs into areal, On-board ARB Compressor, Brains Black Box TG150 Protector, Rear Black Duck Seat Covers.

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    • #47
      I replaced one hinge on mine with genuine from amayama, $38 aud.
      https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=68801-60050

      You can change them without removing the door, just support the door with a block of wood and a jack and get someone to hold the door assy.
      Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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      • #48
        Hi OziOffRoad

        I just found your post and I think it will help me. However, the photo's don't seem to be there anymore. Any chance you could repost them or send them to me? Much appreciated.

        Craig

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        • #49
          The original photos are gone.

          Basically fit washers where the yellow lines are on the bottom hinge.
          If you have experienced D4D engine failure, please complete this survey ​http://goo.gl/forms/bpJSYjq0Zx
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          • #50
            Hi guys, I went the top hinge adjustment as well. Easy as and instant fix. Thanks to all for your help. Cheers.
            [B]02/2007 "Ultra Rare White" 120 Prado D4D M6.[/B]
            Black widow roof rack, Window tint, Airtec snorkel, ARB awning, ARB OutbackSolutions draw system, IPS XS spotlights with driving covers, NewPro-Tech turbo timer, PolyAir springs, TJM XGS Gold suspension inc strut top mounts and 50mm lift, Milford cargo barrier, TJM under body armour.

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            • #51
              Damn! all the photos are now missing!

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              • #52
                Originally posted by chrisozman View Post
                Damn! all the photos are now missing!
                Agreed, anyone have a DIY photo stash to share?

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                • #53
                  This is off another forum but I can confirm it works! I personally used a washer clip as there was not a lot of room to play with.

                  It's a 12mm bolt but if you're using washer clips get an assorted box with bigger sizes so you can clip it over the bolt easily. Key is to get the washer between the hinge and the door, not between the bolt and the hinge.

                  This is the instructions off the other forum courtesy of

                  Originally Posted by Adam Stander https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...post-right.png
                  Loosen the bottom bolts only, do not remove the door. It's heavier than you think.
                  Loosen both bottom bolts until you have a few mm play, then wedge something under the far end of door to lift it.
                  Remove 1 bolt, fit washer then replace the bolt.
                  Remove 2nd bolt, fit washer and replace bolt.
                  Remove the wedge from door and tighten bolts.

                  Because the hinge turns 90deg the washers move the lock upwards when in closed position and nothing more.

                  Makes no difference to the seals at all.

                  I used SS washers if I remember correctly so that there shouldn't be any rust issues.

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                  • #54
                    whole process took about 10 minutes all up. Forgot to mention I had a second person help me with manipulating the door a bit and used an adjustable spanner to get the lower bolts off initially.

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                    • #55
                      I did the exact same thing and it fixed it. Did it all by myself self though on a whim one afternoon after work no probs. Just used a height adjustable kitchen stool under the door to support it.
                      Prior to the fix the door was creaking really bad over every little bump & dip in the road. After the fix months ago the door’s been silent.
                      Last edited by Brett1979; 27-02-2020, 06:06 PM.
                      2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                      • #56
                        Soundscape like it’s worth a try even with the cracked door seam, others here say it has worked. EDIT with the cracked door weld I used 3 washers, 2 of M12mm and 1 of M10 x 30mm to spread load, raised about 7mm no worries.

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