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DIY Sagging rear door fix

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  • Looch
    replied
    Soundscape like it’s worth a try even with the cracked door seam, others here say it has worked. EDIT with the cracked door weld I used 3 washers, 2 of M12mm and 1 of M10 x 30mm to spread load, raised about 7mm no worries.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brett1979
    replied
    I did the exact same thing and it fixed it. Did it all by myself self though on a whim one afternoon after work no probs. Just used a height adjustable kitchen stool under the door to support it.
    Prior to the fix the door was creaking really bad over every little bump & dip in the road. After the fix months ago the door’s been silent.
    Last edited by Brett1979; 27-02-2020, 06:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Caliente
    replied
    whole process took about 10 minutes all up. Forgot to mention I had a second person help me with manipulating the door a bit and used an adjustable spanner to get the lower bolts off initially.

    Leave a comment:


  • Caliente
    replied
    This is off another forum but I can confirm it works! I personally used a washer clip as there was not a lot of room to play with.

    It's a 12mm bolt but if you're using washer clips get an assorted box with bigger sizes so you can clip it over the bolt easily. Key is to get the washer between the hinge and the door, not between the bolt and the hinge.

    This is the instructions off the other forum courtesy of

    Originally Posted by Adam Stander https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...post-right.png
    Loosen the bottom bolts only, do not remove the door. It's heavier than you think.
    Loosen both bottom bolts until you have a few mm play, then wedge something under the far end of door to lift it.
    Remove 1 bolt, fit washer then replace the bolt.
    Remove 2nd bolt, fit washer and replace bolt.
    Remove the wedge from door and tighten bolts.

    Because the hinge turns 90deg the washers move the lock upwards when in closed position and nothing more.

    Makes no difference to the seals at all.

    I used SS washers if I remember correctly so that there shouldn't be any rust issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • HotChips
    replied
    Originally posted by chrisozman View Post
    Damn! all the photos are now missing!
    Agreed, anyone have a DIY photo stash to share?

    Leave a comment:


  • chrisozman
    replied
    Damn! all the photos are now missing!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dmines
    replied
    Hi guys, I went the top hinge adjustment as well. Easy as and instant fix. Thanks to all for your help. Cheers.

    Leave a comment:


  • amts
    replied
    The original photos are gone.

    Basically fit washers where the yellow lines are on the bottom hinge.

    Leave a comment:


  • craig.hunter
    replied
    Hi OziOffRoad

    I just found your post and I think it will help me. However, the photo's don't seem to be there anymore. Any chance you could repost them or send them to me? Much appreciated.

    Craig

    Leave a comment:


  • adrian5800
    replied
    I replaced one hinge on mine with genuine from amayama, $38 aud.
    https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=68801-60050

    You can change them without removing the door, just support the door with a block of wood and a jack and get someone to hold the door assy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hazza
    replied
    Originally posted by woodwormm View Post
    Hazza, I can't find many who have actually taken the hinges off.

    I'm keen to replace with new hinges.

    Do you think it's possible to support weight of door and replace the hinges one at time?

    I'm not sure I can figure how to get full access to bottom hinge?

    Is your new pin simply an allen head bold and nylock nut?

    I'm thinking to replace with new hinges, and if they wear quickly I'll get the old ones rebushed.

    Cheers
    Hi woodwormm,

    Removing or leaving the door on is a two man job either way. If you do leave it on you could support the door then remove the stay and this will allow the door to go back just a little further. Its important to have someone hold the door so it does not swing back and make contact with the body. Access is not an issue, just use a ring spanner (single hex preferably).

    I removed the door as I needed to take the hinges to the engineer shop but must say he had them ready same day.

    When you put them back on just line them up with the paint marks (take your time) and there will be very little if any final adjustment once they are on. I got it almost spot on with just a little adjustment needed at the striker. I tension the bolts on the body.

    Bolts are allen key head with nylock nut making them serviceable although they will see this vehicle out easily.

    Merry Christmas
    Hazza

    Leave a comment:


  • woodwormm
    replied
    Originally posted by Hazza View Post
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]24472[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]24474[/ATTACH]

    Hazza
    Hazza, I can't find many who have actually taken the hinges off.

    I'm keen to replace with new hinges.

    Do you think it's possible to support weight of door and replace the hinges one at time?

    I'm not sure I can figure how to get full access to bottom hinge?

    Is your new pin simply an allen head bold and nylock nut?

    I'm thinking to replace with new hinges, and if they wear quickly I'll get the old ones rebushed.

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Hazza
    replied
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    Hazza

    Leave a comment:


  • Hazza
    replied
    During a trip up Duck Creek Road some months ago a new sound in the back of the car caught my attention. I would get a 'thump' sound whenever I turned a corner. After some investigation I discovered the rear door hinge lost one of its plastic bushes and the door would move up and down as it shifted under its weight.

    Fix.

    New genuine hinges $110.00 each with the potential to have the same issue be it some years down the track.

    I opted to take mine to an engineering company. Pins removed, new brass bushes made and new pins.

    Result is a much stronger longer lasting serviceable hinge. Cost was less than genuine (I would rather Graeme priced it for you)

    Hope this helps others who are after a permanent fix.

    No affiliation just loved the service, speed and quality of work.

    GJR Engineering
    Graeme
    7 Pendrey Ct, Woodridge QLD 4114
    (07) 3299 5411


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    Hazza
    Last edited by Hazza; 14-11-2016, 05:19 PM.

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  • thong
    replied
    Hi, I replaced both hinges. After a couple of weeks I then readjusted as the door dropped slightly.
    Points to do this safely are :
    - Remove spare tyre to take weight from door.
    - Remove tail light two 10mm hd bolts and it unclips straight back with a tug.
    - I used a small aluminium four leg painter platform and adjusted height with bits of timber.
    Then you lift and slide under edge of door onto timber.
    This take door weight and allows you to open close door about 40cm on timber without risk.
    - Used an off set double ended ring spanner and some square tube as a breaker bar.
    - Adjusting loosen four top and four bottom hinge bolts on vehicle (not the door). Tap top hinge to the right, nip up one top bolt.
    Lever bottom hinge to left with large screw driver or small breaker bar. Nip up all bolts, check, then really tighten all bolts.

    Thong
    Last edited by thong; 16-07-2016, 09:31 AM. Reason: Error left not right

    Leave a comment:

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